Jump to content

Posi Joist Hanging...


Recommended Posts

Our First Floor layout is pretty simple. Here's our latest Posi design. I specified a target of under 10mm deflection, which this design achieves.

 

PosiLayout.jpg.bef24b2359ce94044496512fc9a25188.jpg

 

What is the best way to hang these joists in a Nudura build? My current mindset is in fixing Ledger Plates to the long walls in the required places before the pour, with pocketed concrete protrusions and J-bolt fixings. This would remove the need for resin fixing and also the need for cutting back the insulation. Any pitfalls to this method?

 

Beyond this, am I best to top chord hang the joists or use normal hangers onto the Ledgers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The big problem with fitting the ledger board before the pour is the braces for the icf, if the ledger board is in the way it’s a right pain to fix the bracing. 

If your heights and design allows it to be fitted first then that’s what I would do. 

 

After that go for top hanging the joists, no hangers needed so money to save, and the sit really flat, just get the design done around that because there will be extra blocking between the joists to prevent sideways twisting. 

 

You will also also need some very very straight timber for the ledger board. 

i would use a metro beam from the joist manufacturer for them, and tell them if there not straight you will not accept them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

The big problem with fitting the ledger board before the pour is the braces for the icf, if the ledger board is in the way it’s a right pain to fix the bracing. 

If your heights and design allows it to be fitted first then that’s what I would do. 

 

After that go for top hanging the joists, no hangers needed so money to save, and the sit really flat, just get the design done around that because there will be extra blocking between the joists to prevent sideways twisting. 

 

You will also also need some very very straight timber for the ledger board. 

i would use a metro beam from the joist manufacturer for them, and tell them if there not straight you will not accept them. 

 

Thanks @Russell griffiths. Yes, I'm aware of the difficulty in propping. I plan to install the props on timber on the walls where ledgers are. I think I can use the props/timber arrangement to hold the ledgers in place (along with Timberscrews),  I've had this in mind for a while and am yet to think of a pitfall.

 

Good point in the straightness of the Timber, I need to research metro beams as I've not heard of them. I had hoped to not receive the Posi joists yet, so it's obtaining the beams if they are to come from the Posi people, but that's not insurmountable.

 

Regarding the hanging, top chord was my preference it was only that someone raised a concern about strength with the joists hanging only from the top chord. Doing so would also help me to take the strength even further and into 147mm wide beams (8mm deflection) if I so wished).

 

Why do some opt to hang Posi joists on hangers placed in the core as opposed to ledgers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Spell checking bloody iPad. 

 

Its not a metro beam. It’s a kerto beam, basically laminated plywood cut into a solid timber profile so just like your 9x2 or 225x 48. Whatever size your after, your joist manufactures should do them. 

 

Haha!! I emailed Pasquill asking them if they could help with Metro beams!! PMSL. Explains why I hadn't heard of it and why Google had nothing meaningful to offer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Is it also not known as “glulam” 

No. Glulam is large bits of timber glued together in layers, think bits of 4 by 2 glued together in layers in both planes to make whatever size you want.

 

Kerto is literally overgrown plywood.  Think thin strips of wood glued together in layers to whatever size you want them.

 

We used Kerto beams for our roof ridge beam.  According to the SE Kerto will give the same strength in a smaller size than a Glulam.  But if lift on sight, a Glulam can be sanded and varnished and look quite nice.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 13/10/2023 at 19:20, Mulberry View said:

Just one thing, I'm guessing Kerto beams must be kept completely dry? Moreso than Timber? That might scupper my plan. @Russell griffiths

Check with your supplier, mine sat out in all weather until the roof went on, probably 6-8 weeks, I believe it’s all waterproof glue like a version of D4 glue on steroids. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, I've asked my Posi supplier to quote on these.

 

I'm thinking of putting a layer of DPM between the Nudura and the Ledger, leaving it long at the top so I can pull it down over the Ledgers to keep them dry. I might be worrying over nothing, but if I get them up pre-pour, it'll be months rather than weeks before the roof is on.

 

As for the top chord hanging, why do more people not do this? It just seems really tidy and simple to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've got me reliving these products, and looking them up , as I used kerto big time a couple of times to replace steel. Reason? 1.Workability, joiners instead of steel fabricators, 

2. Making up a solution on site with complex angles.... wood is easier than steel.

 

Notes.

Kerto is a trade name. LVL (laminated veneer lumber) may bring up other manufacturers. 

It is really strong and also hard. It needs a very good circular saw/ nail gun etc.

 

Another product is made of longitudinzl shards of timbe in resin, like osb, but in beam sizes. Super strong.  I can't remember it's name, or find it online. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 13/10/2023 at 09:51, Mulberry View said:

What is the best way to hang these joists in a Nudura build?

Use Nudura joist hangers where you can (see pics after YT link) - https://www.nudura.com/media/1913/nuduraicf_monotruss_hanger_system.pdf

In the left hand picture you'll see some pieces of wood bolted into the concrete after as the Nudura joist hangers could not be inserted prior to the pour.

 

20220528_121316.thumb.jpg.62afeb317171c152724cc53dd450e8c2.jpg20220130_091848.thumb.jpg.0ce761be56bd59c32c88f819e3b24eca.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, saveasteading said:

You've got me reliving these products, and looking them up , as I used kerto big time a couple of times to replace steel. Reason? 1.Workability, joiners instead of steel fabricators, 

Exactly the same for us, joiners cut all the compound angles for the gable end ridge beams on site.  They made softwood templates first to establish the correct compound angles to cut, before cutting the real beams, all supplied a bit over length.

 

I had some offcuts of Kerto beams left outside in the rain for a very long time without delaminating.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simpson strong tie ICF ledger bracket.

Install before pour, fits flush, can be spaced around alignment system.

 

Only issue is if you're using the xr35 block which requires a bit of a fiddle solution using makeup panels and webs.

 

Still less expensive than the nudura system for the xr35.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 16/10/2023 at 17:19, BotusBuild said:

Use Nudura joist hangers where you can (see pics after YT link) - https://www.nudura.com/media/1913/nuduraicf_monotruss_hanger_system.pdf

In the left hand picture you'll see some pieces of wood bolted into the concrete after as the Nudura joist hangers could not be inserted prior to the pour.

 

20220528_121316.thumb.jpg.62afeb317171c152724cc53dd450e8c2.jpg20220130_091848.thumb.jpg.0ce761be56bd59c32c88f819e3b24eca.jpg

Why didn't you use the Nudura retrofit brackets?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/10/2023 at 17:17, FM2015 said:

Simpson strong tie ICF ledger bracket.

Install before pour, fits flush, can be spaced around alignment system.

 

Only issue is if you're using the xr35 block which requires a bit of a fiddle solution using makeup panels and webs.

 

Still less expensive than the nudura system for the xr35.

 

These are flippin' expensive, aren't they?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Mulberry View said:

a strong, bounce-free floor the same as hanging the joists

Lots of nails hold the end tight, reducing deflection.

In any case, joists are sized to a deflection that is comfortable, long before breaking strength becomes an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Mulberry View said:

 

These are flippin' expensive, aren't they?

Entirely relative.

 

You use around 60%less units but you have to factor in the cost of the wall plate and the conventional joist hangers and nails.

 

We pretty much never use the Nudura system, especially for the xr35 block because it works out more expensive.  Be that on time or materials.

 

Best advantage of the Simpsons though is the bearing point around the perimeter.  Can be achieved other ways but yet to use one I'd recommend.

 

The other advice is book price and purchase price can be wildly different.  Nearly 50% off when I ring the supplier.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/10/2023 at 19:46, Mulberry View said:

 

These are flippin' expensive, aren't they?

As pointed out the time savings is huge, you can set the initial bracket typically at 1.2m o.c. So at £20 per kit it’s not bad, when the ledger board is in place you don’t have to add solid blocking around the perimeter which is a huge time savings 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...