SteamyTea

CLS One for the abbreviations thread

CLS = Canadian Lumber Standard I play a game with all Canadians I meet called 'Name 4 interesting Canadians' Interesting is not the same as well known.

Right, enough said. Helston is still closed on a Sunday.

Someone over orded then. Can I see your house from Marina Terrace? Well before it rains again.

I was thinking you could still do that. Basically set up the tiles upside down, then lay up the GRP on the back. Will have to work out a way to overlap the 'sheets of tiles' and include an angled tab to slide under the main roof tiles. Or just have a word with Shape near Redruth and see what they charge. What are you thinking of doing about roof insulation?

Right. Have you thought of using GRP, I am assuming it is the lean to bit of roof.

Welcome Can't really help with the roof question. Pictures may help others though. (Just about to pop into PZ as it seems to have stopped raining)

How much do you want for the bath?

Funny that, I get turned on, randomly,

Too right Energy can neither be created nor destroyed, but only changed from one form to another

Do you have a link to an example?

An interesting idea. I wrote an assignment on a cascading PV/Storage system a couple of decades ago. Was totally impractical at the time because battery storage was extremely expensive (got marked down for that, even though price was not in the remit). The nearest I can think of to do this sort of thing is an ordinary HP of some sort and then an EAHP to get the higher temperature. @Gone West has one in his old house and it worked well. I think the real problem is that it is cheaper and a lot easier to just boost up stored water temperature with a £30 immersion heater in the cylinder. If a 'magic box@ was available, even at £500, that is the same as buying in 6,120,000 kJ of electricity. 85 kJ will heat 1 litre of water by 20K. So 72,000 litres of water can be heated for 500 quid. If a shower takes 25 litres of 60°C hot water, say 100 lt for a family of 4, then that is 2 years worth. Or about 16 years worth for me as I take short showers and I live alone. I like the idea, but would want a system that has it built in already i.e. 2 wet outputs, on for the CH and one for the DHW, while still delivering a SCoP of over 3.5.

I am not an expert in electronics, but I have a very cheap (from Poundland) wrist monitor. It does heart BPM, blood oxygen levels and blood pressure. Then it stores it until I download load it.. Now I know light can pass though the skin quite easily and 'sense' what the blood is doing, but I cannot believe that there are not sensors that can do this sort of thing though a copper pipe i.e. via sound. @Radian is our electronics man, but not seen him about for a while.

Well yes. Should have said 'max flow for the temperature wanted'. Only weirdos like cold, dribbling showers, or maybe that is just my memory of the communal showers after rugby at the minor public school I went to.

I think most do, which means they are usually pulling maximum power. Not as if people choose to have a shower at below maximum flow rate. I can't think of a time I have ever reduced the flow rate on a shower, even the one on a ferry that was run directly of the propeller I think. Best shower I have ever know.

Is that true for all electric showers (near enough, there are always posh ones), I thought some did modulate, or is that what you mean by the Just like my old electric hob used to. So full power, then no power, then full power... It could be a small leak inside the shower unit, the RCBO should keep it safe. It is really hard to diagnose an electric problem remotely, there are too many variables, even on a simple installation.

Very good point.

It won't fix an earth leakage fault, it will warm the wiring up a bit more. My car worked reliably for many years, now it has a fault. I don't drive it as fast as I used to as I don't want to make matters worse before I get to fixed.

Fuses and RCBOs work differently. A fuse is purely an over current device and can take more current than its rating for a short period of time, sometimes for minutes A RCBO is also an over current device and also can handle overcurrent, but usually for a much short amount of time, usually milliseconds. It also senses any difference between the incoming current and the outgoing current, if it senses a different, it assumes that some of the current has gone elsewhere i.e. into your water, and disconnects the load. As your shower unit, and the possibly undersized wiring is quite old, there could be a breakdown of the electrical insulation anywhere. So probably best to sort it properly.

So something seems to have changed. Scale in the shower maybe. Saying that it was not a problem in the past when the fuse wire was in place is not a reliable analysis of the problem.

It is the way they work. While it is possible to make a heat pump modulate as much as you like, you loose efficiency and reliability. It is a bit like modulating an open fire. You can put less fuel on it, which reduces the thermal output, but at the same time, it reduces the temperature difference, which causes the smoke to rise less. Eventually there is no air movement up the chimney and the room fills with smoke.

The SEP

I bet he was not an engineer. Technician probably. Here is a good place to start. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_engine

Are you sure about that? The way the physics works does not support that.