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Tanking A Wet Room


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I should add that once the floor tiles are down and grouted I'll be covering them in some surface protection sheets, duct taped at the joins whilst I do the walls etc.

 

I have a good few Correx boards anyway, site freebies, that I periodically scrub and hose down of whatever plaster, paint, spilt concrete but they're getting a bit tatty. Saved a good few moans by protecting the hallway carpet en route to the bathroom. (In all honesty they're in better nick than the carpet :) ). If too tatty I'll get 2 or 3 of these:

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Proplex-Surface-Protection-Sheet---1200mm-x-2400mm/p/118670

 

 

 

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On 03/08/2018 at 21:20, CC45 said:

Ok @Nickfromwales - although our bathroom isn't a wet room and with skirting hiding the floor / wall join I'm not sure why the floor first.  Is there a specific reason?

 

Diolch

Yes,

i) So your not looking down at all the grout lines at the perimeter of the room. All the grout lines should be difficult to see, so when you look down a wall into the corner, the wall it meets should have gone on first so your looking down the face of the tiles, and at the face of the adjoining tile, as opposed to looking down the wall AT the grout line. Just me being fussy but my latest job has had flying colours so far in comparison to others who have recently had such work done and are now a bit gutted :D 

ii) If you own a laser you can set a datum grout line at the bottom course. Then you simply turn the tile upside down, rest it on the floor tile with the finished face to the wall, then mark the tile each end where the laser strikes it and "Bingo!" You cut between the two lines, put the cut edge to the floor tile, and you have a scribed, level tile to lay which means no batten and no puncturing the tanking.

iii) It also means you can tile a whole wall in one sitting with not having to use the 'batten off the first course' method. 

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