ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 I can't say I wasn't warned........ Our wall-plates are up (and seem to be still there: surprised eh?). But, since we used Durisol blocks we had to make sure that the Thunderbolts Bolts are embedded in concrete. Not the wooden jacket which wraps the concrete. Tickety boo thus far. Staggered and roughly at 600 centers, concrete and rebar allowing. While waiting for my little local difficulty to be sorted out, I thought I'd lay out the joists at 400 mm centers just like the big man told me. Yep, you guessed it, occasionally the Thunderbolts get in the sodding way. And if they don't get in the way on one side , they will on the other. So common sense says move the mark to avoid the bolt and match the move on the other wall-plate. How on earth do I make sure the mark on the opposite wall is at right angles to the first mark? Measure? Do me a favour, the bloody place is as square as a jelly Buy another laser? Yeah yeah, yeah! Oh, hold on I need to buy more joists.. Damn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Undo the thunderbolt, countersink and wind back in 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 Just now, Mr Punter said: Undo the thunderbolt, countersink and wind back in Honest? I mean really big fat smelly honest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 I can't see why not, unless there is something that says they are only single use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 No, I was thinking of the counter-sinking thing. Doesn't that weaken the wall-plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 not if is 20mm on a 47mm timber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 We have some timber end pieces on a river wall and they were countersunk to over half way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 24 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: Honest? I mean really big fat smelly honest? I did a similar thing to a wall plate on a conservatory I built many years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Counter sink with a 40mm spade bit and fit a 40mm washer to spread the load you are only countersinking the ones in the way so might only be a hand full. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Next time mark up the wall plates before you start, Iv played this game before. But now they’re already fixed, yes countersink and washer, or make a new hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 ? This is going from worse to getting better 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Pythagoras Theorem for getting things square.....and a long tape. Knock up a quick jig that'll hook over or screw to your wall plate over the Thunderbolt position & use that to guide your flat wood bit for counterboring. It'll have no meat to centre on 'coz of the existing bolt hole. Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Plus you don't want to move the joists or else the centres won't work for the flooring and plasterboards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 6 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: Next time mark up the wall plates before you start,[...] I thought you'd disappeared into wedded bliss, son. Next time? Next time ? Va te faire enquiquiner chez les Greques. (Tr. Vulg. Go and let yourself be seen to by a Greek man. Common affectionate French insult) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Onoff said: [...] Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in. Hmm, and I'll have to have my SDS to hand because - being an anal German (Vorsprung Durch Technik, Heil Himmler) I drilled the concrete 5mm deeper than needed. 'Cos zats fot I voz told to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 1 hour ago, recoveringacademic said: How on earth do I make sure the mark on the opposite wall is at right angles to the first mark? Measure? Do me a favour, the bloody place is as square as a jelly Buy another laser? Yeah yeah, yeah! Oh, hold on I need to buy more joists.. Damn. drill them AS A PAIR ON THE GROUND BEFORE FITTING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 6 minutes ago, RichS said: Plus you don't want to move the joists or else the centres won't work for the flooring and plasterboards. Erm, yer talking to me. Not someone who would knowingly, willingly move a joist without a big fuss and a lot of overthought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 1 minute ago, recoveringacademic said: Erm, yer talking to me. Not someone who would knowingly, willingly move a joist without a big fuss and a lot of overthought. thought should come before hand you remeber what your wood work teacher told you measure 3 times ,mark twice ,cut once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 1 minute ago, scottishjohn said: drill them AS A PAIR ON THE GROUND BEFORE FITTING Too late mate. They're sneering at me from the wall. Still, now John has brought us back to the OP, how would any of you experienced people transfer a mark from one wall-plate 90 degrees to the wall-plate on the opposite wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 chalk line and framing square? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 Just now, scottishjohn said: chalk line and framing square? Mmmm hmm. Bit low tech innit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 worked for the Egyptians + greeks you could go inside have a couple of weetabix then come out wind those bolts in flush -if bolts in concrete are good they will countersink themselves in modern soft wood . unless you some special lignum vita beams .LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Pythagoras Theorem for getting things square.....and a long tape. Knock up a quick jig that'll hook over or screw to your wall plate over the Thunderbolt position & use that to guide your flat wood bit for counterboring. It'll have no meat to centre on 'coz of the existing bolt hole. Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in. Flat washer same size as socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 (edited) you want low techthat will work one piece of wood which is long enough to sit over 2 joist at 600 cntre -make another piece which you nail to first piece -the lengthof which is correct to make the next joist 600mm centre from first one . make 2 of these and use them as spacing guides--it just drops over top of the joists and spaces them for you start at one end and get first joist square to walls or what ever you want it squre too --then just keep moving along. has to be square and correct spacing= floor sheeting will match up the second piece will be 60m less the width of your top runner on the joist first piece make it 700mm long -nail second piece inmiddle of it Edited November 28, 2018 by scottishjohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 The chords on your joists are nice and wide and the joists tend to be much straighter than normal timber, so boarding and flooring is much simpler and you are not having to screw too close to the board edge or at an angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now