Which concrete blocks?

[flanagaj]

Our vague regs drawings just state the walls will achieve a U value of 0.18W/m2k and consist of high strength 7 concrete blocks.  I went back to the TA, who wasn't much help and he said "when you know what blocks you you are using, I'll run it back through the SAP calcs".  I can't be bothered with the faff and want to know if 7N blocks can be used across the whole build.  Thermalites are expensive and will they really reduce the U values, or would another layer of insulation in the loft offset their better thermal performance.

 

I need to get materials ordered as footings are scheduled to be pulled in 3 weeks time.

[JohnMo]

No one could answer your questions without more information.

 

Ideally your wall build-up drawings are needed, but you sound like you don't have the drawings down to a detailed enough spec, to even consider buying let alone building yet.

[crispy_wafer]

We used plasmor fibolite blocks , don’t seem to be bad blocks to be fair!

[flanagaj]

51 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

No one could answer your questions without more information.

 

Ideally your wall build-up drawings are needed, but you sound like you don't have the drawings down to a detailed enough spec, to even consider buying let alone building yet.

But isn't that what the technical architect is supposed to do?  Building control have signed off the drawings, but still so many questions.  Now I'm beginning to understand why the original architects wanted 10k and this guy only charged 2k

[Nickfromwales]

26 minutes ago, flanagaj said:

But isn't that what the technical architect is supposed to do?  Building control have signed off the drawings, but still so many questions.  Now I'm beginning to understand why the original architects wanted 10k and this guy only charged 2k

Depends on who's wearing the Principal Designer hat?

 

How could you think there was £8k of meat to shave of this role???

[Temp]

What have you agreed with the Architect? Some contracts are limited to getting Building Control Approval, others include construction drawings. These are sometimes the same drawings but not always. The minimum required by Building Control is less than required for construction drawings. 

 

On our house we had to use denser blocks in a few key areas like pillars supporting steel beams and between two windows where loads were higher than normal.

[torre]

You can get a good idea of the difference by going on ubakus or similar, configuring your wall build up and swapping the block type and seeing how the u value changes. 

 

Switching out thermalite for something like fibolite could take you from say 0.18 to 0.19 and if you switched to a dense block even worse. Might sound a small difference for SAP but houses have a lot of wall area so it will suffer. 

 

If you're talking about dense blocks, you'll save on materials but lose some of the difference paying more for labour.

[Iceverge]

Standard dense blocks 7.5N is the norm in Ireland. 

 

Thermalites really add almost no insulation compared to making the cavity just a few mm wider. 

 

They're lighter to lift but crack easier and don't take wet plaster as well. Swings and roundabouts. 

 

100mm dense blocks

175mm cavity batt 36 

100mm Thermalite (0.18) will get you to 0.18W/m²K. 

 

Blocks and insulation~£65.14/m² 

 

If you used 

 

100mm dense block

175mm cavity batt 36

100mm dense block

 

~£48.12 per m²

 

You'd be at 0.174W/m²K

[flanagaj]

I wrongly assumed that regs drawings and construction drawings are the same thing.  This is because my brother in law used the same chap for his drawings.

Just for my own understanding, how do construction details differ from building reg drawings?

 

when I gave our drawings to an SE, he just did calcs for the steels.  He didn’t make any mention of what concrete blocks …

 

 

 

[Mr Punter]

I like medium density aggregate blocks, like Hemelite.  They are a bit lighter than dense concrete and they cut more cleanly with the bolster.  Easy to plaster and render and can be used underground.  They won't help with u values though.

[torre]

8 hours ago, Iceverge said:

Thermalites really add almost no insulation compared to making the cavity just a few mm wider

Swings and roundabouts as you say, but this isn't quite accurate. A 100mm inner leaf of the best thermalites (0.11 W/m²K) is the equivalent of over 30mm of cavity batt 36 and the best 7N blocks (0.18) still close to 20mm equivalent. Multiply that up if you're using 140mm blocks or blocks on the outer too.

 

Also, you might not guess it but even +25mm on the cavity equates to a 2% reduction of floor area in the average size home (around 49m2 per floor versus 50m2).

[Nickfromwales]

35 minutes ago, torre said:

Swings and roundabouts as you say, but this isn't quite accurate. A 100mm inner leaf of the best thermalites (0.11 W/m²K) is the equivalent of over 30mm of cavity batt 36 and the best 7N blocks (0.18) still close to 20mm equivalent. Multiply that up if you're using 140mm blocks or blocks on the outer too.

 

Also, you might not guess it but even +25mm on the cavity equates to a 2% reduction of floor area in the average size home (around 49m2 per floor versus 50m2).

Indeed. I’d rather take the hit on value than lose GIA. 
 

When there’s a distinct lack of wiggle room for going to thicker (or much thicker) superstructures, then airtight + MVHR is the way forward every single time.

 

Airtightness trumps adding slightly thicker insulation, and should be the #1 consideration afaic.

 

Getting the best amount of heat recovery possible is second.

 

When these are in hand, the amount of heat required to keep a happy (comfortable) ambient temp is quite minimal. Then using UFH and a heat pump is a no brainer, in most situations.