Jump to content

How to tie blockwork to a steel box column?


Recommended Posts

Morning all, I have a steel column in the corner of my build, with a steel returning both directions because there are bifolds on both sides of the corner. 

 

The corner needs to be rendered, and I was assuming I'd need to build the external wall of the column out of block work. However, because the overall column will only be 300 x 300mm the blocks need to be tied back to the steel somehow - otherwise it will be a tiny part of blockwork that's unsupported from the back. 

 

I've attached a photo of the column to help show what I mean

 

Does anyone have any advice on how to do this, or if there are ties I can use? Thanks in advance

Column.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where does the steel sit relative to the cavity? It looks like it's in the inner leaf? If it was within the cavity or external leaf, then it needs to be a galvanised post, which it isn't. Is there a drawing showing the bifold detail? You want to avoid cold bridging here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tek Screws ( easiest with a pilot hole) and frame cramps. We don't shot fire any more. Most engineers advise against it because the nails have been known to corrode over the years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps forget the blocks and use XPS? Much warmer. (I would normally say graphite EPS but XPS will give you a bit more impact resistance 'just in case'). Thin-coat reinforced render on top, of course.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

Don’t render it. 
cover the column in insulation and then clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. 
I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. 
£120 all done. 

 

Thanks - that's a good shout. 

 

How did you fix the trim back over the insulation?

Edited by NRMartin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good advice and ideas above. I'm torn.  A fabricated boxing may be vulnerable to bashing and difficult to repair. However it would flex with the building if the door is bashed, and in wind.

Block can be tied to the steel and will be robust, but the render may crack.... but is easy to patch.

 

If you go the block route then use self drill, self tapping tek screws with the correct head (called a 'heavy')  for hot-rolled steel (ie not for cladding or light weight steel).

They are easy to find at a specialist fixings merchant, and a driving head to suit.

Then you can use standard L wall ties.Fishtailed Cramps - Heavy Duty - Galvanised 150FFC - 150/50mm

These screws are much easier to fix than hilti nails, using a normal drill and you can be certain they will stay put.

 

Paint the steel with bitumen paint and it won't rust. or a fancier, coloured steel protection paint. If the base plate is exposed, then paint it and any mortar packing too.

And pack the cavity with cavity insulation.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 01/03/2024 at 13:30, Russell griffiths said:

clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. 
I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. 
£120 all done. 

Hi Russel can you let me know the supplier if possible. I have a garage door with an excessive gap between the frame and the wall. Id like a 50 mm D strip in aluminium powder coated to match the bright red garage door but I’m struggling to find a supplier for this. 

24B1C5D9-6EB1-45AD-983B-129F0DE1D3F0.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Canski said:

Hi Russel can you let me know the supplier if possible. I have a garage door with an excessive gap between the frame and the wall. Id like a 50 mm D strip in aluminium powder coated to match the bright red garage door but I’m struggling to find a supplier for this. 

24B1C5D9-6EB1-45AD-983B-129F0DE1D3F0.jpeg

IMG_2671.thumb.jpeg.b5a452ab16c51f113abb8ed54725a3a3.jpeg

based in the midlands, I would think it will be expensive, because they have a set up charge for different colours. 
so a one of thing requires the gun to be cleaned out for a new colour. 
can you get the trim and spray it, you can get the colour matched and put in a spray can by your local paint trade place. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

IMG_2671.thumb.jpeg.b5a452ab16c51f113abb8ed54725a3a3.jpeg

based in the midlands, I would think it will be expensive, because they have a set up charge for different colours. 
so a one of thing requires the gun to be cleaned out for a new colour. 
can you get the trim and spray it, you can get the colour matched and put in a spray can by your local paint trade place. 

Thanks Russel. I’ll try them for a price. it’s D trim I’m after about 50 mm to cover a 20 mm gap. Seems to be available in plastic but not aluminium. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Canski said:

it’s D trim I’m after about 50 mm to cover a 20 mm gap. Seems to be available in plastic but not aluminium.

I use aluminium warehouse for metalwork, usually a good price.

 

https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/collections/aluminium-mouldings-half-round-moulding/products/2-in-x-1-4-in-aluminium-half-round-moulding-hrm

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...