SteamyTea

Power = Head x Flow x Gravity

You need to look at pico hydro systems. If you want to help run your ASHP, then you will need an approved inverter, and notify your DNO about the new installation. Be easier to run it direct into a resistance heater though. The bigger you can get the drop from the pond to the generator the better. Let gravity do the work. May be worth you getting this book. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renewable-Energy-Power-Sustainable-Future/dp/0199261784

When my Father was a teenager, his family home burnt down. They got rehoused, but the original house was not rebuilt for decades. A more resent fire down here in a pub kitchen, which damaged the living area of the building was not paid out for by the insurance company. The reason given was that the tenant landlord had not declared that he had been bankrupt a few years earlier. So live is never simple.

Not really. It is more efficiency to run DC over longer distance for any given cable size. So just a matter of doing the sums. There was a guy, from the other place, that lives near to me. He had a ground mounted array that ran DC a good 50 metres on the standard 4mm2 cable. It worked fine.

Could be because the risk is human life/injuries and not the actual building.

Yes, the 1300 was, not sure what I was thinking off. Still, most run on CP tyres. Can you still buy crossplys?

That is because the MM weighed little, was RWD, and ran on crossplys. If you remember, Formula 1 only started using radials in the late 1980s or early 1990s, can't quite remember when. It is one reason that they could easily run a race distance on a set.

Yes it would. All it does is take some basic material properties, some basic air change numbers (no idea what MVHR would do to it), then from internal and external temperature distributions differences (which are pretty normal around the mean), pro ratas the amount of energy needed to keep it at a steady temperature (the actual mean internal temperature). One problem is that where I live, there is relatively little deviation from the mean, not like places like Canada (saw pictures today of where I was a couple of years back, seems to have improved Halifax). I like this approach as good weather data is easy to get hold off, good building data is not.

I am still impressed that my simple model that I knocked up this morning is very close. Makes me wonder if a statistical approach is best. But then I would say that as I like statistics. I may have to test it against a smaller dataset of temperatures, the one I used was pretty large, 42,000 datapoints. I may have to put some test equipment into my Mother's house next time I am up. Her kitchen is almost the size of my house, and it is made of bricks. Could be interesting.

In parallel, be rather high voltage otherwise. Not sure I understand the question. Test for what?

Timber frame is better. Goes back to something I said a few years ago. I had a hunch that brick/block/concrete house would be naturally cooler and need more heating. They also do not benefit from being significantly cooler in hot weather. To get that benefit, they need to be very large and have even more mass (think wine cellars). Then you pay for that in the winter by needing more heating.

For a laugh, and to possibly finish this off, I did a small model of my house today. Knowing the size of it, how much energy I use, the temperature differences, and importantly, the distribution of those temperature differences, and the mass of my storage heater, I can get a good match. I also took into account air changes per hour, which is an untested unknown, so I assumed 1 ACH. The really interesting thing is that the net heating load on the house is 60 times larger than the air heating load. So it costs a lot to heat up a slab and keep it stable. The other interesting thing (well to me) is that the cooling load would be about half the heating load (not that I cool, I just open a window). So I am quite happy considering that my house is 32 years old, is nothing special, is in a warmer than average part of the country, and is timber framed.

I think so, the soap is still on the rims, and I did not need the wheel changed.

86 quid this year. They will last 25,000 miles whether they like it or not.

I need two new tyres, last year they were 88 quid, fitted, that is for two of them. Shall see what they want this year. Got a bent rim, so may need a new wheel.

Does your roof have a shading issue?

You can't, only because I say you can't. So you are wrong.

So they took a different view on the PassivHaus standard. Can start to see where it all went wrong.

That's OK, going to be up your way next month, so shall come and take my share of it.

I am paying for that. Sorry, could not resist.

feet What it is called is irrelevant. So shall call it 1.8288 metres

Scout around to find the best prices of either a complete kit, or individual parts, then ask your builder/plumber/electrician how much to fit. There is scope to save on roofing, they don't have to be bolted on top on a frame, they can be integrated. When I was working for a PV company, out two biggest expenses where sales commission and scaffolding. You don't need one of them and the other you will have on site.

Is that because you got estimates for retrofitting, rather than fitting during the build?

I am not going to get too deep into this, but when I went to Jeremy's house while he was building it, the one thing that amazed me, more than anything else, is that it was very quiet. It had none of that echo that half finished houses have. If internal walls were constructed similar to the external ones, then sound transmission may not be a problem. Worth investigating I think.

Isn't that 6 foot