SteamyTea

And Nessie is an eel that appears after drinking.

That may well be a bad thing.

I have some ESP8266s kicking about, they should do it too, and can have other sensors on them. May have to get my box of winter projects out. Thinking about the ceramic element, the SHC is not too great. Polyurethane is a lot higher, and easy to mould into interesting shapes. The I value is about half of ceramic, but that just means it takes twice as long to warm up and cool down, but at such a small scale, it is pretty irrelevant.

Yes, but not in a 4 inch, or 6 inch, pipe though the wall. I prefer Ed's comment These days it can be done pretty reliably wirelessly I think. Make them as matched pairs.

Let's put a stop to that then, say what you really think.

If you are sucking water up, is there a possibility that the pipe will crush if there is no water in it? Kind of thing that a small buckle would cause. Was it not W C Fields that said "Fish make love it and little boys do worse'

Does it stop becoming potable water if it goes into a vented tank?

I was wondering this too. The unit may have a respectable efficiency in isolation, but in practice it may not be that great. I do like the simplicity of the design, and easy to make one at home. It would also make fitting one easy.

Just been over to Wadebridge to the Self Distruction show (not worth the 4 quid to get in) and looked at a single room, through the wall, MVHR unit. Seemed to be a simple, reversible direction, fan with a not to intricately shaped ceramic element in a pipe. The idea is that it sucks air out the room, heats the china up, then reversed the airflow, drawing in cool air, that then extracts the heat out the crockery. I am sure, in the dim and distant past, we have collectively discussed these, but can't remember what the outcome was. Anyone know anything about them?

Cpd or OCD?

With the correct type screws it is not a problem. Ordinary wood screws probably cannot be used. Nails are used because the offer a better strength for a given diameter, are faster to inserts, and are cheaper. And then there are bolts, which is probably what you really mean.

That would only make a few seconds time difference surely.

I have a better one. I would change it, but my hands are full.

Whenever I type buildhub into my browser it seems to change the first few letters. I still remember @Construction Channel putting up a modified logo and seeing the replies that it was familiar. Still think it looked like Halfords. Lucky saddle. Now I think I shall search for grooming services.

If just comparing stored DHW against an instantaneous system, then it really just comes down to standing thermal losses and installation costs. I personally like DHW to be stored for when I want it, but if I could run a 20 kW instantaneous boiler, I suspect I would get the same shower experience.

Best, and probably the quickest way to find out, us to do some tests, now is a good time as it is not too cold. Should be able, over the next week, to find out how long it takes to increase the house temp by 1, 2, 3, and 4 K. And how much is lost during the night. This does take a bit of effort, but it will give you both the heating and cooling curves. From them you can calculate just about everything. Easier if you have a simple data logger, but a kitchen timer and a thermometer are good enough.

I was having a cuppa after one of my medium length walks yesterday. There was a couple of 'Yummy Mummies' and there just adorably dressed offspring. One was complaining that that the disposable compostable cups did not actually compost in her bin. Apparently it was something to do with 'needing a high temperature'. Back at the car park, I noticed them safely strapping in the children. One had a RangeRover, the other a Jeep. Probably lived next to each other too. Look up your CO2/mile emissions and multiply by your mileage. Then do a VW, except that was NOX.

Doubt you would get that volume though a normal CH system either.

Get a bigger system and I shall carry on driving my old car.

Yes And my house uses very little.

I still think it is just marketing language. 100 litres of water costs me about 80 pence.

Not sure what car you drive but my car generates about 4.5 tonnes of CO2 per year, my house about 2 tonnes. (car 165g/mile and electricity 400g/kWh)

Why is it called a 'power flush'. Surely this is just bigging up a system flush. I have a small electric drill, but it is hardly a power tool, it only has 500W of power.

Why not fit the boiler to externally in a suitable wind and weather proof box?

Re the CO sensor issue with gas boilers, it is a pity that it is not mandated that the boiler is fitted with one at manufacture. Then a warning for when it needs changing, and auto-shutdown if it throws a fault or goes too long unchanged. Now I know that some people will find a way around it, but most wont. CO sensors are cheap, as is a logic control, so why is it not done. Cars have a lot more safety systems that run reliably for years, and cars a re cheaper than they have ever been (in real terms, not individual terms). While they are at it, they could mandate that all electrical meters have an isolator too. Another simple thing to improve safety.