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Shower, tray, tiles, and all the rest...


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Well SWMBO has approved the design change- 1500 tray, valve on the wall opposite the riser, and a wee shelf for shampoo (that probably swung it :D)

I guess I could build the box out in PB, seeing as that's what all the walls are anyway, but it doesn't seem right for some reason. Is there any rational reason to do it in ply?

 

Oh and I appear to have found a tray and screen- £200 plus half that again for postage, ouch. Still much cheaper than anywhere that I can pick up from in Inverness.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walk-In-Shower-Screen-Enclosure-and-Tray-Wet-Room-Cubicle-8mm-Easy-Clean-Glass-/282411062632?var=&epid=708886223&hash=item41c102d568:m:mzLESPAgPrt9ylmB_Y6_2KA

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On to the next question...

 

Where can I find a riser rail that has the water feed running inside it, down from the ceiling? And are these difficult/expensive to find? I like the idea of one because it will be much easier to get access in the ceiling than in the wall- but not worth paying a big premium for. So far I've hardly found any for sale of this type, and they're all really expensive.

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2 hours ago, Crofter said:

Well SWMBO has approved the design change- 1500 tray, valve on the wall opposite the riser, and a wee shelf for shampoo (that probably swung it :D)

I guess I could build the box out in PB, seeing as that's what all the walls are anyway, but it doesn't seem right for some reason. Is there any rational reason to do it in ply?

 

Oh and I appear to have found a tray and screen- £200 plus half that again for postage, ouch. Still much cheaper than anywhere that I can pick up from in Inverness.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walk-In-Shower-Screen-Enclosure-and-Tray-Wet-Room-Cubicle-8mm-Easy-Clean-Glass-/282411062632?var=&epid=708886223&hash=item41c102d568:m:mzLESPAgPrt9ylmB_Y6_2KA

 

Let us know how you get on. Ebay seller bookmarked for future use (unless you tell us the service or product was rubbish)

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Any last thoughts on screen size before I click the button? I think the two sensible options are 800 or 900. Tradeoff between splashing out into the room, and elbow room getting in and out. Bearing in mind this isn't (supposed to be) a wetroom...

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3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just spotted that you've gone 1500 with the tray and not 1600 :/. Why ?

 

Keep up at the back!

Having identified the standard try sizes, the room was built to 1600, and then PB'd and skimmed. Whatever idiot designed/built it cannot do basic arithmetic.

So I'm going for a 1500 tray and a little box out which will make a shampoo shelf.

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Ah, sorry. The box out is at the very end. My bad, heads up my ar$e at the mo with 3 deadlines converging. "Take me now, Lord". ?

5 hours ago, Crofter said:

 

Any last thoughts on screen size before I click the button

 

900mm minimum. Don't do 800mm, you'll regret it. ?

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4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

900mm minimum. Don't do 800mm, you'll regret it. ?

 

That will leave a 600mm gap to get in and out of the shower- slightly wider above the box-out. I guess that's OK but I'd better make sure I don't have any people of the, erm, larger persuasion.

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2 minutes ago, Crofter said:

 

That will leave a 600mm gap to get in and out of the shower- slightly wider above the box-out. I guess that's OK but I'd better make sure I don't have any people of the, erm, larger persuasion.

 

Yeh just check you don't get any pie eating lardy Welsh plumbers hiring it out....

 

Are you tanking the new shelf support thing ..? And do you have access to the pipework from the back as that makes life much easier ..!

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13 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Yeh just check you don't get any pie eating lardy Welsh plumbers hiring it out....

 

Are you tanking the new shelf support thing ..? And do you have access to the pipework from the back as that makes life much easier ..!

Yeah probably best to tank it, like the rest of the walls.

No access at the back though. This is all a bit of a last minute kerfuffle. I wonder if I could engineer some sort of removable panel in the side of the boxout? That bit shouldn't see too much water.

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1 hour ago, Crofter said:

 

That will leave a 600mm gap to get in and out of the shower- slightly wider above the box-out. I guess that's OK but I'd better make sure I don't have any people of the, erm, larger persuasion.

600mm will allow even the chubbiest cake-lover to get in. That's not a small opening, trust me. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Urgh. After a couple of weeks away from the build, I've come back to this and the eBay seller had changed their listing so that instead of £99 delivery to Islands, it was now £49 delivery to Highland (mainland). Not a huge problem, I save a chunk of money but have to call in a favour from the inlaws. Go to click 'buy' and it says sorry we don't deliver to Highland.

Sometimes you spend longer looking for someone who will deliver than you do just finding a supplier in the first place. But you get used to it... still frustrating though.

 

 

Anyway, on a different topic...

 

I need to connect the basin to the waste pipe, which is a 40mm solvent weld pipe. I have a vague memory of difficulties in compatibility between different waste pipe systems. I presume the easiest thing is to do it all in 32mm with an adapter where it meets the pipe coming up out of the floor. Should I do everything in solvent weld? Are the anti-glug traps worth having? I'm sure @Nickfromwales recommended one to me before but I can't find the thread.

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Oh and another little niggle.

The combined WC/basin unit (I went for a cheapie from Soak.com, oak effect, and so far it seems fine for the price. Don't know how long the foil will stay on...) has a slight overhang on the basin, which is to be butted up against the wall. So I need to fill the gap that this creates- it's about 30mm I would say.

How would you chaps go about this? I'm thinking I could just fire in a little bit of softwood painted to match the wall... or try sourcing a piece of foiled MDF to match the unit, which would look better, if it is a close enough match. Or even butcher the unit and steal a bit off the back, but I'd rather not go down that route.

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Slicing the rear reveal off would be what I'd do. Perfect match, it's already there, and all you have to do is varnish the open cut edge at the rear and it's good as new. 

No brainer for me, just remember to cut off slightly more than you need so you can plane it so the saw cut / marks aren't visible. 

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1 minute ago, Crofter said:

Thanks- will standard solvent weld fit straight into the compression fitting of that trap, then?

Yup. 32mm solvent weld straight into that compression nut. Make sure the black rubber cone washer is the right way around, eg narrow taper into the trap. 

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Just now, Nickfromwales said:

Slicing the rear reveal off would be what I'd do. Perfect match, it's already there, and all you have to do is varnish the open cut edge at the rear and it's good as new. 

No brainer for me, just remember to cut off slightly more than you need so you can plane it so the saw cut / marks aren't visible. 

 

Cool. I thought it might be a daft idea

Oh and sorry I appear to have deleted one of your duplicate posts, and you must have simultaneously deleted the other one :D Too many mods in this thread...

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