SteamyTea

Umm. What are the SI derived units for this?

The efficiency does not drop that much. E7 night rate is generally a shade under half the daytime rate, your CoP would therefore have to halve.

MCS have this about ground pipe lengths. http://www.gshp.org.uk/pdf/MIS_3005_Ground_loop_sizing_tables.pdf Personally I think an ASHP, correctly designed and installed, won't be a problem, but worth looking at other options and balancing them all up. Still trying to get my head around this.

Again, like an ASHP, properly designed, sized and installed, freezing is not a problem. (ground heave is usually because the pipes are too short and too shallow)

As odd as this may sound, if you are 'digging trenches', have you considered a GSHP. The actual unit does not have to be in the house, can be in a brick box or similar.

Have you done a room by room heat loss calculation for the space heating (if it is doing that). Seems a 500 litre buffer is rather large.

Was hoping to make an MVHR balancer, an air test gauge and general interest. My one experiment failed, but I think that was more to do with the poor design of the venturi.

I was hoping to make a differential pressure gauge, but got sidelined. When I am forced to stay at home I shall pick the project back up again.

Make sure you don't leave the water tank full in winter. My sister did, if froze, then split, and sunk her boat.

Let me know how you get on. I have used some BME280s, they work well, but are obviously not for a wet location. Just wish they were packaged better.

You will not get intersessional storage, maybe a few hours at best. Yo can do the calculations easy enough. This makes a difference with UFH, the temperature difference is greater between the floor and the ground, than it is with a radiator based system. It is why it is called Under Floor Heating, and not Pointy Up Heating.

There is hydrogen embrittlement as well. Anything iron based has to be changed. On a more general note, and I keep hearing this 'ASHPs only work in a well insulated, airtight house'. This is nonsense, fit the wrong size heating system to an house and it will not be optimal. The cash cost may be an issue, but that is mainly because we are not paying the existential costs combustion technology.

Mine didn't, the sound card kept failing, Sony never got it sorted.

That is a bit pricy. Worth more than the house.

Coleman make a fridge that runs on gas or 12V. Worth having a look.

I took a punt on them, but the serial numbers checked out ok. I am not a good a good enough programmer to write a python scripts that can automatically insert the serial number into the scripts, so do it manually anyway.

Rules of Curling Teams of four take it in turns to curl two rocks towards the target area with the scores being counted after all 16 rocks have been sent down the ice. International matches have a time limit of 73 minutes per side with two timeouts lasting a minute each. 10 minutes and one timeout are permitted per extra end in the event of a tie. The stone must be released its front edge crosses a line called the hog. Foul throws are removed from the ice before they have come to rest or in contact with other rocks. Sweeping may be done by two members of the team up to the tee line, whilst after that point only one player can brush. After the tee one player from the opposing side may also sweep A stone touched or moved when in play by a player or their broom will either be replaced or removed depending on the situation. The team to go first is decided by coin toss, “draw-to-the-button” contest or, in Olympic competition using win-loss records. Subsequently the team that failed to score in the previous end has the advantage of going last, called the hammer throw. A team may concede if they feel they cannot win, although depending on the event and stage of event they may have to wait until a certain number of ends have been completed. Fair play is of huge importance so there is a culture of self-refereeing with regards fouls and this is a big part of curling.

Electricians on an hourly rate.

Not Desperate Dan.

Or a proper one in Cornwall, Ontario, Canada.

Have you done some room by room heat loss calculations? Takes a lot of the guess work out of it, and not as messy as plumbing.

A town in Uruguay.

That is why we now have safe zones.

The electrician that wired my house, put the light switches a few metres from the external door that is used the most. Makes me wonder what goes on in peoples heads.

When you look at some thing that were done 'in the olden days', it makes me wonder what they were thinking. Socket and light switches are one of them. Why would anyone put sockets so low to the ground. An extra couple of feet of cable has never been that expensive.