SteamyTea

Are you going to stay up tonight just to check?

Why cars are fitted with DPF now.

Yes Like this.

Think you would get too much back pressure. I am still umming and ahhing about one of the though the wall ASHPs. Only the noise that worries me at 56 dB. Having said that, my old fan heater is 62 dB.

Try my gas hob at work, think the burners are 9 kW. Why the extractor is larger than my kitchen at home.

So does it run the heat pump for an hour or more then, unless you lock it out?

If you pumped the cold air up a chimney, you would cool the brickwork, that may cause problems.

Can you pop down to mine tomorrow afternoon and take my old washing machine away in it? (I don't think anyone can call my car modern, has a Duratec engine, 30 year old design in its current configuration)

It works in a slightly different way. With a gas hob, you get a flame of fixed temperature, to vary the 'pot' temperature you increase or decrease the flame size. What this does is change the ratio of flame temperature to ambient air temperature, this changes the mean temperature hitting the base of the pan. The trouble is that you can still easily burn things on the lowest flame size as that can concentrate the flame temperature onto a smaller area of the pan (usually in the middle) with the colder ambient air convection on the outer 'ring' of the pan base and up the sides of the pan. With an induction hob it is the pan base that heats up, not the hob. Temperature is controlled by the induction coil being switched on and off in the background. This means that the base of the pan is at an even temperature across its width. There is a bit of a myth that you need heavy, think based pans on an induction hob, you don't. If people manage to burn stuff on an induction hob it is because they have the power/temperature set to high for what they are doing. Thick based pans are a legacy of old electric cookers with a glowing spiral (but even then if you know what you are doing it was not a problem). My pans were dirt cheap, Hell's Kitchen ones, think they were £17 for two. My frying pan was from Aldi, it is non stick and aluminium. To make it work on an induction hob, it has small steel inserts in the base. One big advantage of lightweight pans is that there is less chance of dropping one and damaging the hob surface. If anyone tells you that you must have really heavy pots and pans, you know instantly that they cannot cook.

I suspect electric windows are lighter than the old mechanical winder mechanism. The improvements in engine reliability, longevity, drivability, specific fuel consumption and reduced emissions over the last 40 years has been really amazing. Specific fuel consumption especially. Who would have thought that a 1.6 tonne car can do 60+ MPG in the 1980s. A car that can also take 5 people in comfort, go around corners safely, brake in half the highway code distances, and if you do hit something, there is a better than evens chance you unclip your seatbelt and get out. I think that cars are really amazing. No need to make them smaller and lighter just to save 2p a mile on fuel. As for physical size, tomorrow I am loading my old washing machine into the back of mine to take it to the dump, or Recycling Centre as they call them now. Could not do that in an old Mk 1 or 2 Fiesta.

Here it is. If you want a water pump to last almost 17 years, get a Ford one.

Is form Factor the ratio of volume to area?

Never used an induction hob then. Some might, all depends. Be easy to make a gas boiler cost that much. Just add some money to it. I think there is confusion between doing a direct boiler swap, an easy job, and replumbing a whole house and adding an ASHP. Bit like replacing a car tyre or replacing all the tyres and the wheels.

Ah, maybe not. I assumed that was foot print, not total floor area. My mistake. Thanks Steamy, Does that mean 22%of total volume of 'stale' air is removed per hour? It means that a fifth of the air in the house is replaced every hour, or on @JohnMo better calculations, half the air is changed every hour.

Yes. I have not had breakdown coverage for 7 years now, not since I got rid of the Renault. I tried to call the AA and the RAC to join, both times I pressed the 'new member' option I got cut off. I do know that join after you have broken down is horribly expensive (had to do it after owning the Renault for 3 weeks). I also did not fancy having my knee touched up for several hours. As it was, there was enough thermo-syphoning to get me home. Just had to limit my speed. Modern cars are marvels really.

Decide what you want out of the house first, then start to look at ways to make it happen.

Induction hobs are so much better than gas hobs. Do you do the same calculation on a gas boiler? Or just assume because it is a bit cheaper to install, it must be a better return. I don't know of anyone that does an ROI on a holiday, or bathroom.

Before you do apply for planning, have you done a decent heat loss analysis? It could change your plans.

What is that then, a resistance heater in the plumbing? Shows the value of monitoring.

True, but claiming that this fuel is sustainable is not a step forward. One thing that could be done to improve the emissions of flying is to reduce the number of flights. This is not the same as reducing the number of seats. If airlines were to share their bookings, then on most busy routes you could probably save one flight a day.

And they were, by today's standards, horrible to drive. When I was a teenager, I had a Hillman Imp, 725 kg. It never felt safe, was dreadfully slow (though quicker than a Mini 850), handled peculiarly and did about 45 MPG. My current car did 66 MPG with a boiling engine. We could make cars light and safe, make them out of well designed composite plastic, but I don't think that anyone wants to pay £80k for a car that cannot take 5 people and luggage.

I don't think that BEVs are that far off comparable ICEs these days. A Tesla Model 3 long range has a curb weight of 1840 kg. BMW 330d xDrive G20 1820 kg. They are comparable cars.

Possibly. I was not expecting after a 400 mile drive for the water pump (the garage thinks) to fail on the M4. That left me 200 miles to go, hardly touching the peddle, to keep the fuel input down to save the engine. If anyone was wondering who the shivering twat in a Ford C-Max, doing 40 MPH on the M5 was. It was me. Got home without it boiling over, but no heater, that water vanished somewhere.

What do you mean by that?

If we call that 180 m2 and the height is 5 m, then the volume is 900 m3 At 200 m3/h, that is 0.22 ACH.