zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Posted July 17, 2018 Onoff any chance you can measure across the relevant bit.. mine measures 4mm, in case I can fluke it & screwfix ones dont have the foc bit.
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Onoff any chance you can measure across the relevant bit.. mine measures 4mm, in case I can fluke it & screwfix ones dont have the foc bit. It ain't normal measuring like this! T30 measures about 6mm at the base, 5mm at the very tip - sides taper / flare: The "T" size should be stamped on the side of the bit.
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Posted July 17, 2018 Bugger.. mine won't work then. So I refer to my previous Q: bit in with the screwfix x100 jobs? & if not- where are those screws with bit-in-with obtained from??
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) Bit on its own: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-49mm/7540g Comes with the Torx bit req'd - read the reviews etc. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-50mm-100-pack/1066H? Edited July 17, 2018 by Onoff
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Posted July 17, 2018 Sorry Im not on board here. I see the link, but nowhere does it say the bit is inc neither the specs info or the reviews (afaict). Is this the set of screws with the bit included? if not, can you point me to which/ where to buy from? Its so I know the bit fits the screw, for definite. It just makes total sense for me/ I dont need other bits. Thanks, zoot
Onoff Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 6 hours ago, zoothorn said: Sorry Im not on board here. I see the link, but nowhere does it say the bit is inc neither the specs info or the reviews (afaict). Is this the set of screws with the bit included? if not, can you point me to which/ where to buy from? Its so I know the bit fits the screw, for definite. It just makes total sense for me/ I dont need other bits. Thanks, zoot Page 3 of the Reviews on Oct 27 2017, says it comes with bit. Or go into Screweys and ask to open the box - they will I'm sure. Or buy the 49mm long one Wiha one in my link above. Or buy the packet of 3 Erbauer brand ones @PeterW refererred to: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-impact-screwdriver-bits-tx30-x-25mm-pack-of-3/16646 Or one on its own, same make, Wiha as the 49mm long one...but shorter: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-29mm/6581g NB: Wiha is a top quality brand btw. Erbauer is at the cheaper end of things. You've less chance of losing the longer 49mm one of course. Or just believe me it comes with one in the box! If you're ordering for home delivery and you're miles from a Screwfix then you're a bit fooked if you only have the one bit and lose it! Could slow / halt the job rather!
Ferdinand Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 You can of course put the T30 bit straight into the jaws of the drill, but that is about Plan Z. In anycase a set of drill screwdriver, with the magnetic holder, will only be a few £££. Perhaps £10. F
dpmiller Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 Don't skimp on a few quid for bits. Heck, methinks you'll be shopping for a new drill sooner rather than later... Got a Lidl or Aldi nearby?
Onoff Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 If you're not planning on building a "fleet" of decent 18V tools (Makita etc) then Lidl were doing a 20V Parkside impact driver with 2 batteries for a 1/4 of the price of big name kit. The specs look good, reviews too and it has a 3-year g'tee. Keep the receipt, do this job. If it works great if not get your money back. It won't be compatible of course of you buy another make of say cordless drill later on. Old ad but they still have them now and then: https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/lidl-29th-june-parkside-18v-li-ion-cordless-impact-driver-3999-2231475
dpmiller Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 ^ my mate got one of those and it's stonking. Not sure what it's ultimate torque really is, but the motor is chunky and it has no problems with 4" coach screws and the like. Seems as good as my 1/2" 18v DW. Oh and battery+ charger for £18 is cracking.
Hecateh Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-12v-li-ion-cordless-drill/p/096353211655500?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsZXG75mo3AIVwR4bCh2XvwxFEAQYAiABEgKjJPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLWgz_6ZqNwCFRa6GwoddWUEbA one here from Aldi £29.99 with free delivery
Onoff Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 21 minutes ago, Hecateh said: https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-12v-li-ion-cordless-drill/p/096353211655500?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsZXG75mo3AIVwR4bCh2XvwxFEAQYAiABEgKjJPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLWgz_6ZqNwCFRa6GwoddWUEbA one here from Aldi £29.99 with free delivery No! That's a ladies drill for ladies! It has 25Nm of torque which is FA for what he's doing. Completely different tool to the impact driver in my link which quotes 180Nm. Thats proper wrist breaking torque. Your Aldi one...well I'd attach to my old chap just for fun! 2
Onoff Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) Still got 'em in my Lidl. So £37.99 all in. 2.0Ah battery btw: Edited July 18, 2018 by Onoff
joe90 Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 Funnily I have never needed an impact driver, I have used one but my DeWalt drill has about 45Nm and frankly that’s enough to break your wrist if your not careful. It has been known to shear screws off if I don’t set the torque Devise.
dpmiller Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 but that's the thing with an impact- your wrist doesn't feel the torque... 2
zoothorn Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 22 hours ago, Onoff said: Yep, you get the little T30 but you'll need to put it in a standard magnetic holder shown next to it: Onoff.. why do I need to put it into one of these magnetic extention things 1st? went to screwfix today.. but couldnt see a bit in box/ opened btm end only tho/ will call mfrs tmrw.
zoothorn Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 Ok will get a box of these anyway/ hope I get bonus bit. My makita is good.. as long as its not stupid-tight to get screw in after a 6mm pilot hole, it will suffice for the job with the other one for holes. I priced up C'tex (*therm stuff is their equivalent), batten & PB in T.Perkins today, so things progressing. Will be slow tho.. Im ill & best do job right without rushing. Remind me how PB is best cut? And will I need to get a plasterer in after PB & prior to painting?
zoothorn Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 5 hours ago, joe90 said: Funnily I have never needed an impact driver, I have used one but my DeWalt drill has about 45Nm and frankly that’s enough to break your wrist if your not careful. It has been known to shear screws off if I don’t set the torque Devise. What is an impact-driver anyway? is it same as the hammer drill function on my old makita drill driver I wonder..
Onoff Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) It's just easier with the extension bit in before the T30 as else you're trying to get a piddly bit in the drill chuck where it can be pushed deeper into the chuck (as you're using it). With the extension bit the T30 can't be pushed in deeper into the extension. Easier also to centre the bit on the screw as it's not hidden by the chuck. Aka you can see what you're doing. Check you get a T30 bit before you leave S'fix! I cut pb with a Stanley knife. More a case of score deep (I do it against a straight edge, snap to fold it, then cut the paper on the back. Clean up the edge / shave a gnats off with a surform. If your battening is accurate you can use tapered edge pb and then tape and fill and NOT get a plasterer in if cost is an issue. Edited July 18, 2018 by Onoff
Onoff Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 Pretty much how I cut pb: I don't have a long on T square like that though! 1
zoothorn Posted July 19, 2018 Author Posted July 19, 2018 Understtod onoff- Ive found an extention thing for the drill bits. What fixings for the 9mm PB > battens? Also taking off this coving.. is the idea to replace with something? [Im still not able to get notifcations of a reply in my hotmail inbox- is this possible?] thanks zoot
Onoff Posted July 19, 2018 Posted July 19, 2018 (edited) Fag packet sketch but THINK when you set your battens out with regards to corners! The ends of the boards need support for a start. Although 400 centres on the main run its less in the corner to make the join centre of a batten. 25mm pb screws would be fine. You can get special bits for the screws so you don't drive too deep into the board. You need to be a little more delicate cutting 9.5mm board out for sockets etc. I use a multitool. You can get away with a SHARP Stanley but try not to break out the back too much or it'll weaken the cut hole and you could get sockets pulling off if you use dry lining boxes. You can cut partly thru then cut from the other side to finish off. I neat pva any such holes cut in pb. You could likely use std 32mm metal back boxes screwed to the original wall tbh with 25mm battens and 9.5mm pb. Coving...won't the new boarding to up over that area? Edited July 19, 2018 by Onoff
Onoff Posted July 19, 2018 Posted July 19, 2018 (edited) For a cheaper job as in no skimmng, you can "tape and fill" using tapered edge plasterboard. See how the edge of the board tapers: You butt two of these together and end up with a wide depression at the joint. Means if the board edge is seriously damaged you can get away with it You run a strip of self adhesive mesh tape up the joint then fill it with jointing compound (ready mix or powdered) using one of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-taping-knife-10-/7427C? That in theory fills the depression with the main face of the board either side of the joint. The idea is minimal sanding is then required before you paint. Edited July 19, 2018 by Onoff
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