Tiling...many questions

[Pocster]

5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Another £100 down the tubes. ?

 

Give me strength. 

Use the laser you've already bought !

But it’s a new toy !!!

Everyone likes new toys !!

 

@Onoff buy it , buy it , buy it !

[PeterW]

20 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

Silver is the new white - innit? 

 

 

 

Looks like glacier white to me with added sparkle...

[nod]

6 hours ago, CC45 said:

I have more or less settled on the £12 for the floor & will use the £18 for the first row on the walls.

 

CTD are part of Jewson - I suspect there's outlets in virtually every Jewson store, so rel easy to pick up.

 

Not sure about the brand - not heard of it before - I suspect @Nickfromwales or @nod will be familiar or otherwise with it.  Just waiting for them!

 

I wasn't intending to prime again...... 

I wouldn’t bother with non slip adhesive A 50 x 10 ml planed batton will be much better

 

I have an account at CTD and find I have to beat them down on the price of adhesives and tiles

There showroom tile prices should be 40% less They usually offer 20% but will negotiate if they think you will come back 

 

if you want to open an account and get almost trade prices Tile giant are pretty good

Carry pretty much the same range as Topps But much cheaper

[PeterW]

Tile Giant are the retail part of Travis Perkins ... TP have a lot of the same for 30-40% of the Tile Giant prices 

[newhome]

19 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Looks like glacier white to me with added sparkle...

 

Sparkle is good ???

 

 

[Onoff]

Another m2 'ish done as per the Welsh Wizard's expicit instruction!

 

I actually got brave tonight and LIFTED 3 tiles I felt were low. More muck and re-levelled. It's not the best but it's the best bit yet!

 

 

 

Had to trim 3 tiles that were tight when I dry fitted them tbh.

 

Out the door tomorrow hopefully!

[Onoff]

11 hours ago, CC45 said:

Apologies to @Onoff for a bit of a highjack....

 

I have now reached a point that I need to get tiling (nothing to do with the fact that @Onoff has started),

 

 

[Onoff]

15 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

The only way you'd be able to do that would be if you made stilts to support the second row of tiles as you cant fit a batten with screws unless you screw through the tanking. Also, you may well find that the batten sticks to the tanking and when you remove the battens you'll take a section of tanking with it.

 

As its you were talking about, lets devise a completely long-winded, new, and ingenious method.................. 

 

For the wet area and pocket shelves I take it youve worked the pocket cuts so the wall tile is a factory edge against the bottom tile trim leading onto the 3^o sloped shelf? Cant grumble, a man after my own heart.

So, you cant ( dont want to ) screw through the tanking to fix a batten.

 

How about laying 3 tiles on the floor with the spacers in to get your measurement from the the top factory edge to the bottom factory edge ( or whatever number of tiles gets you to the first grout line etc ), then transfer that to the wall and add 2mm height for the flag of the tile trim, ( go balls out and add 3mm if I were you, as you can just add a bit more adhesive to the 3^o tile whereas you cant take it off ).

Then get a piece of plasterboard 300mm x ( X ) mm and lay it lengthways on the floor, starting at the 45^o wall and running back towards the WC. Get a block and mark the scribe for the fall into the tray. Get that spot on ( like you need telling ) and then, once happy, fire up the laser set at distance X derived from laying the tiles and spacers out. 

Cut the PB 3mm shy of what you want so if youve accidentally overshot you dont have to pull it all down and re-cut the PB. If you have a deficit in height then its easy you just pack spacers out with stiff cardboard ( cardboard form an empty screw box cut into 1" strips does great, but you could get NASA to laser cut you those out of Unobtanium if you wish ).

Once happy that the PB is "in the zone" you then wedge that against the wall ( batten and some deadman studs off the opposite wall? Dont forget to cover the ends with a plastic bag so they dont take to the tanking ), and then you can start tiling up off the PB. STICK TO THE SLOW SET ADHESIVE AS THESE WILL NEED TWEAKING.

Use 3 spacers per tile so there is no risk of the weight of the ascending courses pushing the spacers into the PB. Tile 4 tiles wide and go up to meet the pocket shelf. As you complete each horizontal course lay a 1200mm level across to see what needs tweaking to horizontal. It won't be perfect because your off a scribed PB so you really do need to check each course and adjust as your going. VERY IMPORTANT TO GET THE FIRST COURSE OFF THE PB PERFECT !

Once at the shelf reveal, chuck the CliveMaster2000 3^o benchsetter against the tile and check with an off cut that you have sufficient clearance ( your tiles are high enough ) and repeat. 

 

This will be the second one of your sermons I print off and laminate for future reference. Mainly so I can keep reading until I fully absorb it all! 

[Nickfromwales]

56 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Another m2 'ish done as per the Welsh Wizard's expicit instruction!

 

I actually got brave tonight and LIFTED 3 tiles I felt were low. More muck and re-levelled. It's not the best but it's the best bit yet!

 

Had to trim 3 tiles that were tight when I dry fitted them tbh.

 

Out the door tomorrow hopefully!

"By jove....I think he's got it !"  . 

[Nickfromwales]

Just now, Onoff said:

 

This will be the second one of your sermons I print off and laminate for future reference. Mainly so I can keep reading until I fully absorb it all! 

Easy. It's just a flag of PB that's one long stilt for the second course and you don't need to affix it / damage the tanking. 

[Onoff]

As SWMBO reckons I'm getting quicker at this... 

 

I thought tonight I'd do a half rather than quarter bag mix...less prep/cleaning. All was going swimmingly well as I slopped down the first trowel load and went to spread it. Then the "Oh Sh!t!" moment as I realised I hadn't primed this last m2!

 

Scooped it back up and back in the pot. Primed the floor and got a desk fan on it hoping to dry it a bit quicker!

[CC45]

there's always that 'getting cocky' phase on every learning curve.

 

My floor tiles arrive next Tuesday.  Got Q a bit to do before they go down.

 

Looking forward to seeing this done.

[Onoff]

Out the door / in the cupboard. 

 

 

 

Tried to ensure the tiles at the threshold are nice and level as I've this irrational worry about the gap under the door against the light! I'll have to sort some temporary (hardwood?) "ramp" until I dig up the floor in the stairs room adjacent to minimise the trip hazard. Maybe just a bit of architrave?

 

Am I happy with it...dunno. Lets see when the grout goes in. Tbh I think grey or silver grout would help take the eye off any faux pas, that's how I'll try and sell it to SWMBO.

[Onoff]

Is this any good for grouting? Been in the shed since time immemorial. (Can't remember if I bought it 30 years ago when I tiled the lean to I built on the first house).

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Triassic]

I’d say yes, my mate has one the same and it’s way more worn than yours.

[Nickfromwales]

8 hours ago, Onoff said:

I'll have to sort some temporary (hardwood?) "ramp" until I dig up the floor in the stairs room adjacent to minimise the trip hazard. Maybe just a bit of architrave?

Get that done sooner than later as that leading edge is now very susceptible to getting chipped

Grout float looks good............."You can do it, Deeds!"  

[Nickfromwales]

8 hours ago, Onoff said:

Tbh I think grey or silver grout would help take the eye off any faux pas

My company motto for the last 2 decades has been "Grout will save the day". Whatever you think you can see when on your hands and knees, diminishes rapidly when you stand up, but when you grout you'll wonder what the worry was.

I STILL, to this day, do exactly the same thing, ( screw eyeballs up and think...."Eeeee, I could get two fag papers in there, shall I cut a new tile"....), but I've already been offered another wet-room off the back of the two I'm doing now so they must look ok to the man. 

[Onoff]

In the cold light of day...

 

Before I laid the last bit last night I dry laid the cut tiles again. Needed to trim 4 or 5 of the cut tiles where I'd lost it a bit as I came across the floor, accumulative error I think they call it! 

 

One cut tile had a shell on the factory edge so I replaced that.

 

I meant to swap out one full tile as it had an odd, 1/2" dead straight, white line in it, under the glaze. I forgot and it got stacked in a pile and then laid...right by the door!

 

Noted a couple of not so clever bits where 4 tiles meet. 

 

So grouting tonight I guess.

 

Ref grout.....I levelled the tiles off when doing them and the excess adhesive oozed out. As mentioned earlier I then used a 1" paintbrush to clean out the joints / lift the excess out and then ran a sponge down the lines. How deep should the grout lines be before grouting? In some areas they're probably the depth of the tile but in others there's maybe only 3mm from top of tile down to the adhesive bed. 

 

Cheers

[Onoff]

On 05/08/2018 at 20:06, Nickfromwales said:

Alwyas butter when it's a floor, even more so if it's heated. Even MORE so if it's wetroom. 

 

As I'm getting close to finishing should I be worried that I didn't butter the back of the tiles under the wet room area?  

 

I'll obviously be super careful grouting and after grouting use clear CT1 at the wall / floor junction. 

 

Are there any grout sealers out there?

 

How will I know if I have a problem?

 

Cheers.

[Ferdinand]

Quote

As I'm getting close to finishing ...

 

What the ... are you talking about a pie? ?

 

With grout, it is attention to detail. My B-I-L is wonderfully anal about this, and spends an extra hour cleaning up all the joints with a cloth round his finger after I have already stopped. Glad to have someone like that around.

 

It just gets harder to get off. (Physically, not metaphorically)

 

Good to see the progress,

 

F

 

 

 

Edited August 9, 2018 by Ferdinand

[CC45]

6 hours ago, Onoff said:

As I'm getting close to finishing should I be worried that I didn't butter the back of the tiles under the wet room area? 

 

I don't think so - I tiled all our kitchen floor in the current house - no back buttering at all & they seem fine.  You do everything 100% so if you've slipped a bit - it will still be ahead of the majority.  You would be unlucky to have any probs although you could just stop larger people from going in there?

 

 

[Onoff]

24 minutes ago, CC45 said:

 

I don't think so - I tiled all our kitchen floor in the current house - no back buttering at all & they seem fine.  You do everything 100% so if you've slipped a bit - it will still be ahead of the majority.  You would be unlucky to have any probs although you could just stop larger people from going in there?

 

 

 

I'm 6'5" and a lump.

[CC45]

So if its ok with you then no one else will cause probs!

[Onoff]

@Nickfromwales, excuse the proper fag packet sketch!

 

I'd wrongly maybe, envisaged not having a 3mm grout line between the top of the tile and trim around the pockets, "?" on the sketch. It was deliberate, I just think it looks better. Would clear CT1 do at that interface? Ta.

 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

No need for CT1, just washing the grout off willl do the job. You grout as normal packing every little nook and cranny, and then when sponging off you just rub it into the gap between the trim and the tile. 

Youll see as you grout that it's all you need. 

Just make sure the 3 degree benched tile is slightly proud of the top of the trim and set back away by about 1mm so you can get grout into the void of the trim / tile and you'll be fine.