SteamyTea

Welcome. Have you considered buying an app costing house, on a plot you like, then knock down and rebuild. I think most on here would not claim that it is cheaper to self build. That does depend on the plot a lot i.e. services, surveys, restrictions. I always think of Gloucestershire as the Midlands, but then I am in the proper west country.

“This will be front and centre of our Warm Homes Plan, as we work to make sure no households are let down in this way again,” Yeah right.

I am sure I have asked this before, why a CO2 detector? CO is the killer. CO2 sensors need permanent calibration, so not that reliable in reality.

Have you redone a room by room heat loss calculations? Do you know the pipe spacings in each room? Do you know the levels of insulation under the UFH in each room/zone?

At 6m away, just run a bit of bell wire to a simple sensor.

Does this room have a lot of glazing, draughts and thermally poor walls, floor and ceilings?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Daewoo-Ceramic-Settings-Portable-Indicator/dp/B0CNKJPY7Z

That does not mean it is safe to drink though. Aluminium sulphate is added to water to make it clear. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camelford_water_pollution_incident

That is a key motivation for me. This is wrong though isn't it and mainly to do with out old infrastructure designs. I have no idea if more modern designs are implemented i.e. rain water run off is piped separately from grey water. If it was, it would be a huge benefit down here.

So you pay about £52/year standing charge, I pay £106 Your water is £1.96/m3, mine £2.07/m3 Waste Water £2.46/m3, mine £3.32/m3 So going to be similar to what I have been paying for decades.

I was going to suggest this as it would be interesting to see what the relative differences in heat loss and efficiency between the two system actually is. I was going to experiment this year with just using the top heating element in my 200 lt cylinder, but decided to not use my two storage heaters instead. May have to wait till summer for that experiment (I was forced into doing it once when the bottom element went and seem to remember that it worked OK with regards volume of water heated).

Or just size your generator/storage combination for your lowest possible usage on the worse weather day, plus 10% safety margin. So say you normally need 20 kWh/day electrical power, but on the coldest/darkest/windiest days you need 24 kWh/day. That is a mean power of 1 kW. The smallest practical generator is really about 5 kW (not talking portable ones here). But you do not want to be running a generator all day at 1/5th power as that is probably not that efficient. 2/3rd max power, or 3.3 kW may be better. If you need 24 kWh plus 10% system losses for the worse days, you only need to run the generator for a total if 8 hours. Your battery storage would need to be 17.4 kWh. If you run the generator during peak daylight, i.e. 8AM to 4PM, and solar production will either charge batteries or be diverted to other household loads. So not wasted. These numbers will need adjusting to actual usage predictions, and battery life estimates (charge between 20 and 80% SoC), but you get the idea.

Stable crystals then.

So do we know how the elements 30 (Zinc), 46 (Palladium), 48 (Cadmium) and 49 (Indium) all work together to control the phase changing?

All the scum rises to the top though.

Yes. Radio 4: How to read the news https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m001v3f3

Set the thermostat to 14°C. When I lived in Aylesbury, I only felt the need to have one holiday. Can't think of a better place to spend a week.

I worked for someone that lived just off the road to 'The Hall'. He was a crook as well.

Where abouts? That's where I grew up as a boy Where Robert Maxwell had a cheap council house.

I did not even notice it when I parked right next to it.

Can you find the k-value of the materials the blocks are made from? Failing that, what thickness are the blocks, then it is possible to calculate the thermal resistance of the wall build up. I am not 100% sure, maybe @Gus Potter can clarify, but I think the N number is the compression strength (number of newtons) and different block types may behave differently when drilling and screwing into them.

Saw the metal man earlier. The first column is the element, second the percentage and third is the uncertainty.

This could cause a problem for the building fabric. Sometimes a group of hot sweaty teenagers dancing, other times the yoga group not breathing properly, then there will be the village shindig with spilt beer, and worse of all the WI, who will never let on what they get up to. Could cause a lot of condensation problems.

Except that radiation is an inverse square law, so power diminished rapidly with distance. Would make the planet Earth rather warm if it was just slightly different on the physics.

Mean temperatures, and these can also be mean lowest temperatures, tend to follow a normal distribution. You can see if you have a local Met Office weather station nearby here. What you need to know is the base temperature you need to start heating at, for me that is around 9°C OAT (Outside Air Temperature), then look at the fraction of time (there are 8760 hours in a standard year) that your heating needs to be on. Then, this is getting more complicated, what power you need at the specific ΔT (temperature difference between inside and outside) to hold the inside temperature i.e. 100W.K-1. And now to make it much more complicated, you need to know what power the ASHP can deliver at those OATS. And this is the real hard bit, what the CoP (coefficient of performance of the heat pump will be at those temperatures). Then it is easy to sum the lot up and you know the energy used, the CoP and therefore the bought in energy price. DHW (domestic hot water) is an add on and needs to be treated as such, space heating and DHW are different things, and different times and at different temperatures. So some allowance needs to be made for the time that your DHW is being recharged, with that time subtracted from the space heating times i.e. you cannot use the 24 hour average power delivery for space heating as your DHW may need 2 or 3 hours of that 24 hours, so that ups the power that needs to be delivered to the space heating by around 10%. Initially you need to make some assumptions. These can usually be calculated from your existing usage for DHW.