TonyT Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Not a good job. can you get access underneath? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesley72 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 @bassanclan no idea about hangers.,but there is plenty of insulation I hope ripping the tiles up isn’t going to damage the sub floor as the underfloor heating is in it. There is a crackmat down so not sure if that needs to come up. Or if self leveller will be able to go down on top of it? I don’t think the builder will be back as we paid him his final payment last year and have been working with the tilers to try to get the cracked tiles sorted. When I asked the builder about the joist and floor he just said it was built to the architects spec 🤷🏻♀️ I would love to rip it all up and start again but with the new kitchen in and underfloor heating in, we can’t take everything up so are going to have to do the best fix possible. Whatever that is and try and get some flooring down that isn’t going to crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 (edited) Movements in the substrate can cause cracks to form in your new tiled surface. Old or damaged substrates, such as wooden floors can be particularly prone to this problem. The installation of anti-crack matting, or decoupling membrane as it is also known as, ensures small cracks in the substrate are absorbed by the matting, in effect the tiles are decoupled from the floor and cannot be damaged. The mats are easy to fit and provide added peace of mind for your tiling installation. This from the internet so I guess the tiles can come up without damaging the floor (but ask your tiler). I still think hardwood flooring would be best at absorbing any movement, however it’s caused. I have laid LVT and can’t imagine it would crack like tiles. Edited March 18 by joe90 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesley72 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 @TonyT no we can’t get access underneath now the UFH is down. ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 You can put self levelling on the ant crack mat, but it will crack because the subfloor is moving too much! LVT is bonded to the floor, it shouldn't crack, but with the floor moving so much i wouldn't be sure, if it doesn't crack gaps will open up between the tiles. Don't take up the whole floor, just enough to prove that the floor is not fixed properly, then ask for the builders public liability insurance details! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Loads of answers So probably repeating advise As a tiling contractor The problem is in the first sentence 6 mil ply is your problem It should have been at least 12.5 The matting will make little difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesley72 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 @nod thank you. If we can get the crack mat up and see where is safe to screw another 6mm ply will that fix it? or does it mean we can’t have any size tiles now? Will all other flooring be ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 These are good suggestions. Bug any size of tile is stiff once grouted up. Perhaps the grout will break instead of the tiles. Carpet, or vinyl. OR get it independently assessed and the builder to sort it. I don't think it is as spec. You quote an 'architects spec'. Is there an architect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 the tile train has left the station. get some karndean or similar down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Nobody can know what floor will be ok until you can be certain that the floor joists and therefore the ply etc is not moving 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesley72 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 Thanks for everyone.. I think we’ll get the tiles up and see if we can get the crack mat up and take it from there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 @Lesley72, can you feel any bounce in the floor? If not I would suggest the bounce is minimal and may even be within limits as @saveasteading posted earlier. I also think 4ft tiles on a wooden floor is pushing your luck. Best of luck removing the tiles, let us know how you get on 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Paulie Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (edited) i hope they foamed and taped that PIR as well, seems very gappy. One of the reasons i put my own PIR in as the only person i would trust to do a good job was myself... If you have any more photos of the build around the joists it might help. Id imagine the gable side are in pockets in the wall and the nearside are resting on the now removed cavity wall? this is the setup that my builder did and the nearside in the cavity was sketchy at best, i built-up inbetween them to keep them true and had to use various bits of slate to keep them from bouncing and bring them totally level. Id imagine any remedial work now the UFH is in will be quite painful. Was it pug/biscuit mix youve got inbetween the joists? Actually just saw you used TorFloor. That in itself is pretty much half-routed through from the off. Id whack a 6mm over the top of that to bring the total of ply to 12mm if it was me, maybe even up to 18. Edited March 19 by Super_Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 3 hours ago, Lesley72 said: @nod thank you. If we can get the crack mat up and see where is safe to screw another 6mm ply will that fix it? or does it mean we can’t have any size tiles now? Will all other flooring be ok? I would still add 12.5 on top 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Just now, nod said: I would still add 12.5 on top I think this would need glueing as UFH pipes are just below the surface 🤷♂️. However, if engineered oak (or another wood) flooring is glued down the extra ply would not be needed surely and would bond it all together and make the floor stiffer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Is the ceiling beneath finished? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 looks like a design feck up. Who provided the height datums for the floors ? from this picture it looks like nowhere near enough space left for a 22mm floor , ufh on top then 6mm backer board and 10mm (?) tiles? ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesley72 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 @Dave Jones the 22mm board is routed to fit the ufh heating in and so are the 6mm ply that went ontop. We had the option to put 12mm ply but the tiler says it would be fine with 6mm and the crackmat.. wish we’d gone with the 12mm ply. 🤬🤬🤬 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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