SteamyTea

That name comes up too often down here. I have not met anyone that has actually used them. Do you really think you need an Architect, a few on here have not used them.

Must be a Bristol term.

When I did my survey course at university, I think they said OS tried to get an accuracy of 3mm either way.

Probably caused by the 'thermal mass', you know, that thing that keeps the house at the right temperature, at the right time, and saves everyone money. Probably cures illness and poverty as well.

Think I typed E for energy, not P for power. Remove the time and you get power. (I think, out at moment so only half a brain on it)

Make up some breathable 'sausages' from garden weed control fabric, fill with mineral wool insulation, then staple to rafters.

No idea. But it could be the inbuilt software misreporting. How much charge did the SA accept, 3 kWh?

I seem to remember reading something like that. But they will not be able to do much with a solid.

This

Let's hope not, could have long term ramifications for whoever shot blasted it.

Think we have a thread on it somewhere. It may sense the fusion temperature, plus and minus a degree or two. Which may account for it not being able to be charged up untill it is 75% depleted. That bottom 25% may be the energy it can take when the magic wax is fused.

Do an Open University BSc in Physics and Mathematics. And another one in Law.

Insulate the cupboard, not the cylinder. Then pipe out the warm, damp air with the MVHR. Or buy a washing line for a quid at Poundland. You are at home most days.

Calculate the total energy losses over a year. U-Value is power loss, not the same thing.

Exactly. But it is not that hard to reduce the losses. Just make the area it is in airtight and well insulated. I use a combination of sheet PU and mineral wool (to fill in the gaps). I posted up my DHW temp profile somewhere else. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/uploads/monthly_2021_05/image.png.587b8c485e11d47456cbb9cbf007e46f.png

Cheap and easy to I stall, especially a vented system. Reliable, but also easy to fix (vented as you can diy it). Controllable temperature, can be just about anything you like between just over 0⁰C and under 100⁰ C (okay that is silly, but usable between 35⁰C and 65⁰C). If vented and pumped, flow rates of your choice. Can have multiple thermal and electrical energy inputs. You get an airing cupboard. I am sure there are others. Downside is size and standing losses if installed without consideration to thermal losses.

Only a flow meter and a couple of temp sensors. Then: E = SHC x Mass Flow Rate x Time x ∆T. Calculate that number, then turn on the inbuilt heater for the appropriate amount of time. Or junk the overpriced lump and fit a basic vented or unvented system. You can easily store excess energy by upping the store temp when the sun is shining (though you may export more PV the next day).

Put in 250mm. What you want to do is reduce the losses to 0.1 to 0.15 W/m².K. As the floor going to be warmer that the air in the room, you have to calculate on a greater ∆T. Ignore building regulations and get your U-Values and air change per hour figures as low as possible. And remember that your floor and loft areas are probably your greatest areas, so they have the greatest overall losses. Don't fret over a door or window that has a 0.05 difference. The areas are too small to make a measurable difference.

Why we should use the MJ, megajoule, as a unit of energy.

kW is the power, kWh is the energy. Think of it as how fast your car can go, and how much fuel is in the tank. They are different things.

No you don't. The main reason it cannot tell you how much is left inside, is because it does not know. A normal storage cylinder could just use 3 or 4 temperature sensors at different heights and a simple calculation based on those temperature differences. A Sunamp basically only has one temperature, the phase change temperature. You could put a heat meter on it, then ditch the crappy built in controller, and just pump in the appropriate amount of energy.

Could knock up something similar with angle iron and a very cheap welder.

Same here. Only viable long term covering.

Drive and half shafts. Kind of defeats the purpose of them. Strange some how people like modern kit in a house, but want to own a 70 year old design crap car.

To translate a compound noun to English, because they are: Posycrapunreliablecostlyuncomfortabledreadfulwasteofspace. Easier to say they are just shit. You can tow with a normal car. I towed a 22 foot spa bath to Gibraltar, behind a 309 diesel.