Onoff Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 Something I'm looking at up the pub. There is an open fire in the other bar but this stove is the only form of heating downstairs in use when it's not a pub. (Upstairs she and the kids rely on electric oil filled rads). Used to have Calor central heating and cooking but that got too expensive. Looking then at the chimney above this inglenook (?) fireplace: Not sure if the flue is twin wall? Inspection hatch: Some people locally have apparently "boarded" directly above the stove to get more heat into the room. I was mulling something like this. Either fireproof plasterboard or perhaps better, sheet steel supported by the timbers either side. Then Rockwool batts above. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_wafer Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 (edited) Register plate. Steel, disconnect flue and insert through hole. Though you can cut hole in plate and saw down the middle and slip either side of the pipe and then fashion something to cover the cut if flue pipe removal is a faff. Edited November 22 by crispy_wafer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 If you want it Hettas signed They won’t accept plasterboard as fireproof Cement board and high temp skim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 22 Author Share Posted November 22 30 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said: Register plate. Steel, disconnect flue and insert through hole. Though you can cut hole in plate and saw down the middle and slip either side of the pipe and then fashion something to cover the cut if flue pipe removal is a faff. Never heard of it until now. Thanks. Looks like vermiculite board is a goer too: https://shop.vitcas.com/help/free-standing-stove/what-should-i-use-for-a-register-plate.html#:~:text=We recommend using a Vermiculite,flue pipe with a jigsaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 22 Author Share Posted November 22 25 minutes ago, nod said: If you want it Hettas signed They won’t accept plasterboard as fireproof Cement board and high temp skim Cement board I could do. Not so sure about my skimming skills but I'd give it a go! Going the "register plate" route might allow for easier removal later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 22 Author Share Posted November 22 As an aside, seeing how those existing beams are a bit blackened, I wonder if it would be worth screwing some asbestolux board or similar over them, at least for the width of the fire? Not that it's an "open" fire per se. More worried about the heat on them than flames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 TL:DR If you cook the flue too much i.e close to room temperature, they stop work. We used Asbestolux behind and above our saunas. Worked great, until it exploded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 33 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: cook Cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 The first way to save money would be to stop buying very expensive rubbish logs from the local garage. find a good supply and buy a 2m load tipped loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 22 Author Share Posted November 22 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: The first way to save money would be to stop buying very expensive rubbish logs from the local garage. find a good supply and buy a 2m load tipped loose. She got given those free from someone I think. Another local supplied the split, locally felled ones on the left. Edited November 22 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 22 Author Share Posted November 22 Seems like there's a number of ways of doing this then. Cement board Fire board Steel sheet Vermiculite board 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 My own personal view is this is something I would do in my own home, but NOT something I would be doing in someone else's home particularly one that is open to the public as a pub. If the smelly stuff hits the air moving device I would not want to be explaining to a judge why I was doing stove flue work without any qualifications. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 7 hours ago, Onoff said: to get more heat into the room Except that the hot flue is also giving off heat to the room. Box it in and it flies very efficiently up the flue. Plus if you box it you risk condensation. Leave it alone, with the added benefit of heeding @ProDave's excellent advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now