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Roger440

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Everything posted by Roger440

  1. Where it is in every cold roof? On the top. This is what the internet says is a cold roof. And what i currently have. Like this
  2. So my only option and hope for the best on ventilation flow (below) Or 200mm composite steel panels. AI calculates i can just about do it on the span. Needs a real SE to check though. this isnt helping the OP though.
  3. My structural deck is IN the insulation. So i cant see its a cold roof. Acedemic though. Still cant see why an internal VCL wont work. Thats what they are for. Cold roof. As you observe, far from ideal. Not going to have much ventilation space either once i have adequate insulation. Will need at least 200mm PIR given the joists in there. The roof is attached to a wall on 2 sides, (walls in L shape) protected from the prevailing wind. So ventilation might not even work. What does everyone else do i wonder?
  4. Though ive abandoned my self build aspirations, i spent a lot of time pondering. If you are actually going to do it yourself, masonary or timber frame. That was my conclusion. Does knocking down and rebuilding make economic sense? Id do it tommorow if i could, but the "non-building costs" and planning issues kill it completely.
  5. How can you do ICF yourself. Not going to do the concrete!
  6. Depends if the land is valuable. Id build a bungalow tommorow if i could. But my land is near worthless........... Oh, and one day we will be old and infirm
  7. Hmmm. But its not a cold roof is it? Given the depth constraints, i cant achieve the required u value with either cold or conventional warm roof. Although cold roof is moot as i cant get cross ventilation. And whats there now, albeit with no insulation at all. I reckon i can deal with most of your points except settlement. Timber shrinkage can be mitigated with gapotape or similar. Im not going to let your average builder loose on it. Im quite capable of a high standard of detailing. As you observe, the problem is moisture getting through. Surely then, the solution is not to let it through. What to do? Ive got 300mm. Thats it.
  8. Did that. Made no difference whatsoever. Added a vcl internally as well. Still no change. If moisture cant get in, how can it degrade?
  9. Yes, of course. That would be felt, grp or epdm etc. Just playing with ideas at this stage,
  10. Yes, i know i need a vapour barrier. But surely, between the plaster board and first layer of PIR. Yes, clearly if there are gaps etc, that would be an issue. As id be building it myself, i can make sure thats not the case. Problem is, ive got circa 300mm and need to use 200mm (ish) joists.
  11. At the risk of hijack................. I know this is percived wisdom, but ive only got 300m total height to worrk with so a conventional warm roof wont work. I put my proposed design into ubakus.de and it says all is well. What am i missing?
  12. At the topof the wall i presume you mran?
  13. Thanks. That makes sense. So, as i suspected there still needs to be a mechanical fan somewhere. Interesting though. Until i see where i get to with air tightness, cant really make any decisions.
  14. Thanks. All the blurb i can fins suggests there needs to be a fan somewhere, you a PIV for them to work. But it seems they are a mystery product, theres just no info beyond the basic website description. Im attracted to the concept as, essentially theres nothing to go wrong, and doesnt use any power. Which seems too good to be true. And we all know what that normally means!
  15. Just be aware post october 23, much has been tightened up in BCO land. They do now bear at least a small amount of responsibility for what they sign off, where, previously, they didnt. You may find they now want "evidence" from a qualified professional to support your assertions, even though your proposals are pretty conventional. That means paying for reports, such as WUFI, for example. But they might not. No way of knowing until they are involved. I know what id do, but thats very different to Redbeard. Clearly he has encounterd sensible BCO's to date. Do let us know how you get on though. Ill be doing similar in another year or so.
  16. Where are the battery costs in your numbers?
  17. Its far from clear how these work. Google not much help either. What causes the air to move when they are open, as it says you need 20ps air pressure difference?
  18. Starting from a position of no heating yes. Doesnt add up if you have a nearly new gas system already. Obviously if you go DIY as you have done, then that skews the figures, but for most, who are just paying, (probably grossly inflated prices) its makes no economic sense. Just wait for the boiler to die, then do it. Im in the same position, albeit with oil. And i would DIY it. But it still makes no economic sense. I have some re-cofiguring of the heating to do, so i will provision for an ASHP. But i wont be fitting one until i have to or the economics swing in its favour.
  19. Thats interesting. I need to buy more for my workshop. The previous part i did in 100mm (seconds) with 100 x 50 battens. Was going to do 50 +50 this time to reduce the bridging effect of the battens. Though the saving on timber by using 50x50 studs might offset the PIR increase? Plus of course depends what seconds and Co have available at the time.
  20. Ed on another tangent. So, Rachel says they are getting rid of the ECO4 scheme to reduce bills, and Ed says he is going to load gas with extra cost and increase them. Left hand and right hand and all that. Not that it stacks up anyway, as 13bn, is less than £500 per household. Thats not going to buy you much, and certainly not at grossly inflated grant harvesting prices. Maybe it just for labour party members or some other select group?
  21. As others have said, you have not indicated your motivations. So rather a difficult question to answer. As you ask, id just leave it until it breaks. Put the money you would have spent to good use elsewhere.
  22. Where is this cheap PIR you speak of?
  23. Ive found this very difficult to use on the thicker boards. PIR at least. Works great at 50mm. Useless at 100mm. Better off with a cheap normal saw.
  24. It is the lack of clarity, and ultimately, the judgement of the BCO, that i would not involve then unless its unavoidable. If BCO doesnt agree, tough on you. There is no "appeal" process even if they are wrong. On some of the old house groups, theres been a couple of people running into quite some difficulty with BCO's that seem to be unwilling to relax standards based on it being an older building etc etc. Which the clause that Redbeard highlights specifically allows for. But if the BCO says no, then its no. To the point that one person couldnt insulate his roof to current standard, the BCO just said replace the entire roof structure so you can. All while roof is stripped. Sadly, as the old school BCO's retire and the new breed of box tickers comes in, i cant see it getting any better. OP, hope yours goes smoothly.
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