dpmiller Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 yeah, you'd want a nosey inside to see what variety of gears bearings and clutches are rattling around in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 47 minutes ago, Onoff said: These Peerless gearboxes often go on I'm reading until the mower deck rusts out IF driven carefully. As you've rebuilt the rusted deck, the gearbox has surpassed its expected lifespan then? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 I need to get this wheel off the axle and the orange pulley off the gearbox:I've tried MAPP gas on the pulley as per this video:No dice. I think the gearbox in the video is larger than mine. No way can I get a bit of 4x2 in there! (Pretty sure in the video he whacks his finger at about 6.10 in...ouch!)Tried a bfo gear puller on the pulley...it just started bending the pulley.Going to try supporting the pulley on solid steel bars sat on metal builders stands rather than my plastic saw horses.As for the wheel, that's equally stuck. Filled up the well with citric acid solution which has at least derusted the end of the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 13 hours ago, JFDIY said: As you've rebuilt the rusted deck, the gearbox has surpassed its expected lifespan then? ? I just don't know when to give up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 diesel with a splash of ATF would be penetrant of choice for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 1 hour ago, Onoff said: I just don't know when to give up. ha, I bought a Massey Furguson (no not my 1950 grey furgy) it’s also called a “simplicity garden tractor “, the oil seals at both wheels were leaking and found that the axle assembly was “sealed for life “ and could only be repaired in a specialist workshop. I like a challenge so dug the oil seals out and found some to match so fitted them. I could find no spec for oil or content as it was “sealed for life “ so googled the manufacturer and they were in Seattle USA so I gave them a call and spoke to a tech guy and told him I worked for Mercedes as a auto gearbox specialist ? (it makes people think you know what your doing ?) he was great and told me how to “break into the axle, amount and type of oil required. Job done ?. No such thing as sealed for life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 24 minutes ago, joe90 said: the oil seals at both wheels were leaking 25 minutes ago, joe90 said: No such thing as sealed for life. Obviously 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 I win! Finally got the pullies off both gearboxes! Heat with MAPP gas, rub a candle over the shaft and the wax gets sucked in. Beat it with a bfo knocking stick and punch. Repeat. Pretty sure having it all on the sturdier trestles / angle iron helped. Exactly as the lad showed on YouTube tbh. The orange, better looking pulley took two evenings. The rusty as Hell pulley on the new gearbox about 2 minutes! Pullies degreased and in the citric acid bath to derust now. Still got to do the wheel ? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 The wheel still refuses to budge. Time to admit defeat and take a trip to use the neighbours oxy I think! Took the gearbox shield out of the citric acid bath along with the bolts and gave them a quick coat of zinc and in the case of the guard some VW Brilliant Orange. What original paint wouldn't come off.....stayed on there. Not going for concours! Yes I know the match is way off, yes I know I should have picked a Ford colour! ? I salvaged the fixings as they're odd sizes to what I usually play with (UNC). They'll get lubed before fitting. Started sand blasting the gearbox but had very little medium to start with. It's got promise, just look at the two halves on the gearbox lever! I'm not prepared to use ordinary sand either, don't want silicosis! Compare bolts left (blasted) and right (untouched): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 but why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 is there a justgiving page available? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 On 18/05/2020 at 10:31, Onoff said: Right then, who knows anything about Bentonite clay based grease? It is what was apparently specified originally in these Peerless transmissions. You'd like to think the designers knew their stuff but they might have just spec'd as it was their goto lube! The question is can it be replaced by something else? Thinking soap based open gear grease. Google says it a high temperature grease that's more waterproof. Seems you can get it... https://www.gardentractorspares.co.uk/peerless-gearboxes-8001/801-gearbox-parts/greases-and-lubricants Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) On 18/05/2020 at 10:31, Onoff said: Right then, who knows anything about Bentonite clay based grease? It is what was apparently specified originally in these Peerless transmissions. You'd like to think the designers knew their stuff but they might have just spec'd as it was their goto lube! The question is can it be replaced by something else? Thinking soap based open gear grease. Google says it a high temperature grease that's more waterproof. Seems you can get it but as you say, it's expensive. https://www.gardentractorspares.co.uk/peerless-gearboxes-8001/801-gearbox-parts/greases-and-lubricants Edited May 21, 2020 by Temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Caution, can't mix bentonite and soap based grease according to.. https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B001OKBHRK Q: Is 00 grease compatible with bentonite grease used on peerless walk benhine mower transmission? A: No, 00 grease is a soap based grease and Bentonite is a clay based grease. 00 can be used if transmission is disassembled and flushed out so no Bentonite grease is left otherwise incompatibility will result in transmission failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 As I've run out of blast medium here I asked and was quoted locally, £50 to soda blast his piddly little gearbox. FFS! So I approached the shot blasting and painting outfit that the first company I worked for in 1983 used to used to paint our machines. Chap down there will do me a 25kg bag of crushed glass shot shotblast media for £20. I'm going to take 2. Should have thought of them first! Off topic I know but back in 2016 I had them shot blast, zinc flame spray and 2 pack paint the astronomy pier I designed and built for my brother: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 Got the donor gearbox on the mower. She runs. All gears working though took a while to adjust the selector rods/linkage. It even cuts grass. Only to find one of the pto pullies had seized and the belt worn a groove in it. Thus the flails won't turn for the grass collection end. £24+VAT plus postage for a new one. Buy new, I think not! Went back to the scrap mowers and salvaged the same tensioner pulley albeit of all metal construction. Guessing an older variant. Rusted solid and then some. Some chipping off of the large lumps of rust then into the citric acid barrel for two days. Managed to get it all apart just now, some more chipping and scraping and back in the barrel for a final 24hr dip. It's salvageable. Bushed rather than a bearing. A bit of zinc spray and packing with grease and it'll be good to go. You should have seen it before it went in the acid! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Bugger! It's a bearing not a bush. Just out of the acid and what I thought was resilient material around the bush is in fact the blown seal of the bearing. More obvious the other side where thd seal is more intact. Pulley is two halves spot welded together. You can just see one of the 3 spots under the pen tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 drill the welds out, new bearing, a few MIG spots, done. /except it's probably some wierd Imperial size that'll cost as much as a new pulley... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 36 minutes ago, dpmiller said: drill the welds out, new bearing, a few MIG spots, done. /except it's probably some wierd Imperial size that'll cost as much as a new pulley... NSK 6203DU so nothing special. The two halves will need another dip before painting. Off to sort through the bearing box... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 that was lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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