RichS Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 But as the whole area is roofed over I assume that connected to a ground line.?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 @PeterStarck Well I suppose that was the best result but still a major pain in the arse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 9 minutes ago, RichS said: But as the whole area is roofed over I assume that connected to a ground line.?? The roof is the original cow-shed roof, we knocked through the clear GRP roof-lights and dropped the boom in through them. No ground-line needed. The roof was then stripped once the concrete had cured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Aha, sneaky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 2 hours ago, RichS said: @PeterStarck Well I suppose that was the best result but still a major pain in the arse Too true! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Due to do this next week and my groundworks guy had mentioned self levelling concrete today, but I knew I had read a bad story. He was actually mentioning that to make it easier to get flat, I thought we could power float it but he seems to think that would help? I have my DPM laid under the full EPS system hence I will not have on in the formwork to help. Hence should I just stick to C25/C30 as normal (thr groundworks guy seems to think this was quite weak too...normally they always used c35) albeit...some people just go with what they know. Any input appreciated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Hasn’t this been specified by the engineer. I would go c35 more cement, creamier finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 As I said earlier in the thread we had C35 power floated for our slab but now I would use self levelling concrete and not bother with power floating. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willbish Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 What floor covering are you having @SuperJohnG? A bull float finish could be sufficient. C35 here 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 9 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Hasn’t this been specified by the engineer. I would go c35 more cement, creamier finish. Its specified as C25/C30 (not clear probably from above). What's the deal with creamier finish? Is that better? 8 hours ago, willbish said: What floor covering are you having @SuperJohnG? A bull float finish could be sufficient. C35 here I'm having LVT which is only 4mm thick with 2mm adhesive so not much to it. I do have 8mm spare if I really need it at door thresholds to do a latex screed if required but was hoping to avoid it. I've set the rebates in the slab so I can lift the sliders up after I know what the slab surface looks like. 8 hours ago, PeterStarck said: As I said earlier in the thread we had C35 power floated for our slab but now I would use self levelling concrete and not bother with power floating. Is this just for ease peter? Think its a better finish? Also can you just choose whatever grade of concrete but to be self compacting?. I was worried about it floating everything if I have self compacting but seems to be that was just because it went in the ring beams first?. I dont have a DPM in the formwork so it was coming concerning me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willbish Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 No reason why you couldn't get it right with just a bull float. Smoothing my slab with the float was the best part of the day. Rest of the team had gone home, just me and my Old man, it was strangely relaxing after the preceding mayhem and nerves. From the video you can see we just did one pass, a second pass would've taken out even more imperfections but wasn't really necessary in my case 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 More cement, creamier consistency, easier to work, gives a nice fatty surface like melted ice cream. C35 minimum. As will did, no need to powerfloat really, if a slab is out of level it isn’t a miracle cure, it will remove small humps and bumps but it won’t alter poorly levelled concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 3 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: More cement, creamier consistency, easier to work, gives a nice fatty surface like melted ice cream. C35 minimum. As will did, no need to powerfloat really, if a slab is out of level it isn’t a miracle cure, it will remove small humps and bumps but it won’t alter poorly levelled concrete. Thanks @Russell griffiths think I'll just go with C35 then, maybe need to think more whether to use self compacting for it. @willbish that's a great video, very helpful and looks like it was pretty chilled at the end. Weather like that would be nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 14 hours ago, SuperJohnG said: Is this just for ease peter? Think its a better finish? Also can you just choose whatever grade of concrete but to be self compacting?. I was worried about it floating everything if I have self compacting but seems to be that was just because it went in the ring beams first?. I dont have a DPM in the formwork so it was coming concerning me. You have to wait for the concrete to go off and then getting a good finish with power floating is weather dependent. It started to rain towards the end of ours being power floated and so we have an area which is less smooth than the rest. It would have been easier for us if we had used self leveling concrete and a bull float. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy H Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 On 03/03/2018 at 17:33, RichS said: @PeterStarck, Yes, if the DPM had been laid on top of the polystyrene it would not have been a problem and the slab would all have been laid and finished in about 4 hours. I have set out the slab as per SE drawings, and indeed as can be seen here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEiRXB81WJM I believe that others have laid their slabs out the same, with insulation on top of the DPM, and wondered if they had encountered any problems. Fortunately I started the pour in the attached garage area and so didn't have any heating pipes to contend with when I had to hastily start removing the steel but it certainly is not an experience that I want to go through again the next time I try to pour. For what it's worth, as I have had to remove all the steel, insulation and damaged DPM from the garage area I was considering laying a second, thinner layer of DPM over the top of the insulation, under the steel, for the next attempt. Obviously I can't do this for the main floor area without removing all the heating pipes, steel etc and then re-instating it. Thanks for the video. Could you let us know which system you used for the insulated slab and whether you would recomend it? Kind regards Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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