Egger Protect has swollen...what now?

[mvincentd]

I'm not entirely surprised given what winter threw at us and the time it's been vulnerable but my 22mm Egger Protect floor boarding has swollen along the edges, meaning each 600mm width of board  is now effectively dished by about 3-4mm.  It's glued and 5 screws per board (corners and centre) onto the metal web joists (600mm centres).

 

Removal and replacement might not be so easy based on initial test....good glue colluding with unwilling screws resulting in stripped heads.

 

IF I could sink screws further in, would it be realistic to take an electric planer to the high spots and reduce them.  If I got within a 2mm tolerance say, would that be good enough to then either lay an engineered wood floor...or perhaps 9mm ply overboard and rubber floor. ?

 

Just overboarding the Egger with more 22mm floorboard is an unattractive way of solving the problem because i'm fighting for every last mm of headroom!

[PeterW]

Can you get the screws out..?? if so, just take them out and plane the edges

[Mr Punter]

If you are completely in the dry, try a floor sander.  What are the floor finishes?

[jpinthehouse]

hi 

We have the same problem because of the bad weather, we are going to run the planer over the high spots, mainly the joints 

[mvincentd]

Thanks for suggestions.

I just spoke with a floor fitter/tiler who favours using a spot of self levelling compound, which seems to make decent sense.

[DanielShepherd]

On 07/06/2018 at 14:43, mvincentd said:

Thanks for suggestions.

I just spoke with a floor fitter/tiler who favours using a spot of self levelling compound, which seems to make decent sense.

 

How did this work out for you as no self levelling compounds are supposed to apply to the melamine like coating on Egger Protect. 

[mvincentd]

On 16/08/2021 at 18:04, DanielShepherd said:

 

How did this work out for you as no self levelling compounds are supposed to apply to the melamine like coating on Egger Protect. 

Late reply, but for completeness of info....I sanded edges then overboarded with 9mm ply which then took a levelling compound, onto which Forbo Marmoleum (old fashioned lino) was glued.

So, no comment re self levelling onto egger protect, sorry.

[epsilonGreedy]

On 16/08/2021 at 18:04, DanielShepherd said:

 

How did this work out for you as no self levelling compounds are supposed to apply to the melamine like coating on Egger Protect. 

 

 

I wonder why?

 

Could it be an adverse chemical reaction with the plastic coating or is the warning due to probable lack of adhesion?

[Mr Punter]

27 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

 

I wonder why?

 

Could it be an adverse chemical reaction with the plastic coating or is the warning due to probable lack of adhesion?

 

Strange because I recall that you can tile on it.

[Nickfromwales]

I’ve never risked it. I always use plywood as a base for tiling or levelling fixed down rock solid with a full bed of PVA, combed over with a 3mm notched mosaic trowel, and screwed down at 100-120mm centres ( 18mm vs 22mm ).

Other tilers have been on the same jobs as me and theirs have cracked or lifted anf mine have stayed bombproof. 
Why risk anything else? 

[epsilonGreedy]

4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Why risk anything else? 

 

 

My scenario is a little different. In an upstairs bedroom I intend to finish the egger flooring with bamboo sheets as used by other forum members e.g. @Jeremy Harris. I think Jeremy glued his (18mm) bamboo sheets down.

 

However in one section of my floor where water stood the Egger joints have swollen and I think I will still have a 2 to 3mm of bow after the joints have been planned down. I was hoping that a bit of levelling compound plus a thick coat of glue would fill the 3mm dips.

 

p.s. I have never done flooring or leveling before and I am just speculating on how to approach the job.

[joe90]

18 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

and I think I will still have a 2 to 3mm of bow after the joints have been planned down.

Depends how much you need to do but I would hire a floor sander with roughest paper to take off the worst (which will give you the best surface to glue too), 1 or 2 mm of bow with glue and bamboo flooring would be acceptable to me. I glued oak flooring to a screed that was out by 3mm at worst and the glue for than coped well. I agree with @Nickfromwales about tileing re ply but wood flooring is more forgiving.

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said:

 

My scenario is a little different. In an upstairs bedroom I intend to finish the egger flooring with bamboo sheets as used by other forum members e.g. @Jeremy Harris. I think Jeremy glued his (18mm) bamboo sheets down.

 

However in one section of my floor where water stood the Egger joints have swollen and I think I will still have a 2 to 3mm of bow after the joints have been planned down. I was hoping that a bit of levelling compound plus a thick coat of glue would fill the 3mm dips.

 

p.s. I have never done flooring or leveling before and I am just speculating on how to approach the job.

Ah, gotcha   

Just electric plane the shit out of it and the rest can be taken out with the adhesive that you use to lay the flooring. ?. 

I would not use levelling compound onto the egger as that will be guaranteed to break up over time and the floor will become decoupled any drive you crazy. 
Best policy here is to over order on the adhesive to allow you to bed the adhesive thinly with a trowel where the planing has occurred. 
Use some SBR mix ( 25% water / 75% SBR ) to size the open chipboard first and really let it soak in and dry fully before applying the flooring adhesive. 
That will be ‘supersonic’