Fixing stud wall sole plate to concrete floor with UFH??

[oranjeboom]

Okay, bit of a problem in that I have a stud wall (2.5m length with a door at one end) that will need its sole plate fixing somehow to the concrete. Normally a few mechanical fixings would do the job. However in this case I can't be 100% sure where the pipework is located as the guy who poured the concrete made a total mess of things with some pipework movement.

I did take photos and measurements prior to pour but all of that is redundant if the pipework locations have shifted. So I really don't want to drill into the concrete and cause any further grief for myself.

 

Thermal imaging will not help in this case as the heating is not online yet.

 

So as I see it, I can friction fit the studs between the floor and ceiling joists but also give the sole plate a generous amount of adhesive of some kind. Any recommendations? 'No more nails', Pink Grip etc are some of the ones people have used.  I was thinking of CT1 or something like https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11337 or https://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-mighty-seals-grabs-sealant-adhesive-white-290ml/8736j?_requestid=276455?

 

TIA!

Edited September 21, 2018 by oranjeboom

[joe90]

How far below the surface are the pipes. You could cut (route)  a slot into the floor surface and fix a baton the same size to the bottom of the sole plate and this would stop it moving sideways.it need only be 10mm deep.

[oranjeboom]

17 minutes ago, joe90 said:

How far below the surface are the pipes.

Well that's the problem! Designed and laid to be at least 40mm below surface but during the pour some of mesh and pipe rose (yes it was filled) but the f****** who poured the floor didn't think it mattered and would just pour on a bit more concrete to hide any instances where this occured. So in some areas I had about 2mm of cover. Floor has been ground down now to have a level finish, but I can't risk grinding/cutting any more concrete in case there's a pipe a few mm below surface. 

[Big Neil]

how about, a line of aircrete blocks in normal mortar, the the stud wall on top of that.

[nod]

3 hours ago, oranjeboom said:

Okay, bit of a problem in that I have a stud wall (2.5m length with a door at one end) that will need its sole plate fixing somehow to the concrete. Normally a few mechanical fixings would do the job. However in this case I can't be 100% sure where the pipework is located as the guy who poured the concrete made a total mess of things with some pipework movement.

I did take photos and measurements prior to pour but all of that is redundant if the pipework locations have shifted. So I really don't want to drill into the concrete and cause any further grief for myself.

 

Thermal imaging will not help in this case as the heating is not online yet.

 

So as I see it, I can friction fit the studs between the floor and ceiling joists but also give the sole plate a generous amount of adhesive of some kind. Any recommendations? 'No more nails', Pink Grip etc are some of the ones people have used.  I was thinking of CT1 or something like https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11337 or https://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-mighty-seals-grabs-sealant-adhesive-white-290ml/8736j?_requestid=276455?

 

TIA!

I use sika flex with mf stud Then build off it the following morning

 

[Oz07]

Had a bit to do under some stairs the other day. Had some pink grip on the job so used that then spiked some nails in. Literally through the timber then just the point into the screed to stop any movement while I worked. We're talking 5mm at most. 

[Russell griffiths]

I have grip filled loads of stud walls down, what are your floor coverings, as the ones I did where all held in place by the tiled floors either side. 

[oranjeboom]

17 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

I have grip filled loads of stud walls down, what are your floor coverings, as the ones I did where all held in place by the tiled floors either side. 

It will be tiles (bathroom side) and a floating floor the other side. I may also need some self levelling compound which would help secure it all laterally if I pour this after the wall is up.

 

28 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

Had a bit to do under some stairs the other day. Had some pink grip on the job so used that then spiked some nails in. Literally through the timber then just the point into the screed to stop any movement while I worked. We're talking 5mm at most. 

yeah, I'm even scared to bang in 5mm at most. Knowing my luck....

 

1 hour ago, nod said:

I use sika flex with mf stud Then build off it the following morning

 

mf??

 

2 hours ago, Big Neil said:

how about, a line of aircrete blocks in normal mortar, the the stud wall on top of that.

 

 

That could be an option though my stud will be 70mm plus pb so would have to get the aircrete blocks to match. I also know how brittle the blocks can be when drilling into them.  And also aware of cracks appearing between the pb join on the block/timber join over time with door being banged (teenagers present!).

[Russell griffiths]

If you make sure you grip fill the bottom of the sole plate and grip fill the floor and squidg them together to break off any skinning over, you will need to chisel it up with a BFO hammer if you get it wrong. 

[Mr Punter]

As long as the floor is clean - no dust - sticking will be fine.

[Construction Channel]

Slap some dustproofer/hardener on the floor first and you’ll be fine. Iv stick all my sole plates in my house even though I know there arnt any pipes below them.