PeterW Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 Are they rotten or have they just got wet and discoloured ..??? Can you dig bits out with a screwdriver ..?? You could always cut the ends off so they end where the wall is, and then run a pair of new ones lengthways along the edges when you can get a couple or even use floor boards and make sure they are treated with preservative when you do the rest of the building. Looking very good though ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Old roof on.. now the tricky bit/ PIR & osb (felt last). I mean I don't know how I can even haul up 1 osb, so I might tarp it until I've a clear method sorted out.. but would be nice to get it completed before weather breaks. I do have a load of gap front-side to sort out too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Is the PIR 50mm thick..? Screw a 3x2 on the edge of those boards all round and the ridge and then slide the PIR up on to the roof. Then same with OSB, just lift and slide. Couple of clamps will stop it moving whilst you get the screws in. For the stream side, put the 3x2 on first, then fix a couple of scrap battens to the edges to stop the board sliding into the stream and fit it from the high side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Is the PIR 50mm thick..? Screw a 3x2 on the edge of those boards all round and the ridge and then slide the PIR up on to the roof. Then same with OSB, just lift and slide. Couple of clamps will stop it moving whilst you get the screws in. For the stream side, put the 3x2 on first, then fix a couple of scrap battens to the edges to stop the board sliding into the stream and fit it from the high side. Hi Peter- 25mm.. so same idea but a pink roof batten then? So I'm not quite on board with the purpose: is your idea a ledge to sit the PIR onto, just to make the job easier/ to get it up & stay up there? or a structural addition? ------ To answer your Q before.. the ends are bad: many rotten some very rotten, only few have solidity you see. N/g to fix to tho. So my idea was get PIR on & osb on (screwed from osb down thru PIR into t&g roof).. then on the problem ends: instead of fixing down to them, sandwich them between a pink batten rail underneath, 2 of both sides, then long screws down from surface, From osb > via PIR > via rotters > into batten. So rotters squished between, not fixed-to. Ive spaced enough good ends t&g's -just enough- equally along to provide some solid wood so the sandwich won't squish the rotter ends flat. But this idea might be utter balls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 That will work but I would do the Batten Sandwich to start with and clamp both sides of the timbers and also edge all round the PIR with battens as it will make it stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 1 hour ago, PeterW said: That will work but I would do the Batten Sandwich to start with and clamp both sides of the timbers and also edge all round the PIR with battens as it will make it stronger. Yup I'm with you.. was thinking the same an hour ago too. The PIR only needs to fill the actual area above the inside, doesn't it? I mean extending it over the forward porch roof area is effectively wasted, & both ~15cm side overhangs-? Reason I ask is I'm not gonna fill entire roof with my 2x PIR, & my 2x osb's. Osb the bigger problem obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Yep just the inside area. Should have enough to do that. You’ll need at least 3 sheets of OSB for the roof - how much have you got ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 12 hours ago, PeterW said: Yep just the inside area. Should have enough to do that. You’ll need at least 3 sheets of OSB for the roof - how much have you got ..? Only 2 goddamit. I thought that would be more than enough until starting the t&g roof/ all been on a pallet under a tarp, roof at btm you see. I can think the osb is best attatched ontop, to -two- rails of pink batten for each roof side: one ontop @ rotter edges as said & another twds if not at the ridge. Or would it be sufficient do you think to just do one ontop @ the rotter edge.. & everywhere else just whack in 50mm screws from osb thru PIR into the t&g. Idf so, I might be able to patchwork-up the remaining vacant osb area with offcuts.. like I did on the ground PIR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 I would edge all round the OSB area with Battens. Go from inside to outside with the screws - will only need 30mm then - and then OSB into the battens from outside again using 30mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 7 hours ago, PeterW said: I would edge all round the OSB area with Battens. Go from inside to outside with the screws - will only need 30mm then - and then OSB into the battens from outside again using 30mm Trouble is with this idea I haven't got any edge structure to screw into (rotten).. so needs to be a screw thru rot > into other pinko I think Peter. What length felt screws? might seem a trivial Q, but Ive bought 20mm but maybe 13mm diddy ones better? worried about any more splitting of the 18mm t&g's.. they're peppered with splits from pervious (sharp) nails, but not enough to be n/g: its a solid roof as it having repositioned nail fixings via pilot holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Felt is going over the OSB over the PIR... So 20mm will be fine and going nowhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: Felt is going over the OSB over the PIR... So 20mm will be fine and going nowhere. Actually into 11mm osb of course not 18mm t&g.. so surely 20mm is way OTT, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 No they will go into the OSB and the foam, or the OSB and then the battens around the edges Stop over thinking it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: No they will go into the OSB and the foam, or the OSB and then the battens around the edges Stop over thinking it Ah yes your right. ok thanks! I over-prep I admit just in case I daft it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 Got my pinko rails on all around both roof sides (& my rotter sandwich went great/ pinkos under lip L & R/ solid).. & both PIR's on.. & 1 osb on too, on the easy side. Flat out all day to do this. Looking murky overhead tho so tarped it.. dammit. Not easy on the stream-side: its 2-stage ladder max extended, & sitting on osb roof is pretty slidy! jeepers almost slid off into the rocky piddle. One last step I'd like to do as a belt & braces peace-of-mind addition, is fix a metal (ideally) vertical rail on the outside L & R, twds front near the LIFT-OFF roof bit, to tie all the logs to down to the base (& up to the roof too if I could as its only nailed to the joists, & the joists are only gravity-set in too). Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 Right got my osb top on. Now felting. Any tips? or is it just a case of 4 strips (of 1m W), put a 6" overhang (gutter area) & 1st fasten a row 1" from felt edge along midpoint of roof L side, then pull down over gutter side & fix along edge. Repeat R side. Two ridge strips of 1m will be excessive, but better this than cutting one to 0.5m width maybe-? I got my work cut out stream side, I gotta reach over roof edge @ tippy top of ladder. I think a cricket helmet. Might take my bat up. Musical interlude before last stages.. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 Does anyone know what I do here. I have my two outer sides of my roof L & R felted, a lip nailed on around etc. So my ridge area, yet to be felted, is 1m wide. 50 cm each side. How do I cover this area? I was going to put two 1m sections on each 50 cm (with a 15cm overlap etc = 65cm), the latter one just whacked on with a huge overlap over the 1st so the ridge actually has two layers on/ easiest way surely.. & nail it on. But is this 'wrong'? shouldn't each side have symettrical felt with a ridge piece along or something or is this just for cosmetics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Nothing wrong with a double thickness of felt at the ridge. A strip of lead is the ultimate! I'd put any battens down the slope of the roof so water runs off. Having them lengthways, i.e horizontal and crud just builds up behind them unless you start packing behind them. Just imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 9 hours ago, Onoff said: Nothing wrong with a double thickness of felt at the ridge. A strip of lead is the ultimate! I'd put any battens down the slope of the roof so water runs off. Having them lengthways, i.e horizontal and crud just builds up behind them unless you start packing behind them. Just imho. Hi Onoff thanks I didn't see this info (googling & YT clips before asking felt Q's)- very clear diagram. Ive seen as many clips of non use of the bitchumin adhesive (just a 15cm overlap & maybe doubling up of no. of nails on the top of the join) as with it: is it a must to use this stuff? The reason I wonder whether my method of two strips instead of this diagram, is to do this ^ way means cutting lengthways along my TWO 3.4m lengths (very easy to tear mine), to get two 60cm W strips, to cover each side > to then use one of the 40cm offcuts as a ridge piece = more work, & extra excess, for only 1 thickness of felt @ tip-top ridge. It seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 (edited) The "Cambrian Alpine Chalet" is weatherproof/ felted. So now just the deck area @ front. Scaffold boards: is this the cheapest way? I have 2 old ones, but not long enough to do 2 rows. Are new ones treated, or just left to weather? Their weight if I use these, I think I need support pillars on the front 2 corners (its a cantelevered deck at the mo). Any advice on how to add pillars? I have 3x3 tannalised post timber.. best I use, if suitable. Thanks, zoot. Edited June 12, 2020 by PeterW removed images Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 (edited) New scaffold boards aren't treated. Treat them. If you don't want to go sliding all over (before you fit some handrail) then I really rate Cuprinol Non Slip Deck Stain. Even with handrail it won't stop it getting slippery. Well expensive but literally does what it says on the tin. 1) 3x3s would do, one each end but into a base plate and with a concrete footing again. You won't want to hear that I know (don't care ? ) 2) Just some concrete slabs under the top corner then a diagonal brace down to the chunky 6x6 for the other corner..... 3) How about thinking out of the box...an invert V support coming down to one concrete footing? Edited June 12, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 38 minutes ago, zoothorn said: The "Cambrian Alpine Chalet" is weatherproof/ felted. So now just the deck area @ front. Scaffold boards: is this the cheapest way? I have 2 old ones, but not long enough to do 2 rows. Are new ones treated, or just left to weather? Their weight if I use these, I think I need support pillars on the front 2 corners (its a cantelevered deck at the mo). Any advice on how to add pillars? I have 3x3 tannalised post timber.. best I use, if suitable. Thanks, zoot. Cheapest way will be deck boards - they are very cheap in the sheds and tanalised too so won't rot in the welsh rain.. Your support..? I'd dig a hole inside the deck somewhere near the low edge and just screw a 3x3 to the inside of the frame and concrete the bottom end into the hole as you will never see it. Higher edge I would run a 3x3 down from the furthest corner down to the top of the concrete pad and it will easily brace the deck. It is cantilevered anyway so won't move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 Good suggestions @Onoff . No I didn't want to hear the word 'concrete'! I'm certain, having put all my weight on the deck on a step ladder without worry, only a tiny bit of 'down' bend of the deck.. that I only really need 'helping' support posts as an extra safety aspect. Not a full-on concrete base one.. I just can't afford tbh. I could even shove X between the upper corner, only being 1ft here. So let's say its just one, the RHS lower-slope deck corner needing a post 'aid'. Do you think a metal 3x3 shoe with spike on, hammered into ground, cut the top of post off flush > push under > & bracket-fix it to deck cnr? (I had this in mind.. but wondering if its a good enough idea, &/ or anything else simple ~similar tbh). thanks- zH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 5 minutes ago, PeterW said: Cheapest way will be deck boards - they are very cheap in the sheds and tanalised too so won't rot in the welsh rain.. Your support..? I'd dig a hole inside the deck somewhere near the low edge and just screw a 3x3 to the inside of the frame and concrete the bottom end into the hole as you will never see it. Higher edge I would run a 3x3 down from the furthest corner down to the top of the concrete pad and it will easily brace the deck. It is cantilevered anyway so won't move. That's a great idea.. using the concrete cabin corner pad: so a big diagonal strut for the big-slope RHS? I don't have room to do this on the 'higher' (LHS) corner, so, I think you must be referring to the big-drop RHS when you say 'higher edge'? RHS when you look at My Cambrian Alpine Chalet from the front I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Like this Short one on the left into concrete. Long angled one on the right to the pad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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