When to compriband

[eandg]

Window installer suggested we should apply Compriband in advance of bricks being laid - brickie should then compress if needed. However this video suggests it should/could be retrofitted.

 

 

Also, is it just the same process for timber cladding?

[Mr Punter]

The brickwork will make a real mess of the compriband.  It will expand really wide and the bricklayer will not have an edge to work to. Stupid idea.  Just get the brickwork and window in and compriband the gap.

[eandg]

14 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

The brickwork will make a real mess of the compriband.  It will expand really wide and the bricklayer will not have an edge to work to. Stupid idea.  Just get the brickwork and window in and compriband the gap.

Sounds much more straightforward, thanks. 

 

Anyone experience of compribanding openings to timber cladding?

[Mr Punter]

1 hour ago, eandg said:

Anyone experience of compribanding openings to timber cladding?

 

I have done it where we run the timber down the reveals then compriband the gap.  Window width needs to be opening width minus 2 x cladding minus 20mm (2 x 10mm compriband).

[andyscotland]

1 hour ago, eandg said:

Anyone experience of compribanding openings to timber cladding?

 

Are your windows actually in line with the cladding?

 

I think more common is the windows are set back a bit in line with the structural opening (and the insulation), behind the line of the cladding battens.

 

Then you can just compriband between the window and the opening, and if you like put a thin piece of timber to line the reveal and cover the compriband. That's what I did.

 

[BadgerBadger]

54 minutes ago, andyscotland said:

Then you can just compriband between the window and the opening, and if you like put a thin piece of timber to line the reveal and cover the compriband. That's what I did.

 

 

We're looking to do something very similar - but if the compriband is covered by the cladding edge strip, what's the advantage vs simple mastic sealant if its covered over anyway?

[Miek]

1 hour ago, BadgerBadger said:

 

We're looking to do something very similar - but if the compriband is covered by the cladding edge strip, what's the advantage vs simple mastic sealant if its covered over anyway?

It's better than 'mastic' or silicone. Lasts longer , has a very wide range of movement, and is breathable. 

[eandg]

2 hours ago, andyscotland said:

 

Are your windows actually in line with the cladding?

 

I think more common is the windows are set back a bit in line with the structural opening (and the insulation), behind the line of the cladding battens.

 

Then you can just compriband between the window and the opening, and if you like put a thin piece of timber to line the reveal and cover the compriband. That's what I did.

 

Set back - board on board cladding, 10mm will sit against the edge of the window with 12-34mm proud of it. Was intending to put the Compriband between window and the reveal. 

[Mr Punter]

Compriband is a good product for timber as you don't get cracks appearing where materials shrink and silicone cracks.

[Marv968]

6 minutes ago, Miek said:

It's better than 'mastic' or silicone. Lasts longer , has a very wide range of movement, and is breathable. 

Also, another big one is that the U value of silicone is around 2.6 W/m2K, whereas Compriband or similar is around 0.048 W/m2K, which is substantially better.

I'm not sure how you'd apply Compriband before the bricks a laid?. From when I've been looking into it on the house I'm building, it's either stuck onto the frame of the window just before installation, or pushed in after the window is installed.

[eandg]

35 minutes ago, Marv968 said:

Also, another big one is that the U value of silicone is around 2.6 W/m2K, whereas Compriband or similar is around 0.048 W/m2K, which is substantially better.

I'm not sure how you'd apply Compriband before the bricks a laid?. From when I've been looking into it on the house I'm building, it's either stuck onto the frame of the window just before installation, or pushed in after the window is installed.

Windows already in and secured to kit, facing bricks laid around them. 

[craig]

When the windows are being installed. It needs to expand against the wall, not have something compress the compriband.

 

Sorry for being blunt but your installers an idiot and just doesn’t want to do it.

Edited January 30, 2023 by craig

[Nickfromwales]

9 minutes ago, craig said:

Sorry for being blunt but your installers an idiot and just doesn’t want to do it.

+1.

[andyscotland]

1 hour ago, eandg said:

Set back - board on board cladding, 10mm will sit against the edge of the window with 12-34mm proud of it. Was intending to put the Compriband between window and the reveal. 

 

As @Mieksaid, better flexibility & movement and especially if covered by the reveal you want something essentially maintenance free.

 

I went with reveal against window (with a few mm expansion / shadow gap) for a few reasons:

 

* To my untrained mind it felt more like a Scottish "check reveal" with an extra layer of resistance to weather, though I think compriband is pretty bulletproof either way.

 

* Visually it reduces the number of materials at the junction - you just see timber reveal & window frames, no visible sealant/compriband line which I thought was more attractive. Especially if there's any risk of tolerance gap being uneven/not exactly square/not exactly centred (I'm realistic about my woodbutchering skills 🤣) because that gap is hidden so you can finesse & pack the cladding batten/reveal liner a little bit as required.

 

* My hunch was the cladding might need maintenance sooner than the windows & doors, especially around sill area, so useful if the reveal liner is just a cover plate that can come off rather than trapped between window & wall.

 

* Things here happen veeeeery slowly, my way let me get windows into the structural opening, compriband & foam so fully weathertight and then faff about with cladding & reveals later.

 

Of course if you have some brick & some timber you may want the visible joint at the reveal for consistency. I've seen plenty done like that so I don't think there's anything wrong with it per se.

[eandg]

22 minutes ago, andyscotland said:

 

As @Mieksaid, better flexibility & movement and especially if covered by the reveal you want something essentially maintenance free.

 

I went with reveal against window (with a few mm expansion / shadow gap) for a few reasons:

 

* To my untrained mind it felt more like a Scottish "check reveal" with an extra layer of resistance to weather, though I think compriband is pretty bulletproof either way.

 

* Visually it reduces the number of materials at the junction - you just see timber reveal & window frames, no visible sealant/compriband line which I thought was more attractive. Especially if there's any risk of tolerance gap being uneven/not exactly square/not exactly centred (I'm realistic about my woodbutchering skills 🤣) because that gap is hidden so you can finesse & pack the cladding batten/reveal liner a little bit as required.

 

* My hunch was the cladding might need maintenance sooner than the windows & doors, especially around sill area, so useful if the reveal liner is just a cover plate that can come off rather than trapped between window & wall.

 

* Things here happen veeeeery slowly, my way let me get windows into the structural opening, compriband & foam so fully weathertight and then faff about with cladding & reveals later.

 

Of course if you have some brick & some timber you may want the visible joint at the reveal for consistency. I've seen plenty done like that so I don't think there's anything wrong with it per se.

Thanks for the full response - so is your reveal butted against the windows/doors and the compriband then hidden behind them and against cladding? Can't picture it but my visualisation will be a helluva lot worse than your woodbutchering. 

[eandg]

1 hour ago, craig said:

When the windows are being installed. It needs to expand against the wall, not have something compress the compriband.

 

Sorry for being blunt but your installers an idiot and just doesn’t want to do it.

 

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

+1.

So if not as in the YouTube video then how should it be done? Windows are already in. 

[Nickfromwales]

8 hours ago, eandg said:

 

So if not as in the YouTube video then how should it be done? Windows are already in. 

Dead simple. As you say, it just gets retrofitted.

It gets inserted into the correct sized gap and ‘works it’s magic’ from there. Your brickie will need to be very meticulous when running  / returning the brickwork and they need to leave you the correct, continuous gapping to allow this retrofit. 

[andyscotland]

10 hours ago, eandg said:

Thanks for the full response - so is your reveal butted against the windows/doors and the compriband then hidden behind them and against cladding? Can't picture it but my visualisation will be a helluva lot worse than your woodbutchering. 

 

Mine is like this quick & dirty sketch (no CAD on this machine 🤣)

 

End result looks like this:

[Thorfun]

3 hours ago, andyscotland said:

 

Mine is like this quick & dirty sketch (no CAD on this machine 🤣)

 

same as ours

[eandg]

4 hours ago, andyscotland said:

 

Mine is like this quick & dirty sketch (no CAD on this machine 🤣)

 

End result looks like this:

Looks great. I normally do quick and dirty but just confirming I'm following that sketch correctly - layer of foam behind the compriband then effectively cap and hide it with the reveal?

[andyscotland]

2 hours ago, eandg said:

Looks great. I normally do quick and dirty but just confirming I'm following that sketch correctly - layer of foam behind the compriband then effectively cap and hide it with the reveal?

 

Exactly.

 

I didn't draw the inside but basically the same thing, airtightness tape from the door/window frame to the VCL and then a piece of insulated plasterboard to cap the expanding foam & line the reveal on that side.

 

Obviously this detail wouldn't work with very thin-profile frames - I was actually cutting it a bit fine with the door hinges on mine as you can see in the photo, but there was just enough space.

[craig]

On 31/01/2023 at 09:45, andyscotland said:

 

Mine is like this quick & dirty sketch (no CAD on this machine 🤣)

 

End result looks like this:

 

That's in, pretty straight forward and not overly complicated. 

[andyscotland]

1 hour ago, craig said:

That's in, pretty straight forward and not overly complicated. 

 

I saw the notification you'd quoted me and worried I'd done it wrong 🤣 good to have competent sign-off, thanks 😉

[eandg]

On 31/01/2023 at 08:08, Nickfromwales said:

Dead simple. As you say, it just gets retrofitted.

It gets inserted into the correct sized gap and ‘works it’s magic’ from there. Your brickie will need to be very meticulous when running  / returning the brickwork and they need to leave you the correct, continuous gapping to allow this retrofit. 

Thanks - so question is whether 10mm gap would be too tight now to get the compriband (I have the 7/12mm stuff) in?

[Gone West]

1 hour ago, eandg said:

Thanks - so question is whether 10mm gap would be too tight now to get the compriband (I have the 7/12mm stuff) in?

I've done that without problem. Best done when the weather is cold so it doesn't expand too quickly. I have heard that putting the Compriband in the fridge before doing it, helps, but I've not done that.