SteamyTea

Yes, never thought of that. See what I can find in the 48V range.

A 10A load would be OK as that is what the continuous load rating is. We had some old 3 kW storage heaters wired in like that. Luckily they only had 2 or the 4 elements working in them. Kept the inflammable resin and acetone at a usable temperature. Looking back the things we got away with in the 1980s is quite impressive. One lad we employed was so keen to wire in a 7 kW sunbed when there was not a dedicated supply that he just split the wiring up, top and bottom. Then a bit of flex to plugs and found a double wall socket, plugged it in, told the customer that it was commissioned and left.

If the country code for the inverter is set incorrectly, this can cause a lot of disconnection. Seen that happen a few times. Especially with SMA, and they need an installer code to change it.

@TerryE I think the topic of load through a 13A plug came from the above. I can see the thinking behind it. I can be a quick fix/test if a concept. Probably not a permanent solution.

You can mimic most things in GRP. So not really sure what you mean about ugly edge.

Would it just be easier to make up an electronic breaker? Though there is beauty in the simplicity of a bimetallic strip. Or the cheap inverter idea. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384595771597

I seem to remember that Gridwatch does not meter all generation, certainly the case with PV. What total wind generation are you getting for 2019 and 2020?

What I made it as well, for 2020.

If I did not bother with an inverter and just switched DC.

So no comparison with normal HPs then.

Don't people use bits of roof slate?

Someone must have a brick shed to try it out on.

Could you use a Tyvek type material on plastic battens to create a small void, then the mineral wool insulation, then VCL then plasterboard. If done with care the mineral wool is made windproof, but not vapour proof.

It is usual to have a house warming party. Trash the place as everyone knows a place gets decorated after the move.

Called 'supper' out your way.

You got to stop the water getting though, not just thinking that a lime finish will let it dry out faster. Do you have a gutter/downpipe leaking onto it? With your builder, there is still time.

https://youtu.be/NFutge4xn3w?t=25

No amount of lime is going to help there.

All she has to do is act. Conversation is limited to praising me. Why I dress as a Catholic Priest, Jimmy Saville or Paul Gadd.

Right, thinking cap on. I have E7 heating into a 200lt water cylinder. Two 3 kW elements (nominal). One at bottom and one at top of cylinder. You may have seen my charts about the temperature gradient elsewhere. If I where to wire those two elements in series, and with a bit of experimentation with the two built in thermostats, I could possibly run them off a very cheap PV installation (maybe modules hanging on walls) and a cheap 2 kW inverter (about 40 quid). The thermostats could probably handle 6 or 7 A DC, but I could test that first, and there would be 2 in series, so already a bit of failsafe built in. Seem to remember that a capacitor, or is it a resistor, can reduce arcing. What do you think?

You could read your main meter, a week later read it again. Isolate PV, leave a week and read meter again. See what the difference is (hope the weather/cloud cover is similar. If you have a high and consistent base load, much of your PV generation will be satisfying this. Your Inverter should also have some logging options in it, this can tell you an awful lot.

Did I miss which inverter you got fitted?

And you know you will not have to chase them once your cheque has cleared as they will go bankrupt.

Going to ask you next winter for yours, we all know you will have sized it incorrectly.

Too late, the Chinese did it on Space Force.