Onoff Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 (edited) Figured I might as well ask some questions on the subject of tanking a wet room on it's own thread! Might assist someone else. I have an Aquaseal Large Waterproof Tanking Kit. First off it comes with a "Waterproof Tanking Drain Mat", this: It's about 400x400mm. It's meant to go under / around the shower waste. However, as I'm having a Geberit wall drain that has a membrane built in: I was wondering if I could then use the now spare Drain Mat over the shower mixer? Edited June 26, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Read this too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 (edited) I'd forgotten about that thread. Soon came flooding back, it's the one I showed SWMBO whereafter she wanted a mitre corner like Nick did! I'm going to apply the strip to: - the floor / wall junction - floor to ceiling either side of the Notre - over the mixer I'm not sure ref the pockets though? Do the internal AND external corners with strip? As an aside on the pockets I'm still debating whether to put a slope of a few degrees on the bottom to aid water run off? If I do, how to do it? Some sort of packer to raise the back of the tile up maybe or a series of accurately cut wedges? @Nickfromwales, in the link you cover the mixer with tape but there's a gap in the centre. Any reason why I cant just cut 3 accurate holes in mine and slip it on? Edited June 26, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 32 minutes ago, Onoff said: an aside on the pockets I'm still debating whether to put a slope of a few degrees on the bottom to aid water run off? If I do, how to do it? Some sort of packer to raise the back of the tile up maybe or a series of accurately cut wedges Use that adhesive you bought to fill the gaps and put a fillet on the shelves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 (edited) 29 minutes ago, PeterW said: Use that adhesive you bought to fill the gaps and put a fillet on the shelves Good shout. I can make a little former / tamper so all 3 are the same. I'll do that THEN tank them. Should I prime the Aqua Panel with anything prior to doing the filet d'you think? Neat SBR maybe? What angle do you reckon? Edited June 26, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Not 45 degrees or the shampoo won't stay put . Just a couple of degrees will be ample. Water won't completely run off anyway as you'll have stuff on the shelves, so I wouldn't go mad. +1 to packing first, then tanking. Make the ramp out of a solid bed of tile adhesive. Wait until it's 75% cures and then drag an engineers rule over it to 'scrape' it flat. Fill any dinks AFTER it dries and then tank. Theres not much point in going crazy over the shower valve TBH, as you need access later down the road anyhoo. When you tile around the shower valve it's better to keep the tile adhesive about an inch away from the cutout, and then go around the cement board with CT1 or Sikaflex. Start at 7 o'clock and apply a nice continuous fat bead up and over all the way around to 5 o'clock leaving a gap at 6 o'clock for a drip gap. That'll manage any water away from the opening, should some ever get in there. Be very careful with the tanking strip, especially when overlapping from one to another, as you'll soon have created a high spot a good 4-5mm proud of the wall. Then you have to bring the rest of the wall out to that point so you don't get kickers. Butt them where there's no continuous water eg most of the walls, and only overlap on the floor to wall junctions and the floor to ceiling junction. All the walls / pockets you can butt and just tank the shit out of it ( over it ). Remember that tanking alone is bombproof, and stretchy too, so the strip is only for junctions where dissimilar materials meet and you expect movement. On the walls and the pocket shelves you won't get any such movement so it's really not needed. Adding it for the sake of adding it can cause problems ( with high points ) not solve them ( as stated above ). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 I need to get some more tanking strip if not another complete large tanking kit as I need to do around the bath and long pocket there. That pocket rear face is just mrpb. The bath deck and up to the pocket is 12 & 18mm marine ply. I'm planning strip at the rear of the bath on the ply and up the mrpb wall. I'll tank that ply wall then to the height of the pocket. Where the pocket is I'll put a strip from the ply bath deck up where it goes vertical - there's a black / white Sikaflex EBT seem at the junction you can just see. Then in the pocket a strip over the ply/mrpb interface. Then tank the lot and try and not get it on the bath! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Only use the strip where the ply meets the MRPB. Tanking the pocket is more than suffice, unless your going to fill the bath with cheerleaders and red bull ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 You can also cut the flat sheet into strips instead of using it around the valve ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Once the ply has been tanked can it be tiled onto with tile adhesive? Seem to remember it's best to stick tiles direct to ply with cheap silicon but as I say this will be tanked not bare ply. Ref tanking...not being known for speed can I tank and then come back to tiling a bit later? This assuming I don't puncture the tanking in the meantime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Tanked = adhesive Untanked = silicone 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Ref tanking...not being known for speed can I tank and then come back to tiling a bit later? This assuming I don't puncture the tanking in the meantime. Just on this, you shouldn’t be relying on the tanking to stop water getting through - it’s the absolute last line of defence ! Tiles and grout are reasonably waterproof - just look at a swimming pool for example. A full bed of adhesive is also pretty watertight, so with tiles, grout and adhesive, any water getting through will be minuscule and the tanking is there to provide a final layer. Be aware that the Aquaseal stuff doesn’t look like it’s fully covered but you put it on in two layers at right angles with a brush and it does work well. Don’t be tempted to put it on too thick or it will flex and the grout will move. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 So even if you had enough for 3 coats you would only do 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 Thinking to start the tanking in the shower corner tomorrow. The floor is concrete that's been down a while and was at one time dustproofed with SBR watered down probably 5:1. Should I abrade the concrete in any way to get rid of any surface latience? Cheers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 No damp rag to get the dust off, primer then tanking. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Mop the concrete with a dilute primer such as FlexiPrime. Do NOT tank until you are 100% ready to tile. Literally the day before. You'll just scuff it and ruin it. Total waste of time and money if your not laying tiles the next day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Mop the concrete with a dilute primer such as FlexiPrime. Do NOT tank until you are 100% ready to tile. Literally the day before. You'll just scuff it and ruin it. Total waste of time and money if your not laying tiles the next day. Many thanks as always! Would you aim to tile the whole floor in one go? I'm assuming yes. Should I do a "dry" run first as in lay the tiles out with spacers in, cut the edge ones and also the union jack ones for the wet room corner? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 9 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Mop the concrete with a dilute primer such as FlexiPrime. Do NOT tank until you are 100% ready to tile. Literally the day before. You'll just scuff it and ruin it. Total waste of time and money if your not laying tiles the next day. I thought @Nickfromwales was joking when he said to mop the floor when we were putting 15 bags of self levelling down but he meant mop..!! As in soaking ..!! And then mixed the SLC with nearly 20% more water and ended up floating a floor +\- 2mm overall as you can make that stuff run up hill if it’s not wet enough and the concrete below is bone dry. A mop and bucket is now my weapon of choose for flooring ..!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 1 hour ago, PeterW said: I thought @Nickfromwales was joking when he said to mop the floor when we were putting 15 bags of self levelling down but he meant mop..!! As in soaking ..!! And then mixed the SLC with nearly 20% more water and ended up floating a floor +\- 2mm overall as you can make that stuff run up hill if it’s not wet enough and the concrete below is bone dry. A mop and bucket is now my weapon of choose for flooring ..!! Keep telling him he should write a book! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 18 minutes ago, Onoff said: Keep telling him he should write a book! He would need a good editor as the following statement to the “wet it through till it’s sopping” was “now mix me a bucket of jizz and make it like mother’s milk....” Translate that ..!! 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 25 minutes ago, PeterW said: He would need a good editor as the following statement to the “wet it through till it’s sopping” was “now mix me a bucket of jizz and make it like mother’s milk....” Translate that ..!! That style would be ace in a book! It would just need a good glossary at the back! You can't suppress style, it's a unique selling point! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 32 minutes ago, newhome said: That style would be ace in a book! It would just need a good glossary at the back! You can't suppress style, it's a unique selling point! True Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 I've a way with words.....what can I say. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 (edited) Same photo as above: I've a 7.5m2 tanking kit...not enough! Wet room corner floor is 1.3x1.3 so 1.7m2 The mitred wall bit is 1m2 Each wing with the pocket in is 2.47x1.3 so 3.2m2 x 2 = 6.4m2 Over 9m2 just there! On top I want to do around the bath. Might as well get another couple of 7.5m kits and do round the wc, sink etc. Edited July 19, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Why are you tanking Aquapanel which is by definition waterproof.... Do the joints and the pocket edges etc but unless you're going to have seriously bad aim, around the WC is pointless. And as @Nickfromwales says - this needs to be done the day before tiling and you don't want to be putting joints in it...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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