Vijay Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 It is, it's 2535 internal and 3365 external Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 The chimney is the easy bit. You will need to scaffold it twice and leave the small roof of till the main work is done. The first pic is when your on the first lift. Your basically putting one single bay in the middle of the chimney and bridge both gaps to the other runs. Will need to be all tied together. The second pic is when your above the height of that wall of the chimney. You continue the run and will have a single standard in the room. You won't be able to connect anything to it until it's above the wall height so you put a diagonal brace on where the green arrow are. Once above the wall height then put the ledgers and trannies in as usual. Then you just bridge the gap and tie both runs together. The porch is going to be a bit more tricky. For the first lift I would put 2 bays inside the house and 2 trestles at the door and then plank the gap and do that from the inside. Once your above the porch walls then it's 2 separate bays and planks covering the gap. This will be handy when doing the roof as it will be a massive area to load timber and tiles on to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thanks again Declan So if I've understood correctly, I wouldn't have any bottom transoms where I'm bridging a wall? I really like that idea of the loading bay How high are the standards and their fixing points? What ladders am I allowed/supposed to use? Anything I've looked at kind of shows internal staircases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 27 minutes ago, Vijay said: Thanks again Declan So if I've understood correctly, I wouldn't have any bottom transoms where I'm bridging a wall? I really like that idea of the loading bay How high are the standards and their fixing points? What ladders am I allowed/supposed to use? Anything I've looked at kind of shows internal staircases. Yep the standard will only have a ledger/trannie at the top once its high enough to go over the wall. The diagonal will just stop it from moving in and out. Standards are 9ft9 mainly but you can get shorter bars, 6ft6 and 3ft3. Each standard will have 4 V shapes welded onto the bar at approx 1ft6 intervals. They look like a star. You use whatever type of ladder you have. Internal stairs are safer as nothing can fall in you as the planks above protect you. If it is on the outside then make sure it's long enough to get to your highest lift and go past it so it's safer to use. Make sure its tied to the bars as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 Brilliant, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 How far should the scaffolding be from the wall to give a good safe work space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Needs to be far enough out that it won't hit the over hang of your roof. You can use a 2 board hop up bracket and then it comes off when your at the roof height. https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/products/details/3072.html Or set it 9 inches from the wall and if it needs moved out for the tiles as long as you have it sitting on timber it can be slid out easily enough to where it needs to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 You need to be very careful that you set out so your standards don’t interfere with fitting your soffit and facia, my scaffolding came with a set of brackets that sit on the inside towards the wall to alllow you to build your scaffolding further out but still have a plank close to the wall. If instructing a scaffolding contractor you will you will need to specify your soffit depth to make sure that the inner standards do not get in the way. A quick drag with the digger soon sorts it out though if you build it so close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 On 10/03/2019 at 19:49, PeterW said: From memory there is a fitting on the side of the bridging ledger to take a cross brace but it’s been a while since I’ve seen one used - that chimney doesn’t look wider than 8ft anyway ..?? They are called "hop up's" Available as 1 or 2 board wide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Hop up's are used in conventional timber frame construction to allow the initial scaffold working platform to come close to the timber frame. Then later when the blockwork outer skin is built, the hop up's are removed to create the "gap" to build the blockwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 The dimension of the soffit is 450mm (plus tiles) so I guess I will have to include some hop up brackets/boards to keep things safe and have the scaffolding out far enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 Return transoms - are they fixed at every level or just the top and bottom to lock the return run in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Yeah a hop up will make it easier. The return transoms are used at the level you plank out. So you lift them as you go up. If you have a few levels planked out then you need them on each of these corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 so you only use 1 return transom per corner? Is the one RT the only thing that holds the corner together then?? My gut feeling is to still use kwikstage, but I got a VERY good quote for normal scaffold today with no time limit. What worries me is relying on others for level changes that I might need ad-hoc and also things always change over time and the guy I've dealt with may no longer owns his company - who knows when he might sell up or retire - out of my control.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 You also use small lengths of round bar and use clamps and tie it together across the standards. Kwikstage is very easy to move a lift up and down that's what makes it so popular. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted April 9, 2019 Author Share Posted April 9, 2019 (edited) Still trying to get a plan together of what I might need - not as easy as I first thought. I mentioned earlier that my soffit is 450mm, so am I right in saying using a 2 board hop up is correct which says it's 510mm? I'm very cautious of getting it wrong and ending up too close when it comes to the roof. I know you guys have said it can be "persuaded" out a little, but I could see that being an issue when corners are tied into each other. So should I plan to have my scaffolding say 550mm out to give me some slight clearance? Also, can I confirm that a return transom cannot bridge a standard but sits on the ledger (so a straight run of a ledger without a standard in the middle of it)? Edited April 9, 2019 by Vijay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Can you go somewhere and have a mess with it, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willbish Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 These guys have some Kwikstage design software. I got a couple of drawings from them showing all the bits I needed. Ended up buying elsewhere cos they couldn't match the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: Can you go somewhere and have a mess with it, J33 M6. Anyone can come and take mine down, polish it, and put it back up again. I'll buy a deckchair so I can watch in comfort. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 14 minutes ago, AnonymousBosch said: J33 M6. Anyone can come and take mine down, polish it, and put it back up again. I'll buy a deckchair so I can watch in comfort. What will you do with the bucket labelled “Bits Left Over”. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 M4 junction 15, you can play with mine anytime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 You use a return transoms to tie together 2 different runs. It won't fit if there is a standard in the way. If you want to tie standards together you use clamps and short round bar or another ledger if it's a wider gap. As for the size of the hop, that's up to you. You could use a double board and set it 100mm from the wall and that would give plenty of room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted April 9, 2019 Author Share Posted April 9, 2019 4 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Can you go somewhere and have a mess with it, 3 hours ago, AnonymousBosch said: J33 M6. Anyone can come and take mine down, polish it, and put it back up again. I'll buy a deckchair so I can watch in comfort. Oh if only I had the time Would be very useful to see the stuff and get a feel of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted April 9, 2019 Author Share Posted April 9, 2019 4 hours ago, willbish said: These guys have some Kwikstage design software. I got a couple of drawings from them showing all the bits I needed. Ended up buying elsewhere cos they couldn't match the price. I've got to contact them again but they didn't want to quote when I asked before. I'm trying to get a list of what I need to make getting the quote easier, as I think the shape and size of my build has put people off even looking at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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