daiking Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 This is our 'larder'. Its nominally 1m wide but its shallower than standard. Shelves have been cut to fit so are proportionally weaker. The simple choice in my mind is a length of 25x25x3 steel angle or a 40mm strip of matching MFC along near the from edge of each shelf to stiffen it up. On paper, it looks like the steel deflects about 10% of a chipboard rib so that seems the obvious choice. Does that make sense? how do wide kitchen shelves normally work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auchlossen Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I have used vertical dowel in the centre, let into the surface top and bottom with a shallow drilled hole top and bottom. If required to support books, then put two dowels in front and back. Very simple solution. ALternative is to glue/nail a strip of timber on the front of each shelf. Since you have a back to the cupboard, it might be possible to put a 'peg' in the centre of the back to support each shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I'd use a second shelf cut down to about 100mm thick and glue and screw it to the bottom of the current shelf about 50mm back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundtuit Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 If they're only shallow, a baton across the back under each shelf might be the neatest solution if you can get a fix. If you put anything across the front, your Glenmorangie won't fit. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Long term solution.... Go to b and q and buy some thick shelves, cut them to size and forget about it. You can do it when you blah, blah, blah etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 3 hours ago, Auchlossen said: I have used vertical dowel in the centre, let into the surface top and bottom with a shallow drilled hole top and bottom. If required to support books, then put two dowels in front and back. Very simple solution. ALternative is to glue/nail a strip of timber on the front of each shelf. Since you have a back to the cupboard, it might be possible to put a 'peg' in the centre of the back to support each shelf. She wants to keep it open across the full width which stops the post idea and something supporting from the back will not be sufficient. My suggestions are that 'timber' strip but I'd like to make them really substantial. 2 hours ago, PeterW said: I'd use a second shelf cut down to about 100mm thick and glue and screw it to the bottom of the current shelf about 50mm back. From an aesthetic viewpoint, I'm not sure that would work. The solution has to look part of the design, not just a doubling up of material - in which case, something in proportion to the 18mm shelf, say 2 or 3x the depth would look better. This was the original larder we saw that started the whole thing and the depth to the stepped shelves is maybe the look I need without the steps though. 1 hour ago, Roundtuit said: If they're only shallow, a baton across the back under each shelf might be the neatest solution if you can get a fix. If you put anything across the front, your Glenmorangie won't fit. ? Its going to need more than a batten I'm afraid. The whisky is already there because the box is too tall for the whisky cupboard, it'll need another home. Awful way to treat a treat a very nice whisky 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Long term solution.... Go to b and q and buy some thick shelves, cut them to size and forget about it. You can do it when you blah, blah, blah etc. It'll look odd, out of proportion with everything else and the shelves need to be 300mm deep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMitchells Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 (edited) yes, I agree with her - I'd love one of these too. May have to copy the picture to give to the OH/joiner. 19 hours ago, daiking said: . This was the original larder we saw that started the whole thing and the depth to the stepped shelves is maybe the look I need without the steps though. Edited July 30, 2016 by TheMitchells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 (edited) Batten across the back then: Carefully notch an ali channel (B&Q) but it'd need painting. Or some decent plastic mini trunking might also work (better?). Or put some dead straight / in line battens up the centre flush with the shelf front. Or have a look at the wardrobe rail fittings you can get in S'fix for instance and put a round, tubular support up the front / centre. Would have to be careful with edge distances though. Doing it that way will add up though! Mini trunking the more I think about it! White capped poly pins. Notch the trunking to go around the shelf and stick the lid parts back on. Might work..... Edited July 31, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) How about the "industrial " look? A length of studding with (penny?) washers & nuts either side of each shelf. For cleaner lines you could cover the studded sections with 20mm white pvc conduit which would be in keeping with the 16/18mm shelf thickness. I'll have a play later with what fits into what. & here you go. M8 fits just right: You would have to set it back to miss any cornice. Edited July 31, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 It's one of the reasons I went with IKEA units in the kitchen as their shelves seem to take huge weight with no bending at all. Where is the original unit from ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) 37 minutes ago, PeterW said: It's one of the reasons I went with IKEA units in the kitchen as their shelves seem to take huge weight with no bending at all. Where is the original unit from ..?? Poundland? Tbh our Homebase one aren't too bad and have a front support. The niece's ones from Wickes look like daiking's! Edited July 31, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) 6 hours ago, PeterW said: It's one of the reasons I went with IKEA units in the kitchen as their shelves seem to take huge weight with no bending at all. Where is the original unit from ..?? The kitchen is from Alno but the cupboard is a bit of a 'special' done as cheap as possible. Its 1m wide and the depth of the those shelves is only 300mm. Its 18mm MFC but its had approx 25kg on for quite a time, it's light at the moment. I don't think what its done is that unreasonable. It just needs a bit of support. That particular shelf is the worse, the other are only a couple of mm out. 5 hours ago, Onoff said: Poundland? Tbh our Homebase one aren't too bad and have a front support. The niece's ones from Wickes look like daiking's! You need help boyo! All it needs is vertical rib along the length of the shelf. No upright brackets, penny washers in conduit. Just a short vertical strip of MFC or sprayed white steel angle. My local B&Q is closing so all the steel and alu angles are going cheap. Got 6m of 25x245x1.5 angle for £12. Just needs a quick rub down and spray - Poundland sells spray paint. Edited July 31, 2016 by daiking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Quick fix: Take every shelf out, turn them over and put them back. They will now bow upwards, and it will be some time before they come flat, let alone start to sag again. And when they do, repeat. Okay i'll get my coat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 I thought he didn't want to lose ANY height between the shelves..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 12mm dowels vertically between shelves a crucial points where they sagg? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 10 hours ago, tonyshouse said: 12mm dowels vertically between shelves a crucial points where they sagg? Neatly counter bored a fraction, the top and bottom ones with a screw maybe, like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Midway in this case front only and yes of course tiny counterbore and mm perfect length, better with no screws. bach can be done with an bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 32 minutes ago, tonyshouse said: Midway in this case front only and yes of course tiny counterbore and mm perfect length, better with no screws. bach can be done with an bracket Guessing you'd need a shallow point on any flat wood bit to avoid breaking through. I've re-ground mine before for similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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