dave1967 Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago Just doing what i thought was a simple job for family member. Replaced a screwfix dunham light with pir with a new maine pir light. Connected it up the same . (black to neutral and red to live and the earth) didn't work. Being now told that the new light needs neutral, live and earth and it may have live and switched live as its off a switch. Could this be right?
markc Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago Post a pic of your new light connections, may just need live and switched live linking, but then that could be on all the time. Post a pic of your new light connections
dave1967 Posted 20 hours ago Author Posted 20 hours ago Its just a choc block connector l n and earth
markc Posted 20 hours ago Posted 20 hours ago 23 minutes ago, dave1967 said: Its just a choc block connector l n and earth In that case you don’t need anything else, I had a similar thing a few years ago and you had to “programme” the light by flicking switch on and off a certain number of times to set how you wanted the light to behave … on dusk till dawn, trigger only etc.
Spinny Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago Presumably the switch will need to be on all the time to power the PIR detector. The other route these days is to separate the light and the detector wireless smart home fashion. I see there is even a Quinetic PIR detector (battery powered) with adjustable lux level too - Quinetic PIR Link (Not to mention mm wave radar detectors - not sure how well they go outdoors though)
dave1967 Posted 18 hours ago Author Posted 18 hours ago (edited) Its not working. Ive been told older lights can work with live. To live and switched live to neutral but new lights wont work this way and need a neutral. Is this rubbish? Edited 18 hours ago by dave1967
Nickfromwales Posted 17 hours ago Posted 17 hours ago 47 minutes ago, dave1967 said: Its not working. Ive been told older lights can work with live. To live and switched live to neutral but new lights wont work this way and need a neutral. Is this rubbish? Sounds nonsense. If this is a PIR light then you’d just turn the light switch on and leave the unit powered 24/7. Then you have L & N + E constant power. If you want to turn the switch off, for some reason, then seems an odd choice of light fitting! Switching it back on will provoke a start up time event, every time you do so, but then it’ll go off and into PIR mode. Just turn the light switch on and leave it on. I assume you know you shouldn’t be connecting L and SW L together? Nothing but the factory wiring should be in SW L.
dave1967 Posted 17 hours ago Author Posted 17 hours ago Nothing tripped. Im trying to find out if switched live to neutral on the light is a thing or not.
Nickfromwales Posted 16 hours ago Posted 16 hours ago 39 minutes ago, dave1967 said: Nothing tripped. Im trying to find out if switched live to neutral on the light is a thing or not. A switched live is only a switched live, if you keep flipping the switch. If you flip the switch on, and leave it on, it's then a permanent supply Live is live, comes from the same place, ends up in the same place.
ProDave Posted 15 hours ago Posted 15 hours ago Post a picture of your connections at the light fitting, that should clear this up. 1
dave1967 Posted 14 hours ago Author Posted 14 hours ago I can do but its just earth to earth . red to live and black to neutral. May be a dud light.
FuerteStu Posted 7 hours ago Posted 7 hours ago Could it be a class two fitting (all plastic and no earth). And you're confusing the earth and neutral? Perhaps the wiring you have (red/black + other) is a live, switch live and neutral. I think we'll need the instructions and wiring diagram to confirm.
Nickfromwales Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago PIR lights will usually have a connector block with 4 terminals. 1) earth (usually just somewhere to park the earth that you have at the end of your cable, and not always needed if “double insulated”) 2) N neutral 3) L permanent live 4) SW L switched live Some will have the L disappear into the fitting and feed the sensor, and then the sensor sends the SW L output back to 4. The factory wiring then has the live to the lamp in there too. Some are set up so you don’t see the 4 terminals, as the factory working is contained within the unit, a-la most modern led floodlights, so you only get to give it L, N and E. 9 hours ago, dave1967 said: I can do but its just earth to earth . red to live and black to neutral. May be a dud light. Do you have a link to the exact fitting you bought?
dave1967 Posted 5 hours ago Author Posted 5 hours ago https://searchlightelectric.com/en-gb/searchlight-products/outdoor/outdoor-wall/maine-outdoor-wall-light-black-metal-1-clear-glass-280bk--pir 1
Nickfromwales Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago 2 minutes ago, dave1967 said: https://searchlightelectric.com/en-gb/searchlight-products/outdoor/outdoor-wall/maine-outdoor-wall-light-black-metal-1-clear-glass-280bk--pir Just pics and words unfortunately. Can you take a pic of the instruction manual and post it here? Just take the pic and save it to your photos. Then click add files below the text editor here and it’ll ask you to choose photo.
ProDave Posted 30 minutes ago Posted 30 minutes ago So it is a simple L,N,E connection no need for any switched L. So it should just connect in place of the old lamp.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now