Vaillant ashp (my battle with).

[marshian]

14 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi marshian,

 

ok good so I get the general gist of this, but cannot glean an answer from your reply as to 'what is a medium setting I need to put (this flow temp to) with efficiency in mind'.

 

Forgive me but I can't use your 70% figure to do anything wth, other than see it's a high percentage number; more than that, it remains completely arbitrary.

 

Are you meant to 1) assume the installer sets this flow temp to a default factory setting, or set it yourself day 1, or I don't know, do calculations of some kind, to know what to set it to-?

Thanks, Zoot

 

 

What Flow temp you need is simple - the lowest flow temp required to heat the house with the rads you have 

 

My house with a gas boiler is between 25 and 35 depending on outside temp............ But I did fit big rads so that I could do low flow temps

[marshian]

15 minutes ago, -rick- said:

But equally, your heatpump will produce more heat output per unit of energy input the lower the temperature. So if your set the output temp to 55C it might take 1kw input to produce 2.5kw output. But if you set the output temp to 35C it might take 0.5kw to produce 2.5kw output. So double the amount of heat for the same money.

 

No point saving money with a lower flow temp if the house remains freezing 😉 

 

15 minutes ago, -rick- said:

Zoot said his current flow temp is set at 46C. That sounds fine for now to me. I would leave that as is.

 

We don't want @zoothorn cooking though do we 😉 

 

15 minutes ago, -rick- said:

The aim is to set it as low as possible while still outputting enough heat to be warm. Right now there are other issues stopping zoot from warming up.

 

I'd start in the middle (35 Deg) and see where the house settles - increase or decrease accordingly

[-rick-]

Just now, marshian said:

I'd start in the middle (35 Deg) and see where the house settles - increase or decrease accordingly

 

I'd very strongly advise not touching it at all right now. Zoot has mentioned that this new system is the first time he has felt as if the system is working and outputting some warmth. Once the other issues we've talked about have been solved and the building is warm then we can talk about lowering this. But I think it's a really bad idea to lower it now before we have got the building warm.

 

Zoot, in my view, you could increase the hot water temp to 55 rather than 46 if you want but don't touch the flow temp for the rads. Focus on figuring out how to adjust the timer and locating the thermostat in the right location.

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, -rick- said:

 

Why not in the sitting room?

 

What about at the bottom of the stairs?

 

 

You can set up whatever periods you like in the timer. Lower temp at night higher temp during the day is about the simpliest way to do it.

 

 

As we have said repeatedly, setting it that low overnight means your system will be overwhelmed by the cold. To maintain a comfortable temperature during the day you will need to maintain a higher temp at night.

 

Having the temperature set a bit lower overnight is fine, but more than a few degrees will cause the heatpump too much work and the house will become too cold to heat.

 

I know this sounds wrong to you and you don't like the idea, but all we are asking is you give it a go. We can work with you to find a solution for your bedroom so you can sleep comfortably, but the rest of the house should be kept relatively stable temperature (+/- 2-3 degrees).

Hi Rick,

 

bottom of the stairs, actually IS in my sittingroom! Haha, so seriously there's not any good place for it anywhere in this cottage, was my point tbh.
 

It's case of the least-worst option. Which is likely not much different to where it is tbh: this room is never warm, it's slightly warmer than the others only. That's still damn cold, due to the construction.

 

Because the cottage has these construction caveats (the plasterboard redo upstairs job just to aid one small bit of it... is a massive undertaking for me, hugely inny-outy complex, 4 windows to go around, with 4 box-affair fake wall areas to recreate. Plus I renovated both rooms in last 6 years, up to how they look now/ finished/ so a galling prospect)... even if I upped the heating, when it gets up to speed & trips off, it would then go cold again far quicker than any insulated house. Meaning it would have to be going on-off-on far more often. Meaning my heating bill won't just be bigger, it'll be hugely bigger. That's using plain logic. 
 

This is where to me, addressing the main sittingroom floor, could only really be considered IME. I asked the latest installer (the Vaillant trained-up competent one, with his £70k electric van outside) if I did redo floor in here, could I disconnect the two big double rads, & connect the HP up to a UFH circuit here? IE a UFH 'ring' sizewise  directly similar to these two bigass double rads. Yes he said. Furthermore he said it was a decent idea, & connection to the cylinder easy, due to it being directly above/ pipe just comes straight down 2m, albeit 2x bit larger diameter copper pipes.

 

I could only really consider the logistics of this renovation job, not removing all the plasterboard in 2 bedrooms above. I could try the small holes > input foam, in the perimeter. But the floor between the rooms hasn't thickness for even 1" of insulation to be introduced. 

Anyway, still trying to plan how I can use the HP/ setting etc. The fact that you seem t9 concur that an overnight setting CAN be dialed in, separate from the Auto/ Timer setting (which I now believe to be the one suggested), means I can do that then. Even if not optimal for your suggested way, I can at least have it set lower. No choice- I have to have it set like so. Besides, it does clearly imply by design, that a lower setting overnight is perhaps even 'standard fayre' (or what's the moon symbol even for?).

 

Thanks, Zoot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

31 minutes ago, marshian said:

 

What Flow temp you need is simple - the lowest flow temp required to heat the house with the rads you have 

 

My house with a gas boiler is between 25 and 35 depending on outside temp............ But I did fit big rads so that I could do low flow temps

Understand the logic in this reply. But even so, that doesn't answer my question of basically "what do I set mine to?". (Unless you are suggesting "set it to 30*C Flow temp, that is a general medium number, for UK households").
 

I don't understand whether I have optimal rads for here, sub-optimal rads for here, I don't know if you're privvy to a plethora of U value calculations to know abc, xyz. Furthermore you have a gas CH system. A HP system is by nature a different way of doing things: generally speaking bigger rads that output lower than gas CH systems. This therefore is perhaps going to mean a fundamentally different Flow temp.. I mean isn't it?

Thanks, Zoot

Edited Friday at 14:38 by zoothorn

[marshian]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Understand the logic in this reply. But even so, that doesn't answer my question of basically "what do I set mine to?". (Unless you are suggesting "set it to 30*C Flow temp, that is a general medium number, for UK households").

 

I'm just saying start low (ish) and work your way up if the house remains cold - I have this irrational fear that you will start high, pronounce the house too hot, can't sleep and turn it off again

 

People tolerances are different - I'm "hot" above 19 - Mrs Alien - different kettle of fish less than 21 is freezing!!!!

 

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

I don't understand whether I have optimal rads for here, sub-optimal rads for here, I don't know if you're privvy to a plethora of U value calculations to know abc, xyz. 

 

Well we can start there - what size and type are the rads and what sizes are the rooms - we have enough knowledge on here to start piecing it all together and come up with a reasonable punt 

 

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Furthermore you have a gas CH system. A HP system is by nature a different way of doing things: generally speaking bigger rads that output lower than gas CH systems. This therefore is perhaps going to mean a fundamentally different Flow temp.. I mean isn't it?

 

I have a gas boiler and I'm running it like an ASHP - CH 24/7 low flow temps (between 25 and 35 Deg C based on weather comp) - when doing HW it raises the flow temp to heat the tank.

 

I could replace it with a 5kW HP tomorrow and know it would work perfectly - this was the point of my rad upgrades and insulation improvements - get HP ready without leaping into it and then finding all my calcs were wrong and I've got a problem.

[zoothorn]

@marshian Respectfully as you are trying to help using simple analogies like Aliens, but even so, I am still lost. I am confused here, about whether you are referring to a -room temp- of 19*C to 25*C (19-25 figures tally with a room temp figure that I set my old folks storage heater to), or, whether you're a answering my question of..

 

Can someone tell me what an average Flow Temperature setting, for this HP is? 
 

I just want to make sure the basics are in place, before I start changing settings to this Auto/ Timer thing. Anything 'medium' is ok. I'll just whack that in. You see if I were to find the recent installer has dialed in an excessively high figure, then this isn't put in with efficiency in mind, so I need to lower it (& vice-versa, but as the rads seem fairly hot, then I don't suppose he's dialed in too low a figure- may have though, for all I know).

 

It might well be 19-25*C!! I don't know. I suspect the Flow Temp is a different ballpark to this typical room temp though. Like 46 or something.. although 46 as a figure I know is my HW temp. Which I now know is -separate- to the Flow Temp, from the most recent replies.

 

Thanks Zoot

Edited Friday at 19:43 by zoothorn

[marshian]

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@marshian Respectfully as you are trying to help using simple analogies like Aliens, but even so, I am still lost. 

 

Christ this is hard work - my BH user id is Marshian - You know like from another planet - oh maybe the planet Mars - my better half - Mrs "Alien" (You know like from another planet)

 

I know it's not spelt like that!!!!

Edited Friday at 19:49 by marshian

[-rick-]

@zoothorn

 

Don't go changing settings you don't need to. 46 is fine. @marshian and I may debate what is best, but what you have is plenty to get your place warm. 46 is a perfectly normal temperature for someone with radiators. 'Medium' if you like. If it was over 50 it might be an issue. Long term lower may be better but it really doesn't matter right now when you are cold.

 

Just focus on adjusting the timer.

 

Maybe as a learning exercise set yourself the task of changing the evening heat period from 2 hours to 3 hours. Change nothing else. Just extend that time from 2 to 3 hours. Once you've done that we can talk about other changes.

 

I've been busy today so will reply to the other stuff tomorrow.

[zoothorn]

8 minutes ago, marshian said:

 

Christ this is hard work - my BH user id is Marshian - You know like from another planet - oh maybe the planet Mars - my better half - Mrs "Alien" (You know like from another planet)

 

I know it's not spelt like that!!!!

Yup hard work for me too mr.marshian..

 

As I -did- get why you used your alien there.. but even so... you still haven't answered my Q. After trying three times in 3 successive posts.

 

Look, you're getting fed up. That is understandable, I profess full idiocy with regard to this HP. But look, do yourself a favour, leave it to these other kind folks? I am honestly not wanting you to get angry, & really appreaciate trying to help me. But it is perhaps complicating things just a bit further for me, yourself having gas CH. Using gas CH numbers perhaps that I cannot relate to.

 

With thanks, Zoot

[zoothorn]

@-rick-

 

I have known my HW temp is 46*C. Because I set this (so have some competency using the controller-thermostat).

 

Now you are suggesting in the prior post here, that 46 is also good for my Flow Temperature.

 

But by the same token (& I believe this to be true), you've told me that my HW setting isn't directly linked-in with my Flow temp.

 

So. Is it simply a coincidence that you now also suggest 46 as a 'decent medium setting' for my Flow temp?
 

--

 

(Matshian says it's "hard for him": chaps please bear in mind that that may well be so, but it's 10x as hard for me: I do sense Rick here understands this. Thx).

 

Zoot

 

 

[-rick-]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

So. Is it simply a coincidence that you now also suggest 46 as a 'decent medium setting' for my Flow temp?

 

I thought you had previously told us the flow temperature was set to 46. I'm not suggesting you change it. If it's something else tell us what it is.

 

In reality the best flow temp is one that varies depending on the outside temperature. It's higher when its colder and lower when its warmer outside. But that's all to complicated to worry about right now.

 

I'm trying to get you to focus on just the most important things. Everything else can be looked at in future.

[Dillsue]

17 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 (or what's the moon symbol even for?)

Someone posted a link above to the Vailant controller manual which tells you what the moon symbol means. 

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Dillsue said:

Someone posted a link above to the Vailant controller manual which tells you what the moon symbol means. 

Sorry I missed that post then, will go back.

 

I looked at my paper one for the vrc700, but says "For the competent person" on front (kinda ironically). With installer technical stuff only.

 

Seems like maybe I've never had a user one as maybe I should.

[zoothorn]

13 hours ago, -rick- said:

 

I thought you had previously told us the flow temperature was set to 46. I'm not suggesting you change it. If it's something else tell us what it is.

 

In reality the best flow temp is one that varies depending on the outside temperature. It's higher when its colder and lower when its warmer outside. But that's all to complicated to worry about right now.

 

I'm trying to get you to focus on just the most important things. Everything else can be looked at in future.

Hi Rick, no I only mentioned the HW temp. Which I set at 46.

 

So, this Flow Temp is something I need to set, or check. But if you say it varies.. ah well then maybe I just assume the installer has set it to default.

 

I don't know I'm only trying to get the basics in place, first. Ok will leave that then.
 

Fwiw I just looked on the 'Live Monitor' (idea: to see if I could confirm it's doing the HW create 1hr period 9am-10am, but nothing within the Live Indicator tells me it's active, frustratingly, so I'll never know if it's doing what it's meant to with the HW) & scrolling through a good few screens on my way (this is on the interface new box) & saw a Flow Rate & also a Flow Temp: 48 aiming for 51. 
 

I don't want to go near this box really though. I was told I shouldn't ever need to use it by installer- but very 1st thing I was asked to do by Vaillant team 3 weeks later.

[zoothorn]

Right I've had a dive into this Controller manual. Absolutely ridiculously complicated, for me for a start.

 

So, the MOON symbol, has nothing to do with night. Absurd design. It will come on anytime (within the fkn DAY) to signify Setback. I already want to throw this thing in the river.

 

Secondly, it had Zone things. Now on the face of it it's ridiculously complicated, but, it MIGHT THOUGH mean that I can designate a night zone, as a block period of time, of which I can stipulate a temp for it to get to. And I have my Setback set to 12*C (my max) & then I can also set my nightzone to 12*C too.. then that's a start. Although in colder nights if I hear any mechanical noise.. I'll put my nightzone to 8*C. Which means I'm forced to put my Setback to 8*C too.

 

So if I provisionally set my required room temp to 18*C, my Setback to 12*C, & try to create a nightzone of 12*C.

 

I can't move my controller-thermostat: there's simply nowhere else for it to go. And contrary to replies saying it's too warm in this box room/ worst place for it, being actually never warm really & having nowhere else suitable.. I think it's actually maybe the best place for it. Yes it's slightly warmer in this room, but surely I can bear this in mind with regards to the numbers I dial into it. Just pip then up, or down a bit. Whichever way- I can't think which right now.

 

Thanks Zoot

 

 

[sharpener]

I am concerned about references to flow temperature in recent posts. Normally you do not control this directly, the flow temp for radiators is set by the controller according to the Outside Air Temp - colder outside means hotter water - according to a Heating Curve which is a whole new topic in itself. Start by reading Mick Wall's excellent tutorials here 

https://energy-stats.uk/vaillant-arotherm-basic-settings. Meantime do not tamper or change this aspect as other things need to be sorted first.

 

[There are situations where you do not want the Heating Curve to apply e.g. towel rails but that is a specialist area.]

 

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Secondly, it had Zone things. Now on the face of it it's ridiculously complicated, but, it MIGHT THOUGH mean that I can designate a night zone, as a block period of time, of which I can stipulate a temp for it to get to.

No. Zones are separate geographical areas of the house. You may or may not have more than one (I suspect not).

What you are describing is a Setback period. There is no distinction between night and setback periods. You can have up to 3 Daytime temp periods in 24 hours, everything else is Setback. This can be either a defined temp (in Setback mode) or heat pump OFF (frost protection only - Eco mode).

 

As it says in the manual:

 

5.2.3 Setting time programmes

You can use the Time programmes function to set the time
periods.
If you have not set any time periods, the controller uses the
time periods set in the factory settings.

 

 

 

 

Edited 13 hours ago by sharpener

[-rick-]

5 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Rick, no I only mentioned the HW temp. Which I set at 46.

 

Ah sorry, that may have lead to some confusing conversation then.

 

5 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Ok will leave that then.

 

Good, There's too many things going on here. To repeat my view, lets keep things as simple as possible until you have the temperature of your place under control. After that we can tune things if needed.

[-rick-]

4 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Secondly, it had Zone things. Now on the face of it it's ridiculously complicated, but, it MIGHT THOUGH mean that I can designate a night zone, as a block period of time, of which I can stipulate a temp for it to get to. And I have my Setback set to 12*C (my max) & then I can also set my nightzone to 12*C too.. then that's a start. Although in colder nights if I hear any mechanical noise.. I'll put my nightzone to 8*C. Which means I'm forced to put my Setback to 8*C too.

 

So if I provisionally set my required room temp to 18*C, my Setback to 12*C, & try to create a nightzone of 12*C.

 

Please pause for a minute and reconsider this. I'm not convinced your system will work well if you set such a low set back. If you want your bedroom to be cold at night thats fine, but the rest of the house needs to be kept warmer.

 

Try to think about your bedroom seperately from the rest of the house. You can turn the radiator off in your bedroom before you go to sleep and turn it back on in the morning. At least to start with. If that works out we can improve things.

 

As to noise, now that you have replaced the previous system you shouldn't really be hearing any noise inside when the system is on. Do you?

 

4 hours ago, zoothorn said:

I can't move my controller-thermostat: there's simply nowhere else for it to go. And contrary to replies saying it's too warm in this box room/ worst place for it, being actually never warm really & having nowhere else suitable.. I think it's actually maybe the best place for it. Yes it's slightly warmer in this room, but surely I can bear this in mind with regards to the numbers I dial into it. Just pip then up, or down a bit. Whichever way- I can't think which right now.

 

If the room it's in is cold then it's better than I thought when it sounded like it was inside the cupboard with a cylinder. However, it's still not great. As your house warms up the upstairs will inevitably warm first. Yes you could set the thermostat to say 20 with the aim of getting the downstairs to 18 but I suspect given your thick walls that still won't work well.

 

You've said you don't want the controller in the sitting room. Why not? it sounds like the perfect place for it?

 

If you don't like the screen being on then I suspect theres a way to turn it off when you aren't pressing buttons. If you don't like the way it looks there's likely a way to disguise it (though it needs good airflow around it).

[-rick-]

On 27/02/2026 at 14:26, zoothorn said:

Because the cottage has these construction caveats (the plasterboard redo upstairs job just to aid one small bit of it... is a massive undertaking for me, hugely inny-outy complex, 4 windows to go around, with 4 box-affair fake wall areas to recreate. Plus I renovated both rooms in last 6 years, up to how they look now/ finished/ so a galling prospect)... even if I upped the heating, when it gets up to speed & trips off, it would then go cold again far quicker than any insulated house. Meaning it would have to be going on-off-on far more often. Meaning my heating bill won't just be bigger, it'll be hugely bigger. That's using plain logic. 

 

Yes, your bills will be higher than in a well insulated house. That's a fact. But as Nick, my mum and many others can prove uninsulated houses can be heated.

 

Right now you don't think your house is capable of being heated and I think it's important to firstly prove this wrong. Then once your house is up to temp you can work out what the bills would be do keep it warm. Once you know what it costs to heat you can work out whether it will cost less money to make improvements to lower bills vs just paying higher bills.

 

On 27/02/2026 at 14:26, zoothorn said:

This is where to me, addressing the main sittingroom floor, could only really be considered IME. I asked the latest installer (the Vaillant trained-up competent one, with his £70k electric van outside) if I did redo floor in here, could I disconnect the two big double rads, & connect the HP up to a UFH circuit here? IE a UFH 'ring' sizewise  directly similar to these two bigass double rads. Yes he said. Furthermore he said it was a decent idea, & connection to the cylinder easy, due to it being directly above/ pipe just comes straight down 2m, albeit 2x bit larger diameter copper pipes.

 

You could do this, but it's going to create a huge mess, cost a lot of money and quite possibly not save any money on running costs (make you feel warm). Better to prove the house can be heated first.

 

My guess is that the most cost effective improvements are in the upstairs rooms, but only if you run the house with minimal setback. With 2ft thick walls if you let the house go cold it will take ages and a lot of energy to warm back up again.

 

On 27/02/2026 at 14:26, zoothorn said:

I could only really consider the logistics of this renovation job, not removing all the plasterboard in 2 bedrooms above. I could try the small holes > input foam, in the perimeter. But the floor between the rooms hasn't thickness for even 1" of insulation to be introduced. 

 

I think you might be getting things mixed up here. As long as you keep the upstairs at approximately the same temp as downstairs you don't need insulation in the floor. The earlier discussion was about stopping loft air getting behind the plasterboard. I did mention the possibility of putting fluffy insulation in the floor void if it was accessible but it wasn't the main point.

 

On 27/02/2026 at 14:26, zoothorn said:

No choice- I have to have it set like so.

 

Why do you say this?

 

On 27/02/2026 at 14:26, zoothorn said:

Besides, it does clearly imply by design, that a lower setting overnight is perhaps even 'standard fayre' (or what's the moon symbol even for?).

 

A setback is very standard. But it should only be a few degrees. The bigger the difference between daytime and nighttime the less effective the heating system will be.

[zoothorn]

@sharpener That post was very kind, thanks.

 

Some things actually became slightly into focus, reading that. 
 

The Mick Wall 'easy steps' link.. is still far from easy for me though. I honestly think with everyone having smartphones, I've just not gained the ability to do these complicated menu things. Plus the terminology ontop.

 

So I'm still plodding away trying to understand the timer setting. Onward from that, the Mick Wall link is all too advanced for me.

 

@-rick- The thing that still isn't sitting well to me, or sitting at all, is the bare fact that my cottage basically has no insulation. All this Mick Wall link, the recommendations of this way/ that way, all aren't aligned, to a house with my structural inadequacies. They all basically assume & are tethered to a house with a basic ammount of insulation. No-one comes across a house like mine. The few people who've been in the house in the colder months, simply cannot believe how cold it is here (how I live like this).

 

This huge discrepancy between here, & your house/ any other  forum member's houses/ tbh any other house, means a great deal. It means my house if it does get up to a room temp within a timed heating period, will extremely quickly lose it/ drop back to setback, & fire up again. Ad nauseum, all day. And all night too by all accounts (it'll be doing the same thing, dropping below setback pronto, & firong up to try & achieve setback level).
 

So it'll be on almost constantly as a result. Day & night. Completely differently to your house, a normal house insulation ammount, whereby it'll be running almost the opposite way: it'll retain heat well, so won't be losing heat/ won't be firing up again very many times. Day & night.

 

This will inevitably lead to massive increace in my bills. Which I cannot afford. So I must make a considerable compromise, in operating it, compared to the way you would use it. To the way anyone else would. You don't have this mountain of cold your system has to battle against. 

 

I simply -have- to have my max room temp, no more than 18*C. And my setback at maximum, 14*C. And my overnight setting 10*C. If it goes off sooner becuase the thermostat is in 'the warmest, box room' (that isn't a warm room tbough, to you, to any normal house's small room).. so be it. I cannot afford to run it like Mick Wall suggests. Purely due to my massive lack of insulation.

 

So it's now just a case of trying to input these preferences, into the controller-thermostat Vrc700 box. 
 

Noise: no, you are right that in my bedroom & generally it's blissfully less noisy than before. But the small box bedroom, with all the pipes, 2 boxes, & cylinder in.. you hear the system working in there still alright. The compressor pipes emitting sound into the room when it's on. Meaning it's unuseable as a bedroom, unless you wear earplugs, if the bloody house heating is set to go dipping on-off-on-off all through overnight that is. I still just hear it in my main bedroom too: a primary reason I don't want the damn system, to be active, at night. Not a gas CH system, not a HP system. Not any CH system.
 

Thanks, Zoot

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 4 hours ago by zoothorn

[sharpener]

27 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I simply -have- to have my max room temp, no more than 18*C. And my setback at maximum, 14*C. And my overnight setting 10*C.

 

You have still misunderstood. AFAICS with the VRC 700 you cannot have 3 different temps (though you can with the 720). See the pic from the manual I posted upthread.

 

I have a barn conversion with thick stone uninsulated walls like yours. It is bigger than we need (except when we have guests) so we don't try and heat all of it all the time. The kitchen diner is heated by the AGA. The bedroom is heated first thing and last thing by the two rads, but the walls stay cold. The living room is heated by the two rads only from lunchtime until we go to bed. This is not conventional but works for us so I suggest you try it.

[zoothorn]

@-rick-I don't want the controller in the sittingroom only cos it's such a cold room. 
 

Surely too, you don't want to fix one to a silly-cold surface -ie put your hand on any old wall & it's super cold all year round. IE surely this will give an excessively low reading if sensor is inside the placcy controller box. I do have orig vertical timber beams in sittingroom, but I'll not ruin any running a white cable & placcy box on. The black 720, with a black cable, might have been possible (black beams you see).

 

What I might consider doing as a trial though, being March now, & in theory only 2 cold months left.. is set it up (if I can) more or less how you suggest, bite the bullet re.bills. But not 21*C & 18*C setback. 
 

'My trial' would be to show you, how the 3 primary rooms here cannot possibly be warmed up by anything less than 2 jet engines; even the 'get the structure up to temp over time' idea I know isn't possible in this slate stone shell sat on clay, with uninsulated crap brick extension tagged on it's North end with 2 small rads in. 'Your trial' would be to show me that it can! 
 

Thanks, Zoot
 

 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

No-one comes across a house like mine. The few people who've been in the house in the colder months, simply cannot believe how cold it is here (how I live like this).

Why do you keep disrespecting people on here with this statement???????????????????????????????????????????????

 

3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

how the 3 primary rooms here cannot possibly be warmed up by anything less than 2 jet engines

Absolute and complete fecking garbage of a statement. Just untrue, non-factual, and is now wearing people down. Stop regurgitating this nonsense as it's utterly defeatist and backed up with zero facts; by your own admission here you've not once actually heated this house, so YOU DO NOT KNOW. End of.

 

I LIVE IN THE EXACT SAME HOUSE AS YOU DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't own the only shit house in the UK OK!!!!! Get over it!!!!!

 

Read that 500 times, then go away, read it another 500 times, and then LISTEN ffs.

 

Before replying, read it all over again. And then one more time.

 

If you can't listen, and you refuse to accept these facts (not fiction or conjecture) and continue to refuse to accept said FACTS, then you are simply beyond help (and believe me, we've been trying).

 

10^oC is 5^oC warmer than a fridge you can keep meat in. Having the house at this stupidly low temp at night is just ridiculous.

 

Have a think if you actually came here for advice and help, or just for sympathy, as I am at the end of my tether with you ignoring what I have written, and all of what the multiples of others have written (in their spare time, for free, with only the very best of intentions).

 

You are a horse we are trying to lead to water..............