July 30, 20242 yr Hello you lovely peeps. Just a quick question. We are installing lintels and the inside is going well. But the blocks on the outside won't stay in situ. We've cut the DPC back slightly, but it seems to slope outside. FYI, this is block / block with 150 cavity and 150 thermally broken lintels from IG. We've got the others in by grinding a tiny amount off the block so it tips inwards, but that's quite time consuming. Any suggestions / options on a quicker method. Thanks
July 30, 20242 yr allways sad to see time money and effort into wooden window formers when you could have used built it formers which you will have to put in anyway.
July 30, 20242 yr Timber prop across the gap, spread some muck on it, pull the prop out when you have built another course on.
July 30, 20242 yr Author 3 hours ago, Dave Jones said: the weepers dont look to be the correct ones either, too short for the render.
July 30, 20242 yr Author 3 hours ago, Dave Jones said: havent you got a brickie on site ? needs a prop in middle until the muck goes off. brickie is hubby
July 30, 20242 yr Author Just now, LSB said: brickie is hubby there was a prop when the inside was done. not sure why it's wasn't there in these pics
July 30, 20242 yr Author 3 hours ago, Dave Jones said: the weepers dont look to be the correct ones either, too short for the render. it's cladding not render
July 30, 20242 yr Author 3 hours ago, Dave Jones said: allways sad to see time money and effort into wooden window formers when you could have used built it formers which you will have to put in anyway. hubby made them when it rained for 3 months, kept him busy and dry and is pretty harmless in the bigger picture.
July 30, 20242 yr Author so @Dave Jones lots of criticism but no help on the issue i was asking about.
July 30, 20242 yr mortar too soft? dpc too slippy do you really need a dpc there is lintels are galvanised? you would not use one with concrete lintel Edited July 30, 20242 yr by scottishjohn
July 30, 20242 yr cut a horizontal 4 x 1 timber 10 mm short of the opening width and prop it off the cill taking care not to push the lintel up. Then lay the blocks over the top leave for a day then remove.
July 31, 20242 yr Author 11 hours ago, scottishjohn said: mortar too soft? dpc too slippy do you really need a dpc there is lintels are galvanised? you would not use one with concrete lintel there is a DPC, it was cut back about 10mm just to give some grip to the edge.
August 3, 20242 yr Encounter this nearly everyday at work. lintel is more than likely right up against back of the block. Chop a slight chamfer at the back of the block where it meets the back/bottom of lintel. Add more compo to the front than the back so it’s not squeezing up behind the block and pushing it out. Place blocks dry across the cavity from front to back to hold the front in place until they go off. With the weight holding them in place you can knock the tops back to the line and leave until set. The thicker the DPC the more you have to chamfer the back of the block. On paper it’s a wonderful thing but using hyload DPC with a tight lintel is a pain. Edited August 3, 20242 yr by DannyT
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