Pub Stove

[Onoff]

Something I'm looking at up the pub. There is an open fire in the other bar but this stove is the only form of heating downstairs in use when it's not a pub. (Upstairs she and the kids rely on electric oil filled rads). Used to have Calor central heating and cooking but that got too expensive. 

Looking then at the chimney above this inglenook (?) fireplace:

 

 

Not sure if the flue is twin wall?

 

 

Inspection hatch:

 

 

 

 

Some people locally have apparently "boarded" directly above the stove to get more heat into the room.

I was mulling something like this. Either fireproof plasterboard or perhaps better, sheet steel supported by the timbers either side. Then Rockwool batts above. Any thoughts?

 

 

[crispy_wafer]

Register plate.  Steel, disconnect flue and insert through hole.  Though you can cut hole in plate and saw down the middle and slip either side of the pipe and then fashion something to cover the cut if flue pipe removal is a faff.

Edited yesterday at 06:48 by crispy_wafer

[nod]

If you want it Hettas signed They won’t accept plasterboard as fireproof 

Cement board and high temp skim 

[Onoff]

30 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

Register plate.  Steel, disconnect flue and insert through hole.  Though you can cut hole in plate and saw down the middle and slip either side of the pipe and then fashion something to cover the cut if flue pipe removal is a faff.

 

Never heard of it until now. Thanks. Looks like vermiculite board is a goer too:

 

https://shop.vitcas.com/help/free-standing-stove/what-should-i-use-for-a-register-plate.html#:~:text=We recommend using a Vermiculite,flue pipe with a jigsaw.

 

[Onoff]

25 minutes ago, nod said:

If you want it Hettas signed They won’t accept plasterboard as fireproof 

Cement board and high temp skim 

 

Cement board I could do. Not so sure about my skimming skills but I'd give it a go!

 

Going the "register plate" route might allow for easier removal later on. 

[Onoff]

As an aside, seeing how those existing beams are a bit blackened, I wonder if it would be worth screwing some asbestolux board or similar over them, at least for the width of the fire? Not that it's an "open" fire per se. More worried about the heat on them than flames.

[SteamyTea]

TL:DR

 

If you cook the flue too much i.e close to room temperature, they stop work.

 

We used Asbestolux behind and above our saunas.

Worked great, until it exploded.

[SteamyTea]

33 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

cook

Cool.

[Russell griffiths]

The first way to save money would be to stop buying very expensive rubbish logs from the local garage. 
find a good supply and buy a 2m load tipped loose. 

[Onoff]

2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

The first way to save money would be to stop buying very expensive rubbish logs from the local garage. 
find a good supply and buy a 2m load tipped loose. 

 

 

She got given those free from someone I think. Another local supplied the split, locally felled ones on the left. 

Edited yesterday at 09:08 by Onoff

[Onoff]

Seems like there's a number of ways of doing this then.

 

Cement board

Fire board

Steel sheet

Vermiculite board

 

[ProDave]

My own personal view is this is something I would do in my own home, but NOT something I would be doing in someone else's home particularly one that is open to the public as a pub.

 

If the smelly stuff hits the air moving device I would not want to be explaining to a judge why I was doing stove flue work without any qualifications.

[saveasteading]

7 hours ago, Onoff said:

to get more heat into the room

Except that the hot flue is also giving off heat to the room. Box it in and it flies very efficiently up the flue.

Plus if you box it you risk condensation.

Leave it alone, with the added benefit of heeding @ProDave's excellent advice.