Electric blinds

[CalvinHobbes]

Sister told me I should get the spark to put the connection for them beside the big window at the staircase. Where do you put it? It's a tall rectangle? Anything else I forgot? 

[Mattg4321]

You’ll need to ask the suppliers/installers of whatever blind you go for. Imagine it will need power inside the window recess, probably at one end or the other. 
 

I’m thinking of using the below when we do our extension, but not got round to looking into it properly, so please update the thread if you do the legwork for me!!!

 

https://www.poweredblinds.co.uk/electric-roller-blinds/serene-electric-roller-blinds/

[bassanclan]

I'm thinking about this now that the blinds are up!

A lot of the electric blind kits Ive seen are actually battery powered with a charge needed every 3-6months (allegedly) 

[Mattg4321]

I can’t be doing with changing batteries all the time personally 

[nod]

Whilst I’ve no experience of fitting e blinds I’ve built plenty of housing for the Theres normally just one three core wire that’s took up out of site once fitted Super cool I wouldn’t like to guess at the cost We recently did a barn conversation with eight three metre sections on the south facing side 

[NailBiter]

Is there any logic in just dropping cat6 if it is a reasonably sized window where you can get away with a 24v blind?

It gives you maximum flexibility (except if you need a bigger motor and therefore AC power). It also gives you control wires.

You can terminate cat6 yourself and it is easy to deal with (e.g. replacing the blinds could just be as simple as unplugging a network cable and crimping a new RJ45 on the new blind to the correct length). No need for any electricians.


Edit: Some more info here: https://umbrashading.co.uk/24v-vs-230v-roller-blinds-which-motor-is-right-for-you/

Powering via POE might solve some of the downsides they are saying about, it also means the control device only has to be turned on when the blinds are moving (the POE switch could turn the port on, send the command, wait for confirmation its completed and then turn the port off).


Edit 2: More info here: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/ubp7su/poe_roller_blinds/

Seems that powershades are one of the few providers of POE blinds at the moment:

https://powershades.com/truepoe

Edited April 13, 2024 by NailBiter

[garrymartin]

In my research notes, I have electric (wired) blinds mostly favouring left-hand side cabling, and for pre-cabling to cover most bases, to run 1.5mm2 Twin and Earth and a CAT6 cable.

[garrymartin]

13 hours ago, Mattg4321 said:

I can’t be doing with changing batteries all the time personally 

Most of the battery ones are rechargeable by plugging in a USB charger rather than changing the batteries...

[bassanclan]

17 minutes ago, garrymartin said:

Most of the battery ones are rechargeable by plugging in a USB charger rather than changing the batteries...

Yes thats what I was getting at, if you had a socket nearby you could just leave it charging all the time if you were so inclined

[Mattg4321]

29 minutes ago, garrymartin said:

Most of the battery ones are rechargeable by plugging in a USB charger rather than changing the batteries...

I don’t want to do that either!!

[Spinny]

@CalvinHobbes @NailBiter @Mattg4321

 

Any update or news on this topic since a year ago ? Anyone installed any electric blinds ?

 

I am just trying to define details for installing electric blinds myself. The electrician has run 1.5mm twin and earth to the window reveals, but am still unsure whether anything else is required.

I see some blind motors are smart home capable (with zigbee for example), so that seems the best control option. So presumably you don't need any additional cable to a wall switch because you can just turn the motor on/off/reverse wirelessly.

 

Anyone done electric blinds over bifold doors ?

[Spinny]

Jeepers, Somfy seem to absolutely take the piss with their 'we saw you coming pricing'.

Hundreds for a blind motor FFS, and £180 quid for yet another bloody zigbee hub.

[Andehh]

Yep, we hardwired all our blinds... No regrets! Just need to tidy it up a bit.... 2 core all that was required. Even if rechargeable is easier having several blinds would quickly be annoying!

[Spinny]

@Andehh

So where did you get your blinds from ? And what are you using for control ?

[markharro]

Ive got some Smartblind Eve motion powered blinds. They are battery powered but no hub needed and interface well with Apple Home. As for the price of any sort of motorised blind - its ridiculous.

[JohnMo]

We have Somfy blinds and 6 are rechargeable. A recharge every 3 to 6 months is needed. But charger isn't very long, so doesn't reach the ground, so need steps to support extension lead. Takes a couple of days to charge all 6 blinds.

 

Control is via a simple remote control. Nothing hub wise, sort of double the price of the blinds, so wasn't really fussed about it. Remote is easy, anyone can do it.

 

Hard wire next time.

Edited May 29 by JohnMo

[zzPaulzz]

@Andehh Also interested in your source for blinds please. 

[Spinny]

Looking at 240V motors, really don't fancy rechargeable and have put in the cables now.

One blind company has said each blind should have it's own fused spur ? This seems a bit OTT to me especially for 3 blinds above a bifold needing 3 fused spurs. Each one only seems to draw 100W or so. Told blind motors need to be powered up individually for set-up, but surely that could be achieved by just disconnecting the other motors ? (Or adding an inline switch in the blind box.)

 

Can anyone comment ?

@Mattg4321 @garrymartin @Andehh @CalvinHobbes @nod Anyone

 

 

[nod]

It does seem ridiculous 

[Mattg4321]

1 hour ago, Spinny said:

Looking at 240V motors, really don't fancy rechargeable and have put in the cables now.

One blind company has said each blind should have it's own fused spur ? This seems a bit OTT to me especially for 3 blinds above a bifold needing 3 fused spurs. Each one only seems to draw 100W or so. Told blind motors need to be powered up individually for set-up, but surely that could be achieved by just disconnecting the other motors ? (Or adding an inline switch in the blind box.)

 

Can anyone comment ?

@Mattg4321 @garrymartin @Andehh @CalvinHobbes @nod Anyone

 

 

Don't listen to the blind company, they're not electricians and almost certainly clueless. I'd be feeding them all above the bifold from one supply/spur.

 

 

[Andehh]

https://theblindcompanyuk.co.uk/

 

Brilliant company to work with, really helped us out, 

[Andehh]

And yes, we had a fused spur fitted, we installed it near the light switch, but would possibly install it nearer the window next time? It is switched, so it does mean when we are away we can just disable each of the blinds to keep them perm open/closed, so that is a very small benefit? 

 

Kitchen we have 4 switches in place of a 4 way fused spur as we couldn't find a fused spur at the time , so the 'temp' solution remains... 

Edited Wednesday at 20:54 by Andehh

[Nickfromwales]

5 hours ago, Spinny said:

Looking at 240V motors, really don't fancy rechargeable and have put in the cables now.

One blind company has said each blind should have it's own fused spur ? This seems a bit OTT to me especially for 3 blinds above a bifold needing 3 fused spurs. Each one only seems to draw 100W or so. Told blind motors need to be powered up individually for set-up, but surely that could be achieved by just disconnecting the other motors ? (Or adding an inline switch in the blind box.)

 

Can anyone comment ?

@Mattg4321 @garrymartin @Andehh @CalvinHobbes @nod Anyone

 

 

I ran cables to 10 ground floor window reveals for a previous client. The 1st blind company rep was a fecking wet-wipe, and said that depending on blind type and other nonsense it "could be" a D/C low voltage motor or an A/C 230v. Given this info I ran an independent 3-core 1.0mm2 cable from each opening to the plant room, so each blind could be fed by whatever source the final chosen blind needed to be fed by.

 

I could think of nothing worse than charging all that lot up for the rest of my days tbf, and my Ring doorbell is on borrowed time as even charging that (takes bloody forever) get right on my tits.

[Super_Paulie]

8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

I could think of nothing worse than charging all that lot up for the rest of my days tbf, and my Ring doorbell is on borrowed time as even charging that (takes bloody forever) get right on my tits.

 

agree with that. My Google doorbell was/is battery, lasted about 2 weeks. "No problem" the missus said, just charge it. Easy for her to say, but it was me having to remove it every fortnight for the next 10+ years and that sounded hideous so i sent cables to it before plastering, job done.