NRMartin Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Morning all, I have a steel column in the corner of my build, with a steel returning both directions because there are bifolds on both sides of the corner. The corner needs to be rendered, and I was assuming I'd need to build the external wall of the column out of block work. However, because the overall column will only be 300 x 300mm the blocks need to be tied back to the steel somehow - otherwise it will be a tiny part of blockwork that's unsupported from the back. I've attached a photo of the column to help show what I mean Does anyone have any advice on how to do this, or if there are ties I can use? Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 (edited) You can fix the ties to the column with screws or shotfire Hilti nails. You may need 1 every course. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/wall-and-frame-ties/staifix-spb-frame-cramp-200mm/p/252309 Edited March 1 by Mr Punter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 +1 "Starter wall ties" fixed to the column? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Where does the steel sit relative to the cavity? It looks like it's in the inner leaf? If it was within the cavity or external leaf, then it needs to be a galvanised post, which it isn't. Is there a drawing showing the bifold detail? You want to avoid cold bridging here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canski Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Tek Screws ( easiest with a pilot hole) and frame cramps. We don't shot fire any more. Most engineers advise against it because the nails have been known to corrode over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbeard Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Perhaps forget the blocks and use XPS? Much warmer. (I would normally say graphite EPS but XPS will give you a bit more impact resistance 'just in case'). Thin-coat reinforced render on top, of course. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbeard Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 XPS would fix via pilot holes to column, BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Don’t render it. cover the column in insulation and then clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. £120 all done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRMartin Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 (edited) 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: Don’t render it. cover the column in insulation and then clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. £120 all done. Thanks - that's a good shout. How did you fix the trim back over the insulation? Edited March 1 by NRMartin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Good advice and ideas above. I'm torn. A fabricated boxing may be vulnerable to bashing and difficult to repair. However it would flex with the building if the door is bashed, and in wind. Block can be tied to the steel and will be robust, but the render may crack.... but is easy to patch. If you go the block route then use self drill, self tapping tek screws with the correct head (called a 'heavy') for hot-rolled steel (ie not for cladding or light weight steel). They are easy to find at a specialist fixings merchant, and a driving head to suit. Then you can use standard L wall ties. These screws are much easier to fix than hilti nails, using a normal drill and you can be certain they will stay put. Paint the steel with bitumen paint and it won't rust. or a fancier, coloured steel protection paint. If the base plate is exposed, then paint it and any mortar packing too. And pack the cavity with cavity insulation. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 20 hours ago, NRMartin said: Thanks - that's a good shout. How did you fix the trim back over the insulation? Polyurethane adhesive. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canski Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 On 01/03/2024 at 13:30, Russell griffiths said: clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. £120 all done. Hi Russel can you let me know the supplier if possible. I have a garage door with an excessive gap between the frame and the wall. Id like a 50 mm D strip in aluminium powder coated to match the bright red garage door but I’m struggling to find a supplier for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 If you are anywhere near Derby you can ask Donfabs and Consillia (I sometimes contract for them) they specialise in one off metalwork 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 15 hours ago, Canski said: Hi Russel can you let me know the supplier if possible. I have a garage door with an excessive gap between the frame and the wall. Id like a 50 mm D strip in aluminium powder coated to match the bright red garage door but I’m struggling to find a supplier for this. based in the midlands, I would think it will be expensive, because they have a set up charge for different colours. so a one of thing requires the gun to be cleaned out for a new colour. can you get the trim and spray it, you can get the colour matched and put in a spray can by your local paint trade place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canski Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 6 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: based in the midlands, I would think it will be expensive, because they have a set up charge for different colours. so a one of thing requires the gun to be cleaned out for a new colour. can you get the trim and spray it, you can get the colour matched and put in a spray can by your local paint trade place. Thanks Russel. I’ll try them for a price. it’s D trim I’m after about 50 mm to cover a 20 mm gap. Seems to be available in plastic but not aluminium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 1 hour ago, Canski said: it’s D trim I’m after about 50 mm to cover a 20 mm gap. Seems to be available in plastic but not aluminium. I use aluminium warehouse for metalwork, usually a good price. https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/collections/aluminium-mouldings-half-round-moulding/products/2-in-x-1-4-in-aluminium-half-round-moulding-hrm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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