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http://www.dupont.co.uk/products-and-services/construction-materials/tyvek-building-envelope/uses-and-applications/warm-pitched-roof-construction.html BCO is wrong ..... bit at the bottom says how the membrane is used in a warm pitched roof And this is the accredited detail from the planning portal.

So our floor was cleaned sealed and waxed today, the below is the end result.

This section is dedicated to all aspects of tiling. Whether it be wall, or floor, bathroom or kitchen, whole of floor, or other, you'll find all you need to know here. From which adhesives to use and why, through to how to grout, finish and seal ready for use. Just post a new thread here and we'll advise you to the best of our knowledge and help you get the job done right, first time. From this To this

Here's another slant to this often talked about "forgot to put in a cable for......" Yes I will try to remember all the cables I need, but you also need to think about technology changing and a need for something new. So I am building my house in such a way that it should be possible to add new cables from just about anywhere to anywhere in the future. How am I achieving that? Well for a start there is a service void all around the house, so dropping cables down that should be possible. To enable that, when I fit the floor upstairs (chipboard and carpet) I will leave a small strip all around the perimiter of each room that is only screwed down. So to gain access fold back the carpet, unscrew an access strip, and you can drop a cable down into any segment of the service void (spare holes having been left at the top of each segment of service void). That coupled with posi joists throughout, should mean I can add new cables from anywhere to anywhere.

What peter said. Ok...... A TS is basically a huge round radiator, full of primary central heating water, and stores zero dhw. Dhw is produced instantaneously via a coil which sits at the top of the TS which is simply heated by the surrounding water. The heated primary water can be drawn off via dedicated tappings, the same way heated primary water enters the TS from the boiler, and your Ufh would simply be drawn from those points. There is no 'pressure' other than the static primary pressure which would show on the gauge of your system boiler, which is simply showing that the system is sealed and full of water, aka pressurised. There is no force available to 'push' water to the manifolds, that circulation would be provided solely by the manifold pumps. For eg, if you connected the manifold flow and return to the TS, then unless it was by convection, no water would flow through the pipes as the body of water would be unified and therefore be at the same potential. Even though the boiler pump is pushing water to the TS, it's also pulling back at almost the same potential so that creates a circuit of flow to and from the TS to the boiler, only. To create external ( beyond the TS ) circulation you need to fit a pump, hence the ones on the manifold. @Temp spoke in detail ( on EB ) about this need for a second pump still remaining with certain manifolds / manufacturers, but tbh I still am unsure as to why the manifold pump wouldn't draw through regardless. Maybe Temp can reiterate that so we can identify the type of manifold which may need the secondary circulation pump. An UVC is the opposite of a TS. It has a coil, fed by the heat source eg boiler, which heats the tank full of clean drinking quality 'potable' water, the water that actually comes out of the tap. UVC's don't have additional tappings for removing heat as the coil which heats it simply couldn't deal with the additional demand, eg a bath being drawn plus all the Ufh calling for hot water to heat the house from cold etc. The TS gets heated directly via the open body of water so is far far better at getting the heat from the boiler into the primary water, plus it circulates it too, spreading the heat out evenly. The flow from the boiler also hits the top of the TS, which is where the dhw coil sits, so in essence provides a kind of hot water priority. This is why your second plumber is one is not consider using. He should have clearly stated all this to you as a reason for his suggestion, but I doubt if he knows what a TS is, let alone how it should be utilised. My bottom dollar is on him failing to explain that he intended to run your Ufh directly from the boiler, using 2-port zone valves, and a third zone valve for the UVC, as opposed to leaving you think that the Ufh could be fed from the UVC. If you were having Pv I'd have probably said upsize to maybe 400ltrs, but if you feed the TS directly with that size boiler you'll get instant, constant ( as in 24/7 constant running dhw ) from the 300. As it'll never be used as a heat battery from a Pv POV, pointless in upsizing and increasing the losses, BUT, if you do upsize it, drumroll please, you'll be able to run at a lower target temp and reduce the losses a fair bit so if overheating would ever be a problem that's one way to mitigate it ( say upsizing to 500L and running at 55oC, or 65oC at 400L ), Setting up for a lower flow temperature can allow you to ensure you hit the best condensing flow return temps and maximise boiler efficiency too, so this is a multi-faceted question which needs a bit more thought / input . With a fully modulating boiler you could probably get away with running the Ufh directly from the boiler and fitting an UVC for dhw, as long as the minimum heat load for the house ( when the house is up to temperature and the boiler is only offsetting the heat losses from the house itself ) doesn't fall below the lowest modulating point. The only problem would be sizing the UVC exactly to your anticipated consumption. This situation would see the boiler running all sorts of different flow temps though, and would reduce it's efficiency quite a bit, so my recommendation would be.... 400L TS fed from a 32kw boiler. Ufh fed from the TS. Have the 2 circuits of Ufh flow and return pipework split immediately after the TS so the ground floor pipework can be isolated from the upstairs via dedicated two 2-port valves. These are required more to stave off convection circulation ( a killer with TS's ) than to offer control for the heating. You will also require an additional 2-port ZV between the boiler and the TS (i) to have control of the TS temp and (ii) to stop backflow of heat from the TS to the boiler. Set the cylinder stat to control that ZV and that ZV will then fire the boiler. That can be set to get the boiler to fire for bursts at a temp suited to get the best efficiency, rather than constantly idling to maintain temp. Written on the move so hopefully makes some sense.

You're probably better filling it to the brim and covering the cap with a wet towel. More fuel = less temperature rise for a given amount of heat, plus no oxygen in the tank to allow combustion. I'd do this in conjunction with the screen ideas above.

Ok so you need to do some moving about on that roof and some new slates. Taking the partials out (thin ones) and moving things about will give you some room to get a proper overhang which can be rendered up to. If the rest of the roof is in ok condition then you may find it can be done off a gable end scaffold and you can sort the render at the same time. If the battens are too short then you may have to take the first 3 slates off each row to get to at least two rafters to replace the batten ends.