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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


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4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Onoff any chance you can measure across the relevant bit.. mine measures 4mm, in case I can fluke it & screwfix ones dont have the foc bit.

 

It ain't normal measuring like this! :) 

 

T30 measures about 6mm at the base, 5mm at the very tip - sides taper / flare:

 

2018-07-17_10-07-23

 

The "T" size should be stamped on the side of the bit.

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Sorry Im not on board here. I see the link, but nowhere does it say the bit is inc neither the specs info or the reviews (afaict).

 

Is this the set of screws with the bit included? if not, can you point me to which/ where to buy from? Its so I know the bit fits the screw, for definite. It just makes total sense for me/ I dont need other bits.

 

Thanks, zoot

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6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Sorry Im not on board here. I see the link, but nowhere does it say the bit is inc neither the specs info or the reviews (afaict).

 

Is this the set of screws with the bit included? if not, can you point me to which/ where to buy from? Its so I know the bit fits the screw, for definite. It just makes total sense for me/ I dont need other bits.

 

Thanks, zoot

 

Page 3 of the Reviews on Oct 27 2017, says it comes with bit.

 

Or go into Screweys and ask to open the box - they will I'm sure.

 

Or buy the 49mm long one Wiha one in my link above.

 

Or buy the packet of 3 Erbauer brand ones @PeterW refererred to:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-impact-screwdriver-bits-tx30-x-25mm-pack-of-3/16646

 

Or one on its own, same make, Wiha as the 49mm long one...but shorter:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-29mm/6581g

 

NB: Wiha is a top quality brand btw. Erbauer is at the cheaper end of things. You've less chance of losing the longer 49mm one of course.

 

Or just believe me it comes with one in the box! :)

 

If you're ordering for home delivery and you're miles from a Screwfix then you're a bit fooked if you only have the one bit and lose it! Could slow / halt the job rather!

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If you're not planning on building a "fleet" of decent 18V tools (Makita etc) then Lidl were doing a 20V Parkside impact driver with 2 batteries for a 1/4 of the price of big name kit.

 

The specs look good, reviews too and it has a 3-year g'tee. Keep the receipt, do this job. If it works great if not get your money back. It won't be compatible of course of you buy another make of say cordless drill later on.

 

Old ad but they still have them now and then:

 

https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/lidl-29th-june-parkside-18v-li-ion-cordless-impact-driver-3999-2231475

 

 

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^ my mate got one of those and it's stonking. Not sure what it's ultimate torque really is, but the motor is chunky and it has no problems with 4" coach screws and the like. Seems as good as my 1/2" 18v DW.

Oh and battery+ charger for £18 is cracking.

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21 minutes ago, Hecateh said:

 

No! That's a ladies drill for ladies! It has 25Nm of torque which is FA for what he's doing. Completely different tool to the impact driver in my link which quotes 180Nm. Thats proper wrist breaking torque. Your Aldi one...well I'd attach to my old chap just for fun!

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Funnily I have never needed an impact driver, I have used one but  my DeWalt drill has about 45Nm and frankly that’s enough to break your wrist if your not careful. It has been known to shear screws off if I don’t set the torque Devise.

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22 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Yep, you get the little T30 but you'll need to put it in a standard magnetic holder shown next to it:

 

2018-07-17_10-02-00

 

 

 

Onoff.. why do I need to put it into one of these magnetic extention things 1st? went to screwfix today.. but couldnt see a bit in box/ opened btm end only tho/ will call mfrs tmrw.

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Ok will get a box of these anyway/ hope I get bonus bit.

 

My makita is good.. as long as its not stupid-tight to get screw in after a 6mm pilot hole, it will suffice for the job with the other one for holes.

 

I priced up C'tex (*therm stuff is their equivalent), batten & PB in T.Perkins today, so things progressing. Will be slow tho.. Im ill & best do job right without rushing.

 

Remind me how PB is best cut? And will I need to get a plasterer in after PB & prior to painting?

 

 

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5 hours ago, joe90 said:

Funnily I have never needed an impact driver, I have used one but  my DeWalt drill has about 45Nm and frankly that’s enough to break your wrist if your not careful. It has been known to shear screws off if I don’t set the torque Devise.

 

What is an impact-driver anyway? is it same as the hammer drill function on my old makita drill driver I wonder..

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It's just easier with the extension bit in before the T30 as else you're trying to get a piddly bit in the drill chuck where it can be pushed deeper into the chuck (as you're using it). With the extension bit the T30 can't be pushed in deeper into the extension. Easier also to centre the bit on the screw as it's not hidden by the chuck. Aka you can see what you're doing.

 

Check you get a T30 bit before you leave S'fix!

 

I cut pb with a Stanley knife. More a case of score deep (I do it against a straight edge, snap to fold it, then cut the paper on the back. Clean up the edge / shave a gnats off with a surform.

 

If your battening is accurate you can use tapered edge pb and then tape and fill and NOT get a plasterer in if cost is an issue.

Edited by Onoff
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Understtod onoff- Ive found an extention thing for the drill bits.

 

What fixings for the 9mm PB > battens?

 

Also taking off this coving.. is the idea to replace with something?

 

[Im still not able to get notifcations of a reply in my hotmail inbox- is this possible?]

 

thanks zoot

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Fag packet sketch but THINK when you set your battens out with regards to corners! The ends of the boards need support for a start. Although 400 centres on the main run its less in the corner to make the join centre of a batten.

 

25mm pb screws would be fine. You can get special bits for the screws so you don't drive too deep into the board.

 

You need to be a little more delicate cutting 9.5mm board out for sockets etc. I use a multitool. You can get away with a SHARP Stanley but try not to break out the back too much or it'll weaken the cut hole and you could get sockets pulling off if you use dry lining boxes.

 

You can cut partly thru then cut from the other side to finish off.

 

I neat pva any such holes cut in pb. You could likely use std 32mm metal back boxes screwed to the original wall tbh with 25mm battens and 9.5mm pb.

 

20180719_153212.thumb.jpg.433c498884e27f95c05bccf52b905b27.jpg

 

Coving...won't the new boarding to up over that area?

Edited by Onoff
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For a cheaper job as in no skimmng, you can "tape and fill" using tapered edge plasterboard. See how the edge of the board tapers:

 

20161106_203657

 

You butt two of these together and end up with a wide depression at the joint.

 

Means if the board edge is seriously damaged you can get away with it :ph34r:

 

SAM_4303

 

You run a strip of self adhesive mesh tape up the joint then fill it with jointing compound (ready mix or powdered) using one of these:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-taping-knife-10-/7427C?

 

That in theory fills the depression with the main face of the board either side of the joint. The idea is minimal sanding is then required before you paint.

Edited by Onoff
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