Leaderboard

But then it would have cost twice as much and you would have had to use iscrews to fix it to the wall. no other tyoe of screw would have been compatible.

Yep don't get USB sockets in mains plugs. Way too much risk of outdated tech. I made an "iShelf". The cables disappear into a cupboard that houses a multipoint USB power bank. The only annoying thing is I should have made it from Apple not Oak

This is the inside of that pc I believe: The GTX 1060 card should fit in the long slot (under where it says GIGABYTE). That's the PCIEX16 slot. The blanking plate on the back of the case just snaps out. A more powerful psu is a 4 screw swap over and would fit. You need to careful as you unclip all the leads from the mobo and drive and swap them over. The new graphics card will need a feed of its own from the psu. 4th picture along shows the 8-pin power connector on the card. https://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/nvidiageforcegraphicscards/nvidiagtx1060series/gtx1060gamingx3g.html?gclid=CPSe2oOhtdACFUk8Gwodpq0C_A So....you now have a hotter card - quite literally in that space and this all needs more cooling. The card does have bloody great fans on it but you can't have enough. In a small space it can only draw in so much air. More fans in the case will force in more air. You'll see on the grid area of the case tapped bosses - the fan(s) bolt to there. The pc you're looking at has a fan for the processor (cpu) but no case fan(s) though. If you can fit a new card, psu and fan you'll have no trouble swapping everything over to a new (<£25) case if desired. The new case will likely come with a fan(s). Btw it'll need regular & careful cleaning inside.

You will need a long drill if you want to make this easy. I used an old 1m × 15mm masonry bit. If you are using 20mm tube then drill the hole on the inner; use the long drill in-to-out; withdraw the drill after doing the pilot hole and drill the outer hole from the outside using the pilot as a guide. Then thread the drill back through the new enlarged outer hole. Remove drill from the chuck and slide the pipe over it as a guide; push the pipe through and out to the outer wall line if nec. Sikka tape both sides for air tightness. Neaten outer after the stone skin is up; foam and silicon after the cable is in to complete air tightness. Takes about 10 min per hole with a bit of practice.

Ever noticed there's an "i" in SHITE?

PHPP allows you to model this - in my case with a 44% level of residual moisture (from the washing machine specifications) drying indoors as opposed to outside on a washing line uses an extra 400kWh/annum. Haven't put up an outside line yet.

This is probably the best argument for NOT fitting USB sockets at all, and just using plug in adaptors of whatever flavour is in use today.

Your door is more likely to be a standard size and easy for someone else to find a use for. NSS's windows are a bit unique and harder to find a use for unless you design something around the windows. P.S I note the ebay advert does not give the sizes.

i think you are over thinking this. We routinely dry our washing on the "pulley" Contrary to popular belief this does not add a noticeable amount of moisture into the house, there is no condensation or mould anywhere. And I cant say it has any effect on the temperature of the small utility room that it is in. So just do it and don't worry. If you use a non condensing vented tumble dryer, you, like me, will cry at 3KW of heat going out of the house through a big hole in the wall. If you use a condensing dryer, it will use much the same amount of energy but most of that stays in the room so adds to the heating of the house. You might detect I am not a fan of tumble dryers. the sole purpose of ours is to make the towels and socks "fluffy" and experimentation has found for that you don't need to dry them in the TD, just partly dry them, then hang them on the pulley to finish off.