gwebstech

Query on how to fit mains water in floor

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Hi all

Im building a new house, and just wondering about getting the new water connection into the house.

I read that ill need to fit a sleeve/ducting (to fit the new water pipe into) underneath the poured concrete floor, but if using ie visqueen as a barrier, how do you make sure the floor wont let damp through when you have to have ducting in there somewhere? i can run the piping/ducting into the corner of the floor to be laid but surely that means the floor isnt "sealed" properly to stop moisture getting through. Surely the pipe has to be deep enough to go under the visqueen and therefore come up through it?

Also, if i fit the new water pipe in the floor for when the water company come to connect, can they make a permanent connection to a pipe ive already laid to my boundary or does it have to be 1 straight run of pipe from where they connect the water to? ie without any joins?

hope this makes sense

thanks

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I just ran ducting in underground, in the sub-base below the insulation that's underneath the slab.  This ducting came up inside the house where I wanted the various services to come in, just the same as the way the soil pipe(s) come up through the slab.  The DPM is just sealed up around these ducts/pipes in the normal way, before the slab is poured.  The DPM was sealed up around the pipes/ducts with the same butyl tape used to seal joints in the DPM, I think.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks mate, thats the only way i can think of doing it. If im right though, the visqueen has to overlap the external brick/blockwork doesit it? that means obv that any ducting cant be along an external wall?

 

i know BC wil ltell me how but its bugging me trying to work it out

 

thanks

Edited by gwebstech

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Not sure why you want anything running along an outside wall?

 

It's easier to just run services in underground, either directly or in ducts.  For example, we have a duct for the power cable, another duct for the water pipe, yet another duct for the 'phone cable and the main soil pipe coming in deep under our slab, with slow/rest bends bringing them up to the vertical.  I used flexible duct for the power and water pipe, the special rigid Duct 56 that OpenReach require for the 'phone cable (they can free issue it on request) and ran the soil pipes directly. 

 

The DPM is way above where these pipes/ducts run horizontally, in our case the pipes/ducts are more than half a metre below the DPM.

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Re the water company inspecting things.  Your life will be a lot simpler if you just have the site stand pipe as your ONLY connected "appliance" when your water connection is made.  Then once connected anything after your toby does not need further inspection, other than anything your BCO may want to do.

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Not the best picture but you can see how the two ducts here come through the DPM. This was just before the concrete was poured - both drop down below the ground level in a slow bend. 

 

9FD021A6-5D3A-4D99-B71F-57EC1D87E964.thumb.jpeg.224c4b45196ed715f0b045b5d957c484.jpeg

 

The orange tape is where the DPM was sealed to the ducts. Black tape used to cap them off so the concrete didn’t end up down the duct !!

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51 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

Not sure why you want anything running along an outside wall?

 

It's easier to just run services in underground, either directly or in ducts.  For example, we have a duct for the power cable, another duct for the water pipe, yet another duct for the 'phone cable and the main soil pipe coming in deep under our slab, with slow/rest bends bringing them up to the vertical.  I used flexible duct for the power and water pipe, the special rigid Duct 56 that OpenReach require for the 'phone cable (they can free issue it on request) and ran the soil pipes directly. 

 

The DPM is way above where these pipes/ducts run horizontally, in our case the pipes/ducts are more than half a metre below the DPM.

 

You misunderstand me, im just saying that a pipe coming into the property, is better away from the external walls

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45 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Re the water company inspecting things.  Your life will be a lot simpler if you just have the site stand pipe as your ONLY connected "appliance" when your water connection is made.  Then once connected anything after your toby does not need further inspection, other than anything your BCO may want to do.

 

after your toby??

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33 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Not the best picture but you can see how the two ducts here come through the DPM. This was just before the concrete was poured - both drop down below the ground level in a slow bend. 

 

9FD021A6-5D3A-4D99-B71F-57EC1D87E964.thumb.jpeg.224c4b45196ed715f0b045b5d957c484.jpeg

 

The orange tape is where the DPM was sealed to the ducts. Black tape used to cap them off so the concrete didn’t end up down the duct !!

thanks mate, this is what i was thinking is theo nly way to do it. Im assuming BCO passed this? my point was that you have to break the membrane somewhere which i thought wold cause damp/moisture issues

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Yes, sorry, Toby is the local name used here for your underground water stopcock.  Anything after that, is your pipe and your responsibility, and once you have the supply on your property to your building standpipe, you can add the pipework to the house when you are ready.

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You will need to cut a hole in your membrane in more than just one place. 

Every poo pipe

water main

bt

duct going out for any outside services 

 

it it has been done like this forever, don’t worry too much tape them up nicely and you won’t have a problem. 

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The water company will connect their "communication pipe" into the supply side of the boundary box. You will leave a tail of your pipe (couple metres excess) exposed at the BB location. It's normally 25mm MDPE 12.5 bar pipe. They'll connect up and turn on your supply at the ferrule (connection on the water main). The BB will have a half or quarter turn butterfly valve that will allow you to isolate your supply. You need to check who is responsible for supplying and installing the BB... It's normally the water company unless you are a developer that is installing multiple connections to a new watermain.

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Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

You will need to cut a hole in your membrane in more than just one place. 

Every poo pipe

water main

bt

duct going out for any outside services 

 

it it has been done like this forever, don’t worry too much tape them up nicely and you won’t have a problem. 

 

thanks, yes that dawned on me today thinking about the drainage- doh!

Edited by gwebstech

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Did everyone use draw cords for their pipe ducting? i thought the ie water pipe would just be pushed through easily enough on its own?

 

thanks

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