garage door

[gaz_moose]

i am at the stage in my build where i need to start looking at garage doors, i think i would like an electric roller door instead of an up and over style one.

I see a company on ebay called 'rollerdoor.uk' have any of you guys used one of their doors? are these things fairly easy to DIY? 

 

Are there any things i should look out for when deciding what or which company to buy from? i know next to nothing about roller doors so it is blind territory for me sadly. i just want one that works with no fancy bells or whistles that is decent and wont fall apart. 

[joe90]

Yes I had a large (16ft) wide roller shutter door for them, very pleased with it and installed it myself with help from a friend.

[Russell griffiths]

Do you want tough industrial looking, or thin and flimsy, or insulated. 
is it a room you want to work in so needs to be a bit more comfortable. 
you literally only get what you pay for, a £600 rollerdoor will be as thin as a bean tin. 
 

a rollerdoor will require a fair bit of headroom above the door for it to roll up into. 

[gaz_moose]

its for a residential garage on a housing estate. i don't want something usually found on an industrial estate or a kebab shop. but i do want something that isn't rubbish. i did think that you get what you pay for but at the same time i don't want the Landrover equivalent of a roller door 😁 , i was trying to find where the Value for money line is drawn 😐

The garage is only single skin brickwork so i know it will never be economical to heat but the ceiling is to be insulated ( because ive some spare) to make it a bit more comfortable in the winter. 

 

Mr joe90, 

did your door rattle in the wind? did it keep the draughts/weather out etc.. would you buy another one from them? as they seem well priced.

[joe90]

27 minutes ago, gaz_moose said:

Mr joe90, 

did your door rattle in the wind? did it keep the draughts/weather out etc.. would you buy another one from them? as they seem well priced.

It only rattled in very high winds (it was very wide at 16ft) it did keep the weather out. Yes they require 300mm head height for the roller, if you don’t have this 300mm consider a sectional door that slides above the garage. Yes I would buy from them again, a part failed and a new part was sent  straight away.

 

 

Edited September 22 by joe90

[Russell griffiths]

Hormann is a good make, they always look nice at the shows. 
if I was having a roller I would have one. 

[gaz_moose]

ive had a normal up and over horman on an old house and it never gave any trouble.

 

this one is 2.6 / 2.7M wide so i need something fancier than an up and over, i did have a 14ft up and over before but it was knackered and i always worried it was going to fall on my head when stood underneath.

 

Rollerdoor says the top box is 205mm high, i did plan on sticking it up between the joists but overlooked the fact that ive got noggins between the joists. unless i just chop the centre noggin out of the last row?? 😬 

 

good shout on the sectional doors, i didn't realise the track took up so little room.  

 

This is what ive built, excuse the dodgy brickwork its the first thing ive ever really built using them and it does need a going over with some acid.

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

Hormann is a good make, they always look nice at the shows. 

Hormann are in a league above the ad- hoc assemblies. Price tends to be plus 50% accordingly.

Be aware that there may be a gap above and around  the spring allowing air and birds. A boxing may disguise the gap. Just check the detail.

[joe90]

1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

Be aware that there may be a gap above and around  the spring allowing air and birds. A boxing may disguise the gap. Just check the detail.

My  door above had no gap at all, rubber bump strip on the bottom formed a good seal and sides in a draft proof U section. With My recent single Garage I picked a period type up and over, I had to add a rubber strip on the bottom to make more airtight but no gaps otherwise, good mechanics and more in keeping with the garage type.

 

[dpmiller]

Our steel garage came with an insulated aluminium-slat roller door. It's a Garador IIRC which is a subsidiary of Hormann. It's smooth in action, quiet, and reasonably wind-tight.

[gaz_moose]

i drove over to a garage door showroom to have a nose around. 

i think I've decided on a sectional up and over as it would work best. a roller door requires space above the opening for the roller which i don't really have so i would have to lower to opening height and have a massive bit of upvc trim above the door. 

 

 

I'm a bit stuck on what i should put the height as, I did try to pump the ruff sales bird for how its done but she just wanted to send a salesman round 🙄

The roof slopes from right to left and the door is on the front so the brickwork on the right side is higher. i then just cut the bricks to match the angle for the front and back. the joists sit on a 45mm wall plate so i screwed a length of 45 to the bottom of the overhang noggins which gave me somewhere to fasten the soffit.

 

i was going to mount the runners inside the brickwork and not on the back/inside of the pillars.

 

so erm yea, is the height..

A. the lowest side joist

B. the lowest side soffit 

C. 

 

 

[saveasteading]

2 hours ago, gaz_moose said:

, is the height

Sorry, I'm not understanding the question.

 

Does the door come with a frame to sides and top?  Or runners for sides and another closure at the top?

[Roundtuit]

15 hours ago, gaz_moose said:

The roof slopes from right to left and the door is on the front so the brickwork on the right side is higher. i then just cut the bricks to match the angle for the front and back. the joists sit on a 45mm wall plate so i screwed a length of 45 to the bottom of the overhang noggins which gave me somewhere to fasten the soffit.

 

i was going to mount the runners inside the brickwork and not on the back/inside of the pillars.

 

so erm yea, is the height..

A. the lowest side joist

B. the lowest side soffit 

C.

 

Looks like you haven't made it easy for yourself 🙂  Traditionalists would have made a square opening I think.  How about squaring off the height with some sort of lintel at around the same level as the soffit. That will give you a bit of space to play with. I'd run the tracks down the back of the door piers to maintain opening width and avoid damage.

[joe90]

Get the salesman round, he will measure up (his responsibility) and tell you the best way to deal with the slight slope of the roof ( tapered piece of wood making the doorway square 🤷‍♂️)

[TommoUK]

On 22/09/2024 at 11:15, gaz_moose said:

i am at the stage in my build where i need to start looking at garage doors, i think i would like an electric roller door instead of an up and over style one.

I see a company on ebay called 'rollerdoor.uk' have any of you guys used one of their doors? are these things fairly easy to DIY? 

 

Are there any things i should look out for when deciding what or which company to buy from? i know next to nothing about roller doors so it is blind territory for me sadly. i just want one that works with no fancy bells or whistles that is decent and wont fall apart. 

You can get a manual secureglide roller shutter for around £1000 at garagedoorsonline.co.uk. pretty comprehensive measuring and fitting instructions. You can fit the rails fit on the  inside face of your brickwork and the roll itself takes up about 300mm of headroom. The 'roll'  is spring loaded and wrapped up tightly.  you need to take care cutting the wrapping off as the whole thing will unravel unless it's clamped in position first. We tied a roof rack strap around the roll as a precaution. Good luck.

[joe90]

2 minutes ago, TommoUK said:

the roll itself takes up about 300mm of headroom.

But @gaz_moose says he does not have room for the 300mm 🤷‍♂️

[TommoUK]

18 minutes ago, joe90 said:

But @gaz_moose says he does not have room for the 300mm 🤷‍♂️

...I guess you would see 100mm or so of the 300mm roll below the existing white fascia? You could hide this with a bit of timber frame and cladding that sits flush with the external brickwork?

[joe90]

2 hours ago, TommoUK said:

...I guess you would see 100mm or so of the 300mm roll below the existing white fascia? You could hide this with a bit of timber frame and cladding that sits flush with the external brickwork?

From the photo the bottom of the white facia is only about 30mm below the inside timber 🤷‍♂️

[TommoUK]

10 hours ago, joe90 said:

From the photo the bottom of the white facia is only about 30mm below the inside timber 🤷‍♂️

Ah..I see the other pic. Still possible with fascia cladding to hide the roll but you'd have less than 2m when open so may not be practical 

[Dave Jones]

On 23/09/2024 at 20:25, gaz_moose said:

i drove over to a garage door showroom to have a nose around. 

i think I've decided on a sectional up and over as it would work best. a roller door requires space above the opening for the roller which i don't really have so i would have to lower to opening height and have a massive bit of upvc trim above the door. 

 

 

I'm a bit stuck on what i should put the height as, I did try to pump the ruff sales bird for how its done but she just wanted to send a salesman round 🙄

The roof slopes from right to left and the door is on the front so the brickwork on the right side is higher. i then just cut the bricks to match the angle for the front and back. the joists sit on a 45mm wall plate so i screwed a length of 45 to the bottom of the overhang noggins which gave me somewhere to fasten the soffit.

 

i was going to mount the runners inside the brickwork and not on the back/inside of the pillars.

 

so erm yea, is the height..

A. the lowest side joist

B. the lowest side soffit 

C. 

 

 

 

sectional tracks will sit behind the reveal and hang from the ceiling so doesnt matter if the rafters are not level, they will level the straps.

[Bozza]

Costco (oddly) are doing installed garage doors by Cardale.  Products via Costco are usually good quality and they offer excellent customer service, but I cannot comment on Cardale specifically.  They’re on the Costco website if interested. 

 

But I would add a condiderable weighting to any supplier personal recommendation by a regular BH contributor, especially from the likes of @joe90.    (Not for a moment suggesting other BH member’s recommendations are not sound of course).
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 18:40 by Bozza

[joe90]

1 hour ago, Bozza said:

especially from the likes of @joe90.    

Aw thanks @Bozza.

[Bozza]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

Aw thanks @Bozza.

 

…..but I should add if you take @joe90’s recommendation and it goes south, you can blame him :)

[gaz_moose]

Sorry for the lack of reply's I've just been crazy busy.

i was speaking to the guys at rollerdoor and because my door is wide i would have to go for the 300mm roller box and not the smaller 205mm one.

 

i was doing some thinking and i have 260mm of depth in the joists/wall plate and my total door height at the lower side of the opening is 2350 from floor to bottom of joist so will probably cut my noggins out and put the roller box up into that space.

If i go up into the joist space by 200mm then have 100mm which i can trim over in soffit to match, this will give me an opening height of 2250 which is still decent.