flanagaj Posted Sunday at 17:00 Posted Sunday at 17:00 This week is looking nice and dry with daytime temperatures in the region of 14c-18c, but with low temperatures overnight. If the concrete is poured in the morning and I cover the trenches with a concrete frost protection blanket, will that suffice and ensure that the concrete doesn't suffer irreparable damage.
markc Posted Sunday at 17:10 Posted Sunday at 17:10 In trenches you won’t have any problems (unless you are pouring into permafrost) as the ground will be several degrees above freezing. 1
SteamyTea Posted Sunday at 17:13 Posted Sunday at 17:13 From my limited understanding of the chemistry involved, once the water is added, the reactions start. So if warm(ish) when poured in the morning, a frost should not bother it. 1
Russell griffiths Posted Sunday at 17:20 Posted Sunday at 17:20 For footings, pour it in get it level go to pub, that is it. do not cover, waste of money. slab, that’s a different matter, finished floor that’s a very different matter. 2
Oz07 Posted Sunday at 17:51 Posted Sunday at 17:51 Yeh trenches be fine. I'd like to think now we are past the stage of hard ground frosts. I'd like to think we're past the window scraper stage tbh 1
saveasteading Posted Sunday at 23:58 Posted Sunday at 23:58 Agreed. But as I say to everyone. Do not add any water to the supplied mix. That spoils the concrete but also remains as liquid water and might freeze. If using a builder tell them this strictly and also the concrete driver. No added water. If requested the driver insists on a signature to absolve his company. Your concrete will be safe after about 4 hours. @flanagaj you haven't set out the building, let alone dug the trenches. Ambition is great but assume there will be challenges. You may hit obstructions. How are you going to control the concrete level? 1
flanagaj Posted yesterday at 06:43 Author Posted yesterday at 06:43 6 hours ago, saveasteading said: Agreed. But as I say to everyone. Do not add any water to the supplied mix. That spoils the concrete but also remains as liquid water and might freeze. If using a builder tell them this strictly and also the concrete driver. No added water. If requested the driver insists on a signature to absolve his company. Your concrete will be safe after about 4 hours. @flanagaj you haven't set out the building, let alone dug the trenches. Ambition is great but assume there will be challenges. You may hit obstructions. How are you going to control the concrete level? I'm going to bang some vertical rebar into the centre line of the trenches and level the tops with my laser level. I'll spray the tops red to aid visibility. I'm also hiring an inline pump so it can be poured quickly.
saveasteading Posted yesterday at 07:29 Posted yesterday at 07:29 42 minutes ago, flanagaj said: rebar into the centre line OK that works. Lethal to fall on so be ultracareful.You can alternatively bang them in the sides, even using big nails or lath. 1
Russell griffiths Posted yesterday at 08:15 Posted yesterday at 08:15 Side wall of trench is better. if you bang them in the bottom and go over by 10 mm you will never find them. if in the side the concrete tends to build up around the bar like a dam and is more visable. do you have a rotary laser and a receiver if so you fix the receiver on to a chunk of wood with a flat t shape on the bottom, tamp the concrete and put the receiver on it and wait for the beep beep noise. 10-20 mm out of level from end to end over 15m is perfectly acceptable. and will be taken out with the first course of blocks. 1
Oz07 Posted yesterday at 08:22 Posted yesterday at 08:22 Also I think you have to specify a pump mix so they dont just water it down. Best bet is to hire pump and concrete off same firm or at least 2 who regularly work together. 1
flanagaj Posted yesterday at 08:53 Author Posted yesterday at 08:53 37 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Side wall of trench is better. if you bang them in the bottom and go over by 10 mm you will never find them. if in the side the concrete tends to build up around the bar like a dam and is more visable. do you have a rotary laser and a receiver if so you fix the receiver on to a chunk of wood with a flat t shape on the bottom, tamp the concrete and put the receiver on it and wait for the beep beep noise. 10-20 mm out of level from end to end over 15m is perfectly acceptable. and will be taken out with the first course of blocks. I bought a Topcon rotary last year. Invaluable piece of kit.
Nickfromwales Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago On 16/03/2026 at 07:29, saveasteading said: Lethal to fall on so be ultracareful Yup. These should be bent over and sprayed white. Then mark the depth with a fat permanent marker. There’s a high risk of someone slipping and falling into the trench, and if they land on a rebar it’s game over. 🪦 1
flanagaj Posted 3 hours ago Author Posted 3 hours ago I will hammer the rebar into the sides or simply spray lines on the side of the trench.
Nickfromwales Posted 3 hours ago Posted 3 hours ago 39 minutes ago, flanagaj said: I will hammer the rebar into the sides or simply spray lines on the side of the trench. You should really hire a laser for the day tbh. Sooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier.
flanagaj Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 16 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You should really hire a laser for the day tbh. Sooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier. I've got a topcon. It was more for a visual cue when the concrete is being pumped into the trench. 1
Nickfromwales Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 1 minute ago, flanagaj said: I've got a topcon. It was more for a visual cue when the concrete is being pumped into the trench. Make up a staff, with a 6' long piece of 2x2" and fix a square piece of plywood or other to the end, 150mm x 150mm as a pad to rest on the concrete. When you then rest on the surface of the wet pour, to get a level off the laser, it'll 'float' vs using, say, a bit of 2x1; this just pokes into the mix and sinks in, and is a PITA to keep still to see 'what's what'. 1
flanagaj Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Make up a staff, with a 6' long piece of 2x2" and fix a square piece of plywood or other to the end, 150mm x 150mm as a pad to rest on the concrete. When you then rest on the surface of the wet pour, to get a level off the laser, it'll 'float' vs using, say, a bit of 2x1; this just pokes into the mix and sinks in, and is a PITA to keep still to see 'what's what'. Thanks. I am going to knock one of those up tomorrow.
Nickfromwales Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 1 minute ago, flanagaj said: Thanks. I am going to knock one of those up tomorrow. The apprentice will soon become the master. Then you'll be all geared up for the next self build, as you'll be clever as fook. 1
flanagaj Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 14 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: The apprentice will soon become the master. Then you'll be all geared up for the next self build, as you'll be clever as fook. I just need to make sure that the stress of the first one doesn't kill me first!
G and J Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago Before our current build I’d never been involved in a pour. It was a shock, an unpleasant one. I had two really experienced guys with me and mostly helpful and knowledgeable barrel drivers. It was still daft level tough. Now I’ve been through it I’m of a mind that I’d never, ever contemplate it without experienced help.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now