Gavin’s timber frame thread

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, gavztheouch said:

Unfortunately the joiners have used half the amount of foaming glue needed so the glue has not sealed the boards and already after a couple of days the edges have swollen.

 

Can you plane the swollen bit level?

[gavztheouch]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Can you plane the swollen bit level?

Probably can do that. until I put a straight edge across its hard to see how bad it is now. If it doesn’t get much worse then it will be fine for carpets. Might need to plane down the bathrooms if they are tilled or vinyl.

[Alan Ambrose]

You should be able to plane it quite easily, but the edges will be even more vulnerable I think. Possible to cover them with something at least temporarily waterproof? Some kind of tape maybe?

Edited October 7 by Alan Ambrose

[Russell griffiths]

Mix up a Solution of linseed oil and turps, brush it all over the joins and let it soak in.
 

this used to be the way before the egger stuff was invented. 

[gavztheouch]

On 24/09/2024 at 22:36, Iceverge said:

 

I'd be cautious about this. If any moisture was to run down between the woodfiber and membrane it would be directed into the house. I'd cut the DPM  back flush with the outsider of the sole plate. 

 

 

It would be difficult to build if you did this. You'd need to be putting the membrane up as you did the woodfiber. 

 

In general think always about allowing water to down and out. This might potentially create a pocket that would trap water against the membrane. 

 

Something else to consider is that the membrane and cladding may need to be replaced, it might be 100 years but it may need to happen. Ideally for the sake of whoever has to do this it should be removable without damaging the woodfiber. 

@Iceverge Im about to start adding the external wood fibre to my build. Im interested to hear if you still think stapling the dpm to the wall is a bad idea? I should clarify the dpm will be folded up against the racking board which is behind the wood fibre so it would need to get in between the wood fibre and the racking board which I guess would be possible. To prevent it diverting any water towards the sole plate I was planning on adding some pro clima tape to hold it against the racking board making it even more unlikely to divert water into the wall.

 

If I could go back in time I would have maybe stapled it against the studs as this would be very unlikely to have water running down the studs. I didn't do this as the nails for the racking board would go through the dpm.

[gavztheouch]

On 24/09/2024 at 13:31, Iceverge said:

 

 

Very Interesting build. 

 

I would avoid multi tooling anything. It's too slow and getting a very consistent cut would require too much attention. 

 

This would be my solution. 

 

Cut say a 300 mm strip of proclima and staple it to the racking board as shown in orange. 

 

Then run the breather membrane over the top as shown in blue to below the level of the orange. 

 

Tape the blue to the isoquick with an appropriate tape and primer. 

 

 

This will be a safe design if the tape fails, or the external membrane. 

 

 

However getting the external membrane and tape right is your primary objective..

I really like this idea but now I'm not sure I should do it. My concern is if any water finds it way to the bottom of the wall, the external membrane is trapping the water from getting out as it is taped to the upstand. There is however a possible path out as the gaps between the isoquick as quite large, some almost 10mm. These could work pretty nice as drains. If I put the tape marked in orange this will bridge over the gaps and stop the water.

 

My next though was keeping these drains clear. I think I might have to prime the cut edge of the wood fibre board and run a length of pro clima 100mm wide vana tape over the edge to stop all the fluffy bits of wood coming off and washing down into the drain. 

[Iceverge]

On 02/11/2024 at 04:47, gavztheouch said:

@Iceverge Im about to start adding the external wood fibre to my build. Im interested to hear if you still think stapling the dpm to the wall is a bad idea? I should clarify the dpm will be folded up against the racking board which is behind the wood fibre so it would need to get in between the wood fibre and the racking board which I guess would be possible. To prevent it diverting any water towards the sole plate I was planning on adding some pro clima tape to hold it against the racking board making it even more unlikely to divert water into the wall.

 

If I could go back in time I would have maybe stapled it against the studs as this would be very unlikely to have water running down the studs. I didn't do this as the nails for the racking board would go through the dpm.

 

If you tape it it should be fine. However the effort in doing so might not be rewarded in any extra resilience over just cutting it off.

 

As a general principal I would very much lean towards a simpler build is better. Extra membranes and tapes goes against this philosophy. 

 

 

[Iceverge]

On 02/11/2024 at 04:57, gavztheouch said:

I really like this idea but now I'm not sure I should do it. My concern is if any water finds it way to the bottom of the wall, the external membrane is trapping the water from getting out as it is taped to the upstand. There is however a possible path out as the gaps between the isoquick as quite large, some almost 10mm. These could work pretty nice as drains. If I put the tape marked in orange this will bridge over the gaps and stop the water.

 

My next though was keeping these drains clear. I think I might have to prime the cut edge of the wood fibre board and run a length of pro clima 100mm wide vana tape over the edge to stop all the fluffy bits of wood coming off and washing down into the drain. 

 

Ok, I see what you are saying. 

 

The priority risk is wind driven rain making it's way in between the eps foundation and the woodfiber ultimately damage the sole plate and sheathing so I would be keen to keep a mechanically robust detail in place here to stop that happening. 

 

However I would argue that if your window and door detailing is done to a good standard above this, then you lose the benefits of a completely taped wind tight layer unless you secure the membrane to the foundation. 

[gavztheouch]

23 hours ago, Iceverge said:

 

Ok, I see what you are saying. 

 

The priority risk is wind driven rain making it's way in between the eps foundation and the woodfiber ultimately damage the sole plate and sheathing so I would be keen to keep a mechanically robust detail in place here to stop that happening. 

 

However I would argue that if your window and door detailing is done to a good standard above this, then you lose the benefits of a completely taped wind tight layer unless you secure the membrane to the foundation. 

Yes I will be tapping the membrane to the foundation upstand. The folded up dpm or any extra bits of tape and membrane were meant to be extra barriers. Now that I have thought about it more I will revert back to the original detail of using just the membrane to stop the water getting through to the sole plate. Like you say keep it simple and try and do it well. Maybe I will monitor some choice points of the wall in times of windy wet weather to see if I can see any water getting through. An ideal solution would be a wire or some type of detector that could detect water at the sole plate. Then we would know to fix the membranes/window taping