Jeremy Harris Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I still have an old (as in late 1960s) Vox AC30, and it still works! I reckon you've done a bloody marvellous job, and this thread is a brilliant inspiration for others. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 Ah thanks guys.. I recently had two cover shots too for Guitarist (I make for the best ampmaker, may well be in Europe- Rift, as well as other makers): 2 more Mods then I'll whip 'em off.. back to proper building-! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Ah thanks guys.. I recently had two cover shots too for Guitarist (I make for the best ampmaker, may well be in Europe- Rift, as well as other makers): 2 more Mods then I'll whip 'em off.. back to proper building-! Leave em up! Can't you tell we're all impressed? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 5 hours ago, zoothorn said: Update (paid work sudden influx/ hence delay to posts apologies.. not done a huge lot since either!) Good suggestions chaps- went with the board idea up quick after tiles whacked on underside.. seemed the way: so tiled the trickier kitchen side. Gaggia Classico YES !!! Did someone mention tiles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: Ah thanks guys.. I recently had two cover shots too for Guitarist (I make for the best ampmaker, may well be in Europe- Rift, as well as other makers): 2 more Mods then I'll whip 'em off.. back to proper building-! I will admit to being a bit of a Gibson fan, too. I still have the Gibson Hummingbird that I bought on HP around 1970. Not my favourite guitar, but it's close. The favourite is the first guitar I owned, a Christmas present when I was 12, a 1953 Melodija Menges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 Another classic muppets.. they just never age! had to look up 1953 Melodija Menges .. very cool indeed- spanish made, I assume? The amp behind the tasty gretsch is a 1948 fender V-front spot-on replica.. Rift got 9/10 review (with "outstanding cabinet")- a trickybitch to make. Anyway back on board. Onoff re. pB finishing: is the idea effectively to fill each black screw indent flush to the pB, & fill the taper dips with the huge pink knauff bag (got my huge screwfix spatula primed) & get flush to pB.. then its all ready to paint-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 (edited) Not sure what the Knauf stuff is you have but probably ok. One of these? I'd be using Gyproc Easi-fill as recommended to me on this forum. You can get it with different numbers after it e.g Easi-fill 20 with a working time of 20 minutes. Easi-fill 60 = 60 minutes. Pitt you're not nearer as I've 3/4 of a bag left here. The Knauf will likely be just as good. Run your hands over all the screws and if they're not set them just under flush with your special pb bit in the cordless drill. Watch out for screws that have gone in on the piss. Fill each black screw with a smear of filler. Use whatever, an old credit card can be good for this. On the flat face wall where two tapered edges meet, tape the join and fill with the wide joint "spatula". The better you do it the less sanding and mess you'll make. As to the external corners, good luck with this as I don't know how you'll get it looking good without corner beads mentioned many times before! Just found this guide which says it all...with pictures! https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/walls/how-to-install-corner-beads/ It does not matter whether you have two square edges meeting at the corner, two tapers or one of each! When done sand. Not trying to spend your money but these are brilliant, again if you were nearer etc. The vacuum attachment makes it pretty much dust free: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86220? It takes special open weave sanding "mesh" sheets and the dust gets sucked through as its created. Just brilliant. Aldi/Lidl or the diy sheds will do a version that takes standard sandpaper but it'll be a lot dustier! For example: https://www.screwfix.com/p/aluminium-hand-sander-84-x-240mm/12688? Paint with a high opacity paint for new plaster like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leyland-5L-Matt-Super-Leytex-High-Opacity-Ideal-For-New-Plaster-White/112546918401? Again recommended to me on here. Mist coat first (or splash out on plasterboard sealer £££). This Leytex stuff has excellent coverage and allows you to see any imperfections and fill & make perfect. This might be alright on a budget: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-trade-bare-plaster-paint-brilliant-white-10ltr/51004 Top coat paint of your choice. Something for kitchens I'd suggest. Edited October 14, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 Great help there Onoff.. yes the knauff stuff is 'joint filler' simple as, no 'premium' or anything.. a huge bag I'll have 4/5ths of it left. Isn't it too late to think of the corner strips now I've tiled up to them? I didn't realise they were so quick/ simple to fit or I'd have probably have done that before tiling (maybe I missed a link before- did you add the 'how to' link above, before?). I only have tiled corner > meets pB corners to consider.. no pB > pB (tho great info for future ref). cheers, zootH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 (edited) This is pretty minimal in terms of size: https://www.screwfix.com/p/internal-drywall-bead-2mm-x-2-5m-5-pack/17010? One thing I'm not sure of is how far back the tapered edge face is from the main face of the pb. Plastic is best in this situation as it won't rust of course! Edited October 14, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 @zoothorn You don’t need metal or plastic bead unless you are skimming. You our could use dry line reinforcing tape which is normally used on taper board edges Corner Tape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Sorry just seen you’ve no external corners so just fill away !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 18 minutes ago, PeterW said: @zoothorn You don’t need metal or plastic bead unless you are skimming. You our could use dry line reinforcing tape which is normally used on taper board edges Corner Tape Disagree. Filled corners might look alright now but won't take a knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 18 minutes ago, PeterW said: Sorry just seen you’ve no external corners so just fill away !! Have another look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 12 hours ago, Onoff said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leyland-5L-Matt-Super-Leytex-High-Opacity-Ideal-For-New-Plaster-White/112546918401? Screwfix have 10 l of this (or something very similar definitely Leyland Trade) (White or Magnolia) for £16.99 https://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-contract-matt-emulsion-paint-brilliant-white-10ltr/33680#_=p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 @PeterW the prob I have though Peter, is although I've no pB-meeting-pB corners (just pB meeting tiles) I have rough edges of the pB & some paper edges jutting up along here/ fallible. I can't use a upvc or metal corner, I don't think, as there is no room on the tile edge to fit it now I've tiled flush to the pB edge. I realise now this is a mistake, & I should've fitted the corners > tiled.. but my daft plan thinking I could get away as I've done (& just fill the edge gaps/ that'll do) has shown me up as an eejet here admittedly. So its a rescue job now the tiles are on. The only thing I can think is to get the upvc corners, cut half off (would have gone under tile edge) & fit solely to the pB edge.. if brave I could stanley knife a slim trench under tile edge, leave a few mm's of upvc on this side & tuck in.. hmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 What about a plain upvc white trim up that edge? For example: https://www.eurocell.co.uk/trims-and-cills/trims-quadrants-and-angles/25mm-d-mould-in-white-x-5m? Or a strip of timber stained to match the worktops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 On 14/10/2018 at 13:17, Onoff said: This is pretty minimal in terms of size: https://www.screwfix.com/p/internal-drywall-bead-2mm-x-2-5m-5-pack/17010? One thing I'm not sure of is how far back the tapered edge face is from the main face of the pb. Plastic is best in this situation as it won't rust of course! Onoff do I nail this stuff to the pB? I guess whta type of nails is important as to adding height/ then all needing plastering over. Just to reiterrate: I -only- have 6 reveal edges like this to finish, all tiles-meeting-pB (so knocks n/a as tiles will provide a hard edge).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 On 14/10/2018 at 23:01, Onoff said: What about a plain upvc white trim up that edge? For example: https://www.eurocell.co.uk/trims-and-cills/trims-quadrants-and-angles/25mm-d-mould-in-white-x-5m? Or a strip of timber stained to match the worktops? Both good ideas I think, but with the white trim (that I just binned 3.5m of!!) I'm just not sure about such a 'cheapy' finish, being so visible- this stuff I used ass the splashback ok as its tucked away. The rim around, of 1" maybe white to blend with tiles is defo a good suggestion. If I used the timber.. what would I attatch it with? If the tiles weren't 'Contoured, Insane Asylum Reclaimed' as I went for.. I could just use a series of cut 1" wide tile sections. Hmmm. My OCD is kicking in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 Whatever you're proposing is then now "unconventional" as in its not the norm! You should have used proper tile trim at the outset as you now realise. I was half wondering if you could still use convetional tile trim but hide the perforated side by filling and creating a bell mouth effect edging the window. Attach with small smears of "No Nails" type grab adhesive. That'd take some deft trowel work! You'd need to mask up the trim pre filling / painting the wall. In this pic then, ignore the tile above the trim and imagine that stuck to the pb. If you use timber then again attach with small blobs of "No Nails" type grab adhesive. Chrome angle? Would match the tap! Again fix with grab adhesive. Picked at random. https://www.northantstools.co.uk/product/geneisis-polished-chrome-aluminium-self-adhesive-edge-protector-2-5m-eaa100-91-10mm-x-10mm? Tbh with your woodwoorking skills I reckon stained timber. Maybe distress it a bit, wavy, bark like rear edge etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 UPVC unequal angle would look good too - 20x10 in 2mm uPVC would finish the tile edge too and not look obtrusive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 Alas I just can't see how any of these suggestions I could actually do. The tile pic above is n/a as the tiles are set.. there's nothing I could 'tuck' this "U" shaped piece of metal into surely so I don't understand this suggestion or the 'L' shaped metal corner (but where would this go- under tiles somehow??). Stained timber- but how would this be attatched? I have bought the screwfix 9.99 plastic corners, but again I just can't see how I can use it (or how to attatch it, nails just into the pB? surely not). The reason I didn't use the corners before the tiling job, as would now seen to be perfectly simple, is I had no idea of the process/ never used before, had no idea they attatched to the pB face prior to tiling so would stay put.. I thought they'd just fall down/ a nightmare to use without any experience of fitting them before. With any of these 'L' shaped corners I cannot understand why the suggestions of these type, such as PeterW's below are being made (to go -over- the tiles??)- I must be missing something glaringly obvious. again. On 16/10/2018 at 07:37, PeterW said: UPVC unequal angle would look good too - 20x10 in 2mm uPVC would finish the tile edge too and not look obtrusive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Yea - just bond over the tile edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 Sorry Peter I'm not on board here. What does bond over tile edge mean? but bond what to the tile edge? I can't add any of the "L" shaped corner suggestions I don't think, as the tiles are set in place, if that's what you mean.. I'm only going to progress with.. a sketch (or a bodge job me guessing- I don't want to mess this up). Onoff can you come up trumps here-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Bond it over the front edge of the tile and onto the wall. It will cover the adhesive/grout behind the edge of the tile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 What aren't you getting? Stick the feckin angle on with snot, jizzum or blue tac: If you use the stuff I suggested you will need to cut one side off with a Stanley - like you suggested. Stick the remaining side to the pb with the corner nib level with the tiles. Then back fill the edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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