SteamyTea

If delivered by drone, what is the returns policy?

Similar to the early failure rate then. VIP are not really a product for buildings.

Yes, it will fit in the boot of a VW Passat TDi.

https://www.hetas.co.uk/enforcement-action-taken-against-major-uk-stove-manufacturer/

Your problem is going to be finding an adhesive that is both strong enough and 'invisible' enough. Epoxy or a clear, non foaming, PU is probably your best bet. To hold it in place, while the adhesive sets, can you make a small wedge that can be hammered into the stringer.

We had a delivery a couple of days ago, 150 scaffold planks. No one on site (not a building site) knew anything about it. The delivery driver was very patient. I told him to unload it with his crane. He got his stabilisers out, was about to lift, then a change of plan. Ended up with the two of if us lifting 2 planks at a time into a shed. He was cheerful right though it (I still ache). That was worth a premium. @bmj1 Are you thinking of a physical store with a good online presence, or an Amazon/eBay type model?

Plug a cable in and hook it up.

Same (PM on R4?). Maybe the reason that they are pulling out is that they know the link between gas prices and electricity prices may be broken, taking away the ridiculous situation that pays some wind farm developers, what is in effect, a bonus. There may be secondary reasons like grid connection (time and cost). As an aside, as I drive up the M5 near Hinkley Point, I see the new pylons that have been installed, I wonder how many people objected to the erection of them and how it has ruined the view of the pristine countryside.

Don't actually tell them, just design to a similar standard. Try designing a car (what I first studied). I work as a chef, no formal qualifications in it, just over 40 years of doing it when I can't be arsed to do a better job. Being a chef is no different than cooking at home, apart from scale and pace (and most people can't cook at home and talk a lot of bollocks about it, thinking that spending extra money on equipment makes a difference). I trained hard as an automotive engineer, then retrained in the renewable energy field, then environmental science. But you only have to read on here how many spats I get into against others opinion. So take my opinion about house design as you like, from an engineering perspective, they are pretty easy, and if you go into most houses, it is hard to believe that anyone with any training has ever tried to live in their creations.

Only on insulation thickness. I suspect that over the last 3 years many people wish they had an extra 100mm of insulation fitted. Infiltration is linear, wall to glazing ratio is probably linear (may model that to find out). Form is important, as are the thermal bridges. Passuvhaus ovesells basic thermal design, almist as much as the 'lifestyle', to the extent that they give the impression to customers that they wrote the 4 Laws of Thermodynamics (only 2 of them are relevant normally).

Has the SE specified adhesive as well as bolting? As for getting them straight and level, much will depend with what you start with. Even a relatively short but of timber will be unlikely to be 'flat' in both planes. Once clamped together (bolts clamp, screws don't), they are highly likely to twist. Are Posi-Joist type joist an option, they are usually made in a jig and the metal webs are more stable.

@Pocster shrivels to a walnut when he is not in the West Undies blazing sunshine.

TL:DR Being a house designer is nothing special, though some are better than others. A few hours reading in here will show up two problems pretty quickly. 1. Architects don't understand thermal performance, though there may be the odd one that does. 2. They cannot manage all the trades needed. So if you want a USP. Design to Passivhaus standard, or better, without adding a premium. Get a big list of good, reliable and tidy trades that can work together.

As long as we don't get Reform involved, we can be as diverse as we like.

No, just realised that you could download porn via the internet, on demand. Oh how I miss dialing up a Nigerian number on my old 9600 baud modem.

Looks like a Sunyboy 3.6 kW model. Do you tap on the display to make it light up. Many of the SBs had Bluetooth built in. TL in the SB range stood for transformerless. See if the manual makes sense, though this may be a newer model. https://manuals.sma.de/SB30-50TL-21/en-US/index.html

Instead don't have a TV, 31 years without one now.

Is there any mention of charge/discharge percentage and the total number of cycles?

No idea, I had had a long day, had to move, by hand, 150 scaffold planks. If I had left work on time, I would not have had to do that.

There are.

All that @JohnMo says, he is very, very, really wrong. Have you looked at overheating though. Simple, room by room, heat losses at low outside air temperatures is a rare occurrence, and usually happens at night, use it to just set the maximum size of the heat source (allowing for CoP reducing if using and ASHP and DHW heating as well). Overheating is much harder to calculate as you have to take into account OAT (outside air temperature), ventillation rates, window and wall orientations . You can get a lot of useful data from PVGIS. Just knowing the U-Values of each element is not really enough, you need to know the effective surface areas and how they interact with the local weather. As an example, my house is small, terraced and faces NE-SW. There is a lot of glass compared to wall, so when the morning and evening sun hit, the places is bright and warm (so bright in the mornings I close the curtains as I cannot read the laptop screen. During the day though, the sun is higher in the sky, so hits the roof mainly, and less on the windows, so the peak IAT (inside air temperature) is generally below the OAT, makes it quite nice. There is often a lot of talk about natural solar energy getting absorbed by the mass of the building and released later. Don't bother to calculate that, mainly because when you want those advantages i.e. winter and summer, the day lengths are working against you. A lot of nonsense is spoken about 'thermal mass', but very little evidence is shown that it is effective. Regarding UFH upstairs. While it is probably not needed, if you sell the house, most people will not believe that you do not need it, and it can be used for cooling, a bit.

I am the expert at that, why my house only draws power half the time. Most people can't work out E7, and truly believe that storage heaters don't work (but oddly believe that oil filled heaters are better) and that is the problem. Best to leave power delivery and management to the people that know about it.

To show what I mean about using local substations, rather than individual houses to store energy, here is the current usage map from UK Power Networks for the SE of England. Would be pretty pointless putting local storage into the green areas, and there really is not that much red and yellow.

Especially if they got an effective tax rebate at the highest rate they pay on their pension contributions.

How large is 'lots'. If you take the evening peak being in the region of 40 GWh (10 GW increase for 4 hours), that is 40,000,000 kWh, or close to 1 kWh per house. But as that would be extremely expensive to install (this 2014 paper shows installing smart meters costs £215/household), probably in the region of £1500 for the first kWh, then around £500 per additional kWh), it would be much better to install at the local substation. The advantage of that is better system reliability, monitoring and control, and that is before safety risks are considered.