Jump to content

Attaching timber plates to steelwork


PeterW

Recommended Posts

Can anyone point me at the latest wisdom on attaching timber roof plates to steel beams ..?

 

We have two purlins that have the rafters up against them and I was expecting a small birdsmouth on each to slot onto the top plate attached to the RSJ. 

 

Previously I've used a spit/Hilti gun to pin them to the top webs however I've been told that's no longer the correct approach ... So I am assuming it's drill and Coach bolt but is that correct and what spacing ..? 

 

SE can't help as he just did the steel sizings and doesn't do domestic work anyway. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said:

The pilot drill size is critical Pete. Got it wrong once and the roof (lean-to) got wrenched off. There might be guidance somewhere about the correct pilot hole size.....

Deffo. 

Tbh, you just undersize by 1.5-2mm and the self cutting tip is the right size for the final pilot ;)

Used these to put steel tubular stairs and handcrails in an ind unit. Worked a dream. 

It won't hurt to put a bead of summat but if you can fix both sides it'll go nowhere. 

Do you need SE spec for the thickness of the fixings for BC approval?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, jamiehamy said:

I used a magnetic drill and put through M12 coach bolts with washers. Bit footery but ain't going anywhere. 

2015-12-23-1359[1].jpg

 

You could have gone totally OTT and  used spring washers or nyloc nuts.

 

I trust you're not going to leave the fixings in primer and colour match to the beam?

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

You could have gone totally OTT and  used spring washers or nyloc nuts.

 

I trust you're not going to leave the fixings in primer and colour match to the beam?

 

:)

I'm just demolishing a 1935vintage timber frame bungalow and none of the steel lintels or the nuts and bolts were painted and they only have light surface rust. The nuts were finger tight and all unscrewed using finger force only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Triassic said:

I'm just demolishing a 1935vintage timber frame bungalow and none of the steel lintels or the nuts and bolts were painted and they only have light surface rust. The nuts were finger tight and all unscrewed using finger force only.

 

Old school steel! I recently went and got a freebie 10'x12' pent roof timber shed (should have said no). Wouldn't take much to repair tbh.

 

Made umpteen years ago with a diddy brass makers plate on it. The 4 sides are held together with just 8 (3/8"?) bolts and they all came apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...