THAT leak

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Back it up Welsh Wizard with facts …. 🤨

They’re all single cell / partially closed, these ‘better’ ones, but are totally different animals to the foams from the sheds.

 

Cheap stuff is like crumbly honeycomb when set, and you can scrape it out with your finger, but the 330 is insanely better and when cured goes a lot harder / stretchier, and has far fewer voids in it.

 

Been using it for years on anything which needs airtight / cold / damp bridging to be resolved. Use it all around my windows when they were changed, and damp disappeared and hasn’t come back, much better. 

[Pocster]

Just now, Nickfromwales said:

They’re all single cell / partially closed, these ‘better’ ones, but are totally different animals to the foams from the sheds.

 

Cheap stuff is like crumbly honeycomb when set, and you can scrape it out with your finger, but the 330 is insanely better and when cured goes a lot harder / stretchier, and has far fewer voids in it.

 

Been using it for years on anything which needs airtight / cold / damp bridging to be resolved. Use it all around my windows when they were changed, and damp disappeared and hasn’t come back, much better. 

Don’t doubt you . But the spec should say something . I did use a soudal one ( so not cheap brand shite ) . I did just 1 glazed unit - I’ll see how it goes ( as the foam is in ) - if I determine the leak is still over the upstands I.e foams doing jack ; I’ll remove the glass next summer scrape out the foam and redo with your suggested weapon of choice . 

[Thorfun]

1 hour ago, Pocster said:

Don’t doubt you . But the spec should say something . I did use a soudal one ( so not cheap brand shite ) . I did just 1 glazed unit - I’ll see how it goes ( as the foam is in ) - if I determine the leak is still over the upstands I.e foams doing jack ; I’ll remove the glass next summer scrape out the foam and redo with your suggested weapon of choice . 

give the tech support department a call? 

[Pocster]

2 hours ago, Thorfun said:

give the tech support department a call? 

I did . I posted on here 

[Onoff]

Illbrück FM330 skins up like rubber and really tough rubber at that. It's actually quite noticeable when you cut it compared to even Soudal products which were my previous goto. 

[SteamyTea]

17 hours ago, Onoff said:

skins up like rubber

Integral skin polyurethane foams do that.

Used for making chair arm rests, and costing the steel hoop in car steering wheels.

If you cut it open, you will find a 2 or 3mm thick skin. 

It is created by temperature difference between the injected liquids that react and foam, and the tooling temperature.

 

With a bit of experimenting you can find the best temperature to heat the can up to get it to either skin on the contact surface or the air interface.

 

Alternatively, and maybe easier, foam up with something strong enough, then coat the outside with non foaming PU.

In effect, creating your own skin on outside.

(Thinking while typing the above, paint the joint with non foaming PU, foam, then paint outside with non foaming)

[Pocster]

19 hours ago, SteamyTea said:

Thinking while typing the above, paint the joint with non foaming PU, foam, then paint outside with non foaming)

I can’t get to the outside of the foam 

Edited Wednesday at 07:25 by Pocster

[SteamyTea]

1 hour ago, Pocster said:

I can’t get to the outside of the foam 

Should have painted it before foaming.

[Pocster]

55 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Should have painted it before foaming.

Paint what ? The underside of a glazing frame sat on an upstand ?

[Pocster]

Noticed damp in the recess . Went outside to look . Only lite rain today . A neighbor ( aka wanker ) had placed some of the cobble stones back at the end presumably to stop the sand washing out . No idea when they did this - but clearly will cause a dam .So clearly still an issue ( can’t say if their block caused the issue but it doesn’t help me ) . Removed blocks and put cone out now ffs . So still an issue - what a bast !

Edited Thursday at 16:40 by Pocster

[Pocster]

Where the cone is now nice toss pot basically put some of my pavers . Can’t possibly have sand on the lane ! Tosser !

[Pocster]

So a plan I had before I’m going to try . Remove blocks on this drawn section . So water can’t pool and run along the wall . A way for it to run off away from the wall .Remember with those 4 courses not in I had zero leaks ! . So it’s water running along the wall base and maybe down the lane the issue ….? 
 

Edited Thursday at 16:57 by Pocster

[Pocster]

So to put it in context ! If you zoom in you can see the green is shiny I.e damp . Yeah I know it’s minimal - but it’s still there . I’ll try my plan out the front for a few months . I know some of you will say “ (expletive deleted) that just seal the concrete in the upstand “ - what concerns me is where the water goes if it can’t get through there …

[Andehh]

Still like my idea of gallons and gallons of water proofing drowning the entire area, after a dry spell!! 😁

[Pocster]

Took out those blocks so the main water escape route is forwards away from the build . Any idea what I could put here ? . A Clark’s drain type cover but with a grill ? 

Edited 16 hours ago by Pocster

[Pocster]

Hmmm . I can’t take enough blocks out to get the water to fall away . What about an anco type drain here ? . The 90 at the end important as can get water to run away with the fall there rather than settling at the corner .

Good plan / bad plan ?

[Pocster]

This as it comes with a 90 

 

 

[Pocster]

Yeah - I’ll try that . Too slow you lot ! 😊

[Bramco]

3 hours ago, Pocster said:

This as it comes with a 90 

 

 

 

 

So are you really going with a stainless grid next to black window frames and those dark pavers?

 

It might be cheap but get yourself an acco with black drain and black cover panels....