SteamyTea

Just to elaborate on initial high heat demand when first turning on the heating. Here is the last couple of weeks data for my place, turned the heating on 17th November. Settles down to around 14 kWh/day. This includes DHW and everything else.

Lend it out on here, unless you are liable for the VAT/Import Duties, then don't.

What other methods, and how did you work out the individual effectiveness? I make sharpened slate spikes and put then in my large planters, that seems to keep the neighbours cats out.

Most modern ASHP can vary the power output, the kW. So when they return temperature gets closer to the flow temperature, the unit reduces its output. This means it is working less hard and uses less electricity. Older ASHP tried to produce full power and then just stop, then when there was a call for heat again, full power. This is very inefficient.

Nope. 3 m3 of water costs me £21, so apart from some relatively small running costs, would soon add up if I did normal things like washing a car and watering a garden. I have had about 900mm of rain this year (exceptionally low), if I used half of that, it would save me £100/year.

Or are unwilling to do business that makes them a loss. Exporting/Importing is all about marginal profitability, not absolute net profit. 'Turnover is vanity, profitability is sanity'

Would save me 21 quid each time though.

I fitted secondary glazing (home made). Made a big difference to sound levels. Any small airhole will let a lot of sound in. Much more than you would intuitively think. There are different types of thermal insulation, and more importantly, different methods of fitting them. Full Fill insulation is not always the best acoustically. Being means absolutely nothing, what was the actual figure. Building regs seems to think that anything under 5 ACH@50Pa is exceptional, some on here have bettered that by a factor of 10 (almost). Builders do not understand airtightness one bit. Practical solutions is probably down to thick curtains to the floor (which will probably cover a radiator), thick carpets, and lots soft furnishings. I used to go down your road some mornings, I don't remember the area being particularly busy but it was over 20 years ago and I ha usually left by 5AM (I was one of those annoying neighbours that left really early).

How much celotex underneath? You may be heating the ground more than the house, especially in the carpeted area. Your 17 kW ASHP will only run for an hour an a half a day to deliver 25 kWh if it is running on full chat. Hopefully it is modulating down to its minimum. As @JohnMo askes, have you a buffer. I have basic Economy 7 storage heaters, the first time I turn them on they gobble energy, twice as much as when they are running. So don't fret too much about the initial usage after turn on.

Have you not just re-invented a thermal store?

This sounds like an interesting project. Net Zero is an odd concept, pretty meaningless as well because it just relies on accounting i.e. self generation, at any time = usage, at any time. It is the 'at any time' that is the problem. I could make my small house net zero by just closing it up and moving out. So, in my opinion, the first thing you need to do is work out the weekly occupancy of the place i.e. how often is it open and needs to be usable. From that an energy profile can be established. It will not be 100% accurate, but even if it is within 20%, it is something to work to. When the building is in use, the power requirements will be quite high, when it is not in use, they should be close to zero. Most of the time the building will be empty I suspect (the large Methodist Chapel near me is very underused and has an all or nothing heating system). So while adding additional insulation (better than commercial building regs) may help if constantly heating, it may not be the best usage of the cash you have to spend. A fast acting heating system may be best, this is usually forced air i.e. change the cold air to warmed air, rapidly. The problem with this is that it tends to be noisy, and a Chapel should be quiet (my Quaker background wants it silent and no echo/reverb). It should be possible to have a system designed that is suitable, and the heat source can be whatever you like, as long as it is outside the building. PV is always worth fitting, especially in an underused building, the excess generation benefits everyone, not just the congregation. Now you ideally want excess generation all year round, but this is problematic in the winter. A 30° roof angle is less than idea, you really want the modules hanging off the SSW walls as they are then at a better 'winter' angle. Forget the NNE side, modules will be just expensive cladding. Ideally you will need some sort of energy storage to run the lighting, kitchen, ventilation, and the organ (get an electronic one and make some fake pipes). Some heating could be done by storing in a large concrete slab, but that means you are heating 24/7, which may not be optimal (depends on your initial energy profile). You could also store excess PV generation is a large water cylinder, then, when the building is going to be occupied, release that energy though a forced air heating system. Any stored hot water can be heating by any method i.e. gas, oil, solid fuel, PV, GSHP/ASHP, or a combination of any of them. It really depends on that energy profile. Other things to look into are any electrical equipment needs to have zero power draw when no being used. So don't go over board on the technology, a small kitchen can have a basic induction hob and an oven (usually larger than needed, commercial ovens are pretty basic inside), empty any fridge and switch it off when not needed (food will generally come in cold so will help cool the fridge anyway). Think about lighting very carefully. Single Phase or 3 Phase is really down to the expected maximum load, design it for Single Phase i.e. 100A maximum (23 kW). Then if close to that, get 3 Phase. Be careful how any PV is wired into it though, the Community Centre in Redruth has the PV wired into the two lightly used phases, while the more heavily used one has nothing (was a pre FiTs system, so totally useless). You will probably struggle to find an Architect that will understand the problems of spasmodically used, low energy, novel buildings that need to be off grid (even if connected to the grid). Use an off grid mentality when designing it. So to push the point one more time, work out what it needs energy wise, and when it needs it, then work on ways to reduce it, then look at ways to generate and store it. Not the other way around. You could end up with a very architecturally interesting building that need not cost any more to build than a basic building.

Keep track of the numbers, get some data from a local WeatherUnderground station, and run them though this calculator. You may find they are quite normal for this time of year.

Was this why Sunak was saying that BREXIT is working. Made it harder and more expensive to import what we actually want must improve the balance of payments. It may be a mess to import, but at least it is a British mess, and we need to be proud of that.

I used to know a disabled fellow that lived in a street like yours. I think MK Development Corporation built quite a few for inclusiveness, before it was a thing.

Do you really mean less load, or running less of the time? A heat engine, any heat engine, is ruled by the laws of thermodynamics. So all the inputs are summed, then all the outputs are subtracted. They must balance, even if the temperatures, or quantities, seem, but on the face of it, very different. Push any heat engine to either extreme, they fail, even a gas boiler. The idea when designing a system is to make them work in the most efficient area, most of the time. Efficiency, unfortunately, can be measured in different ways, and often is. It is not unusual to hear someone say they have a very efficient boiler, based on what? Their house being hot? The running costs being low? The ratio of primary energy to delivered energy? Never running out of hot water?

Welcome Looks like a bungalow to me. I know MK is a bit different (lived in Wolverton for a while), but what is unusual about it?

It also reinforces the concept that frequently is important, it uses it as the z-axis after all. Much better to explain it as small packets of energy (quanta) hitting the atom. The more packets sent to the target, the greater likelihood the electron is displaced. This can also explain efficiency quite nicely as most quanta will miss. Common language breaks down in this realm as it is hard to describe a continuous bombardment of massless sub atomic particles without using the term frequency. Even E=hv uses frequency to describe the energy. I wish quantum physics had been explored before Newtonian Physics. We would have a lot less confusion.

Put the obvious bits right and ask him to do a free secondary report. Then offer to sell your services as a quality manager.

It is strange how frequency always causes the 'damage' rather than energy levels. Ionising means removing the electron from the atom, leaving an ion. It happens all the time and at different energy levels how we make plasma). Frequency has very little to do with the process, other than the speed and quantity of the processes. It is all to do with the amount of energy needed to knock the electron into a higher orbit. Ionisation is a useful process as we can create molecules that would not normally exist in large quantities, or decay into the constituent parts very quickly. Ozone (O3) is probably one of the most common ones made and has many indirect advantages (sterilisation), though in large quantises can be damaging (it makes the body 'rust').

Select the whole text and replace with a period . Unless you are on a phone and then it seems to be impossible.

Is it based on the MPAN number, they tend to be outside, in an easily identifiable box. You can pull the main fuse, then stand around with an indigent look, while complaining about the Russians/Government/Power Company/ noisey neighbours. Claim you have been onto the power company and they say power will be restored in an hour.

What is this sun you speak of? None down here today.

Has anyone worked out what the price difference is for upping consumption during the timed usual usage session, then using as little as possible for the rebate session?

And this is what made me turn my heating on.

Here is what I measure and chart. Frequency is the wind direction, so when from the North, and the house and outside is coldest, it is about 8% of the time. West wind is when the house is warmest, but that is about 2% of the time. North wind is very slow, SW is very fast, Generally sunniest when the wind comes from between the West and NNW, SW winds are dreadful for sunshine, it is raining then. It rains a lot, except this year.