Nickfromwales Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 24 minutes ago, PeterW said: Do the joints and the pocket edges +1 Slapping more over anywhere that looks shy isn't a problem, but you want to first do the walls where the adhesive filled the gaps which tbh you can get on with now. The wetfloor area needs tanking through the day whilst you arse around elsewhere and then tiling the following day. As your on a slab, it'll absorb any water from scrapes or dings, so get the tiles all cit, honed and dry laid, number them up, and get a chuffing mix on boyo. "It is time, my young crappprentice". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 (edited) Can I "stop 'n start" with tanking? I'm thinking, given the advice, to do the 1.3 x 1.3 floor area, pocket edges and filled joints with membrane. Then tape the wall to floor junction - that'll be +3m of the tape used up o/of 10m. Option to tape the vertical joints either side of the mitre...I think I should? (Leaves me 7m of tape for round the bath). I was thinking tape the joint between the flat (marine ply) deck the bath sits on, up the mrpb wall at the back and the ply on the long side: The reason I'm asking about stopping 'n starting is I'm probably getting another bottle of primer and full bucket of tanking membrane but not until next Friday. Thinking I could do the rest of the floor then... Maybe even do the tanking and get the wet room corner tiled now? Edited July 19, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 On 19/07/2018 at 07:22, PeterW said: Why are you tanking Aquapanel which is by definition waterproof.... Do the joints and the pocket edges etc but unless you're going to have seriously bad aim, around the WC is pointless. And as @Nickfromwales says - this needs to be done the day before tiling and you don't want to be putting joints in it...! Says on the primer label that it can be used on "cementitious boards...and speciality wet room boards". Does that not suggest ALL the Aqua Panel needs doing not just the joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 I primed it all - not that expensive so a cheap insurance. Tanking has well bonded to mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 16 minutes ago, Onoff said: Says on the primer label that it can be used on "cementitious boards...and speciality wet room boards". Does that not suggest ALL the Aqua Panel needs doing not just the joints? Not unless you’re going to tank all of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) 19 minutes ago, PeterW said: Not unless you’re going to tank all of it... I was originally intending to, at a minimum, tank the wet room corner floor, nom 1.3 x 1.3 AND all the walls including the pockets above this area - roughly straight up in line with the SBR container on the left and milk container on the right: As said before if I do that, the 7.5m sq. kit isn't really enough to do this which works out as below. I wonder if I could maybe do the higher section of the wall in SBR? Wet room corner floor is 1.3x1.3 so 1.7m2 The mitred wall bit is 1m2 Each wing with the pocket in is 2.47x1.3 so 3.2m2 x 2 = 6.4m2 Over 9m2 just there! Edited July 30, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 (edited) 13 hours ago, CC45 said: I primed it all - not that expensive so a cheap insurance. Tanking has well bonded to mine. What did you prime with, the stuff that came with the kit or SBR? & how the Hell is 1L of primer in the kit supposed to cover 7.5m2 it's just not possible? Edited July 31, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 I've calculated that if I stop the tanking 2.1m up the wall (below the red line) I should have enough in the 7.5m sq kit to do all the walls pockets and floor area. Just got to make sure this towel radiator loop is holding pressure and I can get that bit of board on round the pipe and tank! Going to start from the red line and prime working down then onto the floor. Tbh if I run out I'm going to finish off with SBR before applying the membrane. I've also ordered another 7.5m2 tanking kit for around the bath etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 (edited) Turns out 1L of Aquaseal Primer goes quite a way! In face quite a bit more than the 7.5m2 they say. Only needed one coat as the mrpb and Aquapanel aren't by nature overly porous. Even the DIY cast shower area concrete didn't take it in too much as it was laden with SBR when I mixed it. So all primed inc the area under and behind the wc. Then onto tanking EXCEPT I needed to incorporate the Geberit wall drain's own tanking "flaps" into it all. For this I've used the liquid tanking membrane as @Nickfromwales said. The video reckons the flaps fold out all nice and neat like in this still shot. They also appear to bed it down on tile adhesive but the thought was this will be too thick. So with the kit's 3" brush I liberally applied liquid membrane behind where the flaps go and left to go tacky. Maybe should have left longer as a couple of bubbles that won't stick down for love nor money! Tbh not that bad really. Mine were a bit rouched at the sides. I think maybe the drain is set a little lower than it should have been. Only thing was to CUT the inbuilt membrane on the vertical face and overlap as best as. The video shows the wall drain flaps (under the pink area) being overlapped by the tanking strip that goes at the wall/floor interface. BUT I need to wait for the liquid membrane that beds the drain flaps to go off. Then I'll run the tap over that like in the still above. Looks like this now: So I'm waiting! Will probably do the strips in the morning and put on the first main coat of tanking membrane (brushed horizontally) on the walls, pockets and floor. Might then go get my Larsen primer and adhesive and do the second tanking coat (brushed vertically( when I come back. Downside of this membrane is I now have a hairless and sore left forearm where I let it dry! A big plus though is the brushes etc wash out under the tap. For now it's back to the Party Seven can and the telly! Edited July 31, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 use a roller for the tanking membrane - better overlapping and more even depth. Also quicker - although you won't obviously be interested in that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 (edited) 21 minutes ago, CC45 said: use a roller for the tanking membrane - better overlapping and more even depth. Also quicker - although you won't obviously be interested in that! Everything I've read & watched says a big brush and for seemingly good reason. First coat gets brushed horizontally. Second coat goes on vertically so brush lines are straight down. Thinking being if water gets under the tiles it runs down in the vertical "grooves" in the membrane. Interesting in that as this bit around the wall drain is drying it's contracting and looking better / tighter. Edited July 31, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 I put about 5 layers on with the roller - some going horizontal & some vertical. II was worried about depth of tanking - didn't need to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 10 hours ago, CC45 said: I put about 5 layers on with the roller - some going horizontal & some vertical. II was worried about depth of tanking - didn't need to be. The Geberit wall drain area has dried off really well tbh, better than I thought. There's one bit where I cut it due to the rouching that I need to stick down. Was even thinking a dab of CT1 in that hole and push it down? You can see on the rhs where I had to (jagged) cut on the diagonal the stuff due to the rouching. It's tough as old boots and a pig to cut! The top bit laps over the bottom bit of course. As said elsewhere I've ordered another 7.5m Aquaseal kit from Amazon. I want to do around the bath and there'll be that much left I'll go around the basin area too I think. Reckon I'll end up with the whole room tanked! I had hoped to get the tiles down but I'm going to tank the primed areas today then wait until the other kit comes thru and just carry on from the primed / tanked edges where I finished. A random thought but using the tanking membrane I recognised the smell. It's I think identical to Febond Blue Grit I'm sure (aside from the grit). I got the Blue Grit for my plastering attempt. Tried it and then decided not to use it (despite much advice not to even bother ). Skimming the labels and looks pretty much the same to me. Aquaseal Tanking Membrane: Febond Blue Grit: Guessing I could have saved myself a few quid on the second kit by priming the area with SBR then after letting dry used the Blue Grit? Of course I'd have still needed more Aquaseal Tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 It just tells you the preservative is the same - not the contents of the container !! Mixing parts of a system and changing components without understanding the underlying chemistry is a really bad idea... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 1 minute ago, PeterW said: It just tells you the preservative is the same - not the contents of the container !! Mixing parts of a system and changing components without understanding the underlying chemistry is a really bad idea... Ta. So is all that ingredient list just for the biocide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 I stick to the same company for all the bits on each job - how else can you hold them responsible if it goes wrong? The tape always seems to run out - and its expensive to buy on its own. I would seal that slit and then loads of tanking over the top. I found it dried quickly (it was during that really hot spell) - so with the three areas I was doing I could just keep going until I run out of the tanking fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 That's 10m of tape used! Did round the WC too. The tape pretty much covered that nick so I'll just load with membrane over the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 29 minutes ago, CC45 said: I stick to the same company for all the bits on each job - how else can you hold them responsible if it goes wrong? You see I'd chance it just for the adrenaline rush! That plus my conspriracist thinking that it's all made in the same factory anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 why around the toilet? if you're that poor at aiming perhaps its time to sit down when doing No1's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 The floor and nearest internal angles away from the main shower area always get done in a wet room. Its to stop water tracking to the nearest porous material ( your sponge-like plasterboard or ply ) and wicking up it slowly until the shit hits the fan. No need for taking solution on the WC wall, but id certainly use solution over the tape to wall junctions. Tanking start / stopping no problemo. Tank all the cement board in the shower area, like you weren't ever going to do that anyway 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 (edited) Tanking the Aquapanel is weird...like the membrane isn't keen to "cover". Takes a second coat to get it looking 'bluer". The Geberit flaps and Aquapanel tape suck up the membrane and look much bluer though. Used half the tanking membrane. First coat. Darker patches where I've gone over it again. Genuinely done ceiling to floor. Wonder if I need some more applied higher up, especially over those jointed areas? I've not gone all the way up the wall behind the WC...figured my aim isn't that bad! Besides, with age I find the velocity isn't what it was... Edited August 1, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 9 minutes ago, Onoff said: I've not gone all the way up the wall behind the WC...figured my aim isn't that bad! Besides, with age I find the velocity isn't what it was... You have a son. You both like a beer or 3. Just sayin ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Have you not tanked the ceiling..?? Should really do the ceiling - and the back of the door .... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Have you not tanked the ceiling..?? Should really do the ceiling - and the back of the door .... Seriously though does it look alright? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 I'd have chosen a different colour but that's down to personal preference I guess. keep slapping it on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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