Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I can't say I wasn't warned........

 

Our wall-plates are up (and seem to be still there: surprised eh?).  But, since we used Durisol blocks we had to make sure that the Thunderbolts Bolts  are embedded in concrete. Not the wooden jacket  which wraps the concrete.  Tickety boo thus far. Staggered and roughly at 600 centers, concrete and rebar allowing.

 

While waiting for my little local difficulty to be sorted out, I thought I'd lay out the joists at 400 mm centers just like the big man told me.

 

Yep, you guessed it, occasionally the Thunderbolts get in the sodding way.  And if they don't get in the way on one side , they will on the other.

So common sense says move the mark to avoid the bolt and match the move on the other wall-plate. 

 

How on earth do I make sure the mark on the opposite wall is at right angles to the first mark?

Measure? Do me a favour, the bloody place is as square as a jelly

Buy another laser? Yeah yeah, yeah! Oh, hold on I need to buy more joists.. Damn.

 

Posted

Pythagoras Theorem for getting things square.....and a long tape.

 

Knock up a quick jig that'll hook over or screw to your wall plate over the Thunderbolt position & use that to guide your flat wood bit for counterboring. It'll have no meat to centre on 'coz of the existing bolt hole. Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in.

Posted
  On 28/11/2018 at 15:09, Onoff said:

[...] Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in.

Expand  

 

Hmm, and I'll have to have my SDS to hand because - being an anal German (Vorsprung Durch Technik, Heil Himmler) I drilled the concrete 5mm deeper than needed. 'Cos zats fot I voz told to do. 

Posted
  On 28/11/2018 at 13:57, recoveringacademic said:

 

How on earth do I make sure the mark on the opposite wall is at right angles to the first mark?

Measure? Do me a favour, the bloody place is as square as a jelly

Buy another laser? Yeah yeah, yeah! Oh, hold on I need to buy more joists.. Damn.

 

Expand  

drill them  AS A PAIR ON THE GROUND  BEFORE FITTING

Posted
  On 28/11/2018 at 15:09, RichS said:

Plus you don't want to move the joists or else the centres won't work for the flooring and plasterboards.

Expand  

 

Erm, yer talking to me. Not someone who would knowingly, willingly move a joist without a big fuss and a lot of overthought.

Posted
  On 28/11/2018 at 15:18, recoveringacademic said:

 

Erm, yer talking to me. Not someone who would knowingly, willingly move a joist without a big fuss and a lot of overthought.

Expand  

thought should come before hand 

 

you remeber what your wood work teacher told you 

measure 3 times ,mark twice ,cut once 

Posted
  On 28/11/2018 at 15:16, scottishjohn said:

drill them  AS A PAIR ON THE GROUND  BEFORE FITTING

Expand  

 

Too late mate. They're sneering at me from the wall. 

 

Still, now John has brought us back to the OP, how would any of you experienced people transfer a mark  from one wall-plate 90 degrees to the wall-plate on the opposite wall?

Posted

worked for the Egyptians + greeks 

 

you could go inside have a couple of weetabix then come out wind those bolts in flush -if bolts in concrete are good they will countersink themselves in modern soft wood .

unless you some special lignum vita beams .LOL

Posted

Pythagoras Theorem for getting things square.....and a long tape.

 

Knock up a quick jig that'll hook over or screw to your wall plate over the Thunderbolt position & use that to guide your flat wood bit for counterboring. It'll have no meat to centre on 'coz of the existing bolt hole. Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in. Flat washer same size as socket.

Posted (edited)

you want low techthat will work 

one piece of wood which is long enough to sit over 2 joist at 600 cntre -make another piece which you nail to first piece -the lengthof which is correct to make the next joist 600mm centre from first one . make 2 of these and use them as spacing guides--it just drops over top of the joists and spaces them for you

start at one end and get first joist square to walls or what ever you want it squre too --then just keep moving along.

has to be square and correct spacing= floor sheeting will match up

the second piece will be 60m less the width of your top runner on the joist

first piece make it 700mm long -nail second piece inmiddle of it

Edited by scottishjohn
Posted

The chords on your joists are nice and wide and the joists tend to be much straighter than normal timber, so boarding and flooring is much simpler and you are not having to screw too close to the board edge or at an angle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...