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Good point, thanks for the reminder! Yes I have some. I'd put it to one side and forgotten about it tbh as at one time I was looking at push fit fittings which don't play nicely with chromed copper. Tempted once the two lengths of Pex and chrome tails are in, to temporarily bridge the chrome tails to form a pseudo loop and use my (Welsh designed ) test rig to prove those elbows:

This just out if interest: Bought a BL1830 clone a while back at random on eBay. Can't fault it the. Charges, doesn't get hot and lasts. Decided to get another for a freebie BHP452 I've just been given (needed a £2 forward / reverse lever). As you do I thought I'd compare the guts side by side. Externally the case looks identical. Looks a bit different inside though. The old clone's on the left and the new one on the right: EDIT: Should have added that the latest clone on the right ( with the red cells) is from here: http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?isRefine=true&_odkw=makita+18v&_ssn=lycfeng&_sop=15&hash=item25ad3101dd&item=161819460061&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmakita+18v+battery.TRS0&_nkw=makita+18v+battery&_sacat=0&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmakita 18v battery.TRS0&_mwBanner=1 Bought on recommendation from a member here who rated them. Not used in anger yet so time will tell! It does look well made though with an attention to detail etc. I must compare to the inside of a genuine Makita BL1830. I've no doubt voided any warranty but for £22.99 I'm not overly bothered. I'll openly admit though that with these clones I NEVER leave them charging unattended.

cheers ?

Just bought a battery pcb to try and resurrect a genuine BL1830. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-5x3-3cm-18V-PCM-PCB-Lithium-Battery-Protect-Circuit-Module-Board-For-Makita-UK-/152190429598?hash=item236f41a99e:g:9dIAAOSwqfNXoBVv On eBay for around £6 from Hong Kong etc if you don't mind waiting. Will report back or you'll see the pictures of the fire in the paper!

Look, I get very little excitement in my life so the adrenaline rush from taking chances like this is welcome! You've answered your own question!!

Just from my own logical approach I am planning to put our extract furthest from the door so it extracts from the shower, bath and toilet, it also drags the input air ( from under the door) across the whole room diagonally which I think will be better. ( this is based on pure logic and no actual experience on MVHR design.

ST may say I am misquoting him but I am sure he reduced his cylinder loss to nearly that of the sunamp unit! Tony says that heat loss from the cylinder in winter only helps heat the house and if that is well insulated it's not really a loss. I intend putting my tank in a well insulated cupboard so I have an "airing cupboard" ( as her indoors likes warm aired towels). I am tending to think 250-300 litres will be sufficient for our needs ( but will continue to read here.

Not always that directly - the old DHW / space heating question again. We, most of us, have been around the dwellings on this, our passive house design model shows we will need around 2Kw of heat, worst case - peak in a typical winter and max of 3Kw once every 10 years. BUT following a conversation elsewhere with @Nickfromwales we are going, as things stand, for a 35Kw Combi because we want to run two simultaneous showers at 10+ L/min and don't want the standing losses from a tank which @JSHarris has shown, and is discussed above, can be a problem in the well insulated home. The conversations above make the same point in that heating a well insulated home consumes a lot less energy than the DHW demand if we are all showering frequently as has become the norm or at the very least demands the ability to expend energy at a hi rate to recover hot water in standing volumes quickly in readiness for the next hose down! This is a classic 'no one right answer' problem - just an optimal one for each according to their circumstances....

Most of the reveals will be rendered but some will have an aluminium trim strip. The only reason for this is that we are having some elements of stone cladding (onto blockwork) and I don't want to have the stone in the reveals themselves as the thickness would be too great (25mm batten + 15mm board + 10mm adhesive + 35mm stone). There are a handful of details that I haven't worked out to my satisfaction yet. Above the 4 bedroom windows and the front central glazing there will be aluminium cladding (see CGI below) that will wrap into the top reveal. I have a few thoughts on how best to do this but I need to speak with the renderer again and get his view Actually, getting the ali/render detailing right is probably going to be the hardest thing

No, it's not something I'd even thought about till I read this thread. My site is not particularly exposed... famous last words?