Shell820810 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 New plaster has been spray painted. The tiler has asked us to remove the paint from the walls we want to tile. Is this normal, and will a heated paint stripper remove a watered down emulsion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I reckon you're on a loser as in if the paint hasn't stuck well to the plaster..... Think I'd score the hell out of it at least if not sand it down / off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shell820810 Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 the paint itself is fine, the tiler just doesn't like to tile to paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I'm sure @Nickfromwales will be along soon but in my experience...... the tile adhesive will soften the emulsion and you'll end up with a very poor bond. If they don't fall off you'll certainly be able to pull them off with a sideways glance ive also foud that scoring can make it even worse as you aid the moisture from adhesive getting in behind the emulsion. Plus the actual surface area of adehsive to plaster is going to be minimal. I guess the degree of issue will be partly dependent on size and weight of tile. A few tiles for a splash back probably won't cause huge concern but much else and I'd be finding a way to remove the paint. As @Onoff said sanding is an option and a belt sander with 40g will make light work of it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 I use a wallpaper steamer to remove emulsion paint. It softens it a treat, then you can scrape it off in long strips, just like shearing a doner kebab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 The paint needs to come off, your tiler is spot on. After removing the paint, you'll need to prime the surfaces with a primer suited to accepting tile adhesive. Try a scouring pad and water to remove the paint. If it's a non vinyl based paint for obliteration it should emulsify and come off quite easily. If it's a vinyl based top coat, you may have to break through it first ( with 40-60 grit sandpaper ) and then try scouring once you've scored it sufficiently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMitchells Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Gosh, the things I learn on this site - point to remember, dont paint where you intend to tile. Thanks for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 If you wanted to put a couple of tiles, say around a basin on a fully decorated surface, could you use CT1 instead? *tilts stetson back* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Your right. As long as it's not water based it won't reconstitute the paint / soften it. CT1 will do a good job for small areas. The only problem is in splash zones where moisture can get in around the edges, so beware not to use it excessively ( eg more than just a splash back etc ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Second fix plumbing has been such an eye opener for me - all looks great now but so many bullets to dodge! I think painting before tiling was the only one I missed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worldwidewebs Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 20 hours ago, Bitpipe said: Second fix plumbing has been such an eye opener for me - all looks great now but so many bullets to dodge! I think painting before tiling was the only one I missed This is about the only area I'm 100% confident on! My dad was a decorator and I spent many an hour/day/weekend/week/month from about 8 years old working with him. The key is to get at least a first coat on everywhere as soon as possible, or earlier if you can! If you do this then cutting in on the final coat is a lot easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 This isn't about getting it on, it's about getting it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMitchells Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Resurrecting this post as I had planned to tile above our kitchen worktops tomorrow and remembered this post. the walls are already painted and I want to stick on small tiles, 20 x 10cm. No real weight to them. the thought of trying to remove the paint is horrible - what should I do? take the risk that they will not come off or what?? I plan to take the tiles up to the bottom of the units. Theyellow paint was already on the walls and ours is the cream. Here are the tiles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Sand the walls briefly with 40 grit paper. Buy this and water it down 50/50. Give it a good brushing and leave it soak in for an hour. You'll see the first coat soaking into to wall and the second coat will just reseal the first coat and shouldn't look like it's soaking in any more. After an hour or two it'll be dry and should be slightly tacky, which is then ready to tile . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMitchells Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 okay! Thanks - sorry to hear about your arm - hope its getting sorted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 If possible don't use acrylic aka ready made tub adhesive as it takes eons to dry out and needs porosity to dry properly. Id recommend using standard set dry ( powder ) adhesive and you'll have a good hour to work with it before it starts to stiffen. When you notice the mix starting to stiffen in the bucket you must scrape out and bin it. NEVER EVER add water to a dead mix to reconstitute it. Don't mix more than you can use in an 1/2-3/4 hour is the rule. ? With the primer, make sure the first application goes on liberally and cover up any adjacent surfaces as this stuff sticks to things it shouldn't. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) @TheMitchells That sounds like quite a lot of hard work cutting tiles round sockets - I am no good at that. I left the sockets in paintwork, and cut the holes in plasterboard. Best pics I have to hand at the moment I am afraid. Best of luck. Edited December 13, 2017 by Ferdinand 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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