Low Ceiling vs Door

[mike2016]

I've 1 door upstairs and my insulation is encroaching on the door to one side at the top edge. This bedroom is at the top of the stairs so the best place for hinges in on the side closest to the OSB wall to allow easier room entry and not kill anyone coming up the stairs! Plus I plan to install wardrobes on that wall.

 

I could do a pocket door or trim the insulation back 800mm and use a standard door but any other options? Thanks! 

[JohnMo]

Can you not move the door, you still have plasterboard etc, it could just look a bodge, if you are not careful - are you allowed to open on a top of stairs - wipe someone out, as you knock them down the stairs?

 

[Mr Punter]

The door will have to open into the room.  It can't open onto the landing.  You could trim the corner off.  Pocket doors are tricky to fit and use.  A floor plan may be useful.

[crispy_wafer]

Move the door over by another 6 inches, it would give you room for boarding and architrave too, edit: woops, sorry just seen the stairs. Ignore

Edited March 27 by crispy_wafer

[Russell griffiths]

Move the door over, anything else is just a bodge, you need to allow for architrave as well, don’t be one of these people with architrave only on one side and the top. 

[Chanmenie]

9 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Move the door over, anything else is just a bodge, you need to allow for architrave as well, don’t be one of these people with architrave only on one side and the top. 

He can’t move the door over because of the stairs 

[TerryE]

What's the problem?

 

We were constrained by BRegs on our landing placement and this is a solid wood fire door because our warm 2nd floor loft is part of our living space.  The architrave and frame liners were a bit of a fiddle (22½° mitres) but nothing that a decent chippie couldn't handle.  I did all of our internal woodwork myself. 

 

I don't think I can recall any visitor even noticing the missing corner.   BTW, the door will have to open into the room and away from the landing as mine is hung. 

 

Edited March 27 by TerryE

[torre]

I'd probably cut the insulation back as a preference for where the door is hinged, but @TerryE's solution is neatly done.

 

(Separate point - the landing didn't look much wider than the door opening so have you checked it is as deep as the stairs are wide for building regs?)

[mike2016]

Thanks all - the photos cut off the landing a bit so I'm sure it's wide enough as the Architect did it!! Putting the hinge on the stairs side of the opening would match what TerryE did although my plan to put wardrobes on the back wall would be more limited but it is a long room so maybe that would work too? 

[TerryE]

You wouldn't have too much probs doing @torre's suggestion. It shouldn't introduce to much of cold bridge as I assume that you've also got insulation between your roof joists. You just need to be careful with your finishing. Where is your VCL?

[torre]

The layout makes clearer what you were saying about wardrobe space - I'd lose the insulation rather than the wardrobe space (you'd need to lose quite a bit of wardrobe width to avoid feeling like you're squeezing around the door)

 

As built does look a fair way from as designed - more like 1900 height than the 2100 planned and you should've had about another stair's worth of landing depth to work with too (and a bit of leeway to move the door). Did you have to make changes along the way? I'd measure that landing depth just to be sure it won't cause a BR headache later.

[mike2016]

The VSL is at the rafters. I changed the insulation type from Kooltherm to Gutex requiring extra depth. Might be missing a step worth of landing too, hadn't noticed that before! It's quite a long room so may just push back the wardrobes but will see....plumber arrives Tuesday so all eyes on that now!!