Pocster Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 (expletive deleted) wits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 So you guys that have done a manifold radial system for hot and cold feeds how did you approach the pipe through the plantroom ceiling ? plasterboard ceiling above the manifold then drill appropriate size hole for each pipe and pull the pipe through ? or just leave a gap for the pipes to go through ? Pics of ceiling would be great if anyone has one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 2 hours ago, Chanmenie said: So you guys that have done a manifold radial system for hot and cold feeds how did you approach the pipe through the plantroom ceiling ? plasterboard ceiling above the manifold then drill appropriate size hole for each pipe and pull the pipe through ? or just leave a gap for the pipes to go through ? Pics of ceiling would be great if anyone has one For plant room to floor above I hammered a big hole in the beam and block . Then foamed in 110mm soil pipe into it . Hep2o pipe work fed through that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 4 hours ago, Chanmenie said: So you guys that have done a manifold radial system for hot and cold feeds how did you approach the pipe through the plantroom ceiling ? plasterboard ceiling above the manifold then drill appropriate size hole for each pipe and pull the pipe through ? or just leave a gap for the pipes to go through ? Pics of ceiling would be great if anyone has one 2 hours ago, Pocster said: For plant room to floor above I hammered a big hole in the beam and block . Then foamed in 110mm soil pipe into it . Hep2o pipe work fed through that . same as @Pocster but didn't foam. our plant room is in the basement so basically everything pretty much goes up! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 1 hour ago, Thorfun said: same as @Pocster but didn't foam. our plant room is in the basement so basically everything pretty much goes up! I only foamed to hold the 110mm in place - not necessarily of course . But as a pro - that’s what I do ( big balls emoji ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 My plantroom is a big cupboard at the back of the study, so ideally need it to look neat. might go with the plasterboard with holes drilled idea. Be fiddly but should work ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Laslett Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Just for people’s general reference the Hep20 FAQs warns against using expanding foam to seal around the actual Hep20 plastic pipe. I think it invalidates the 50 year guarantee. Not sure what the expanding foam actually does to Hep pipe, but Wavin don’t like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 4 minutes ago, Nick Laslett said: Just for people’s general reference the Hep20 FAQs warns against using expanding foam to seal around the actual Hep20 plastic pipe. I think it invalidates the 50 year guarantee. Not sure what the expanding foam actually does to Hep pipe, but Wavin don’t like it. No issue for @Pocster as he won’t even be finished before the 50yr warranty expires. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 9 hours ago, Nick Laslett said: Just for people’s general reference the Hep20 FAQs warns against using expanding foam to seal around the actual Hep20 plastic pipe. I think it invalidates the 50 year guarantee. Not sure what the expanding foam actually does to Hep pipe, but Wavin don’t like it. Yeah I didn’t foam around the hep20 . I foamed around the 110mm pipe . The hep2o’s move freely through the pipe . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 On 23/01/2024 at 21:59, Thorfun said: Yeah, sounds like that’s right out of @Nickfromwales’s playbook! was just curious if anyone had gone the foam sheet route and had any feedback. Yup. Makes the pan move about, and leaves a bigger gap to cosmetically seal around. Looks shart IMHO, and you'll defo notice how easy it is for the pan to be moved. "Don't do it".... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 On 28/01/2024 at 21:38, Chanmenie said: My plantroom is a big cupboard at the back of the study, so ideally need it to look neat. might go with the plasterboard with holes drilled idea. Be fiddly but should work ok Do NOT allow the hep to drag along the cut board, as these linear scratches are #1 cause of leaking joints. Can you install sleeves of 21.5mm overflow pipe in, and then slide the hep through them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 On 28/01/2024 at 21:59, Nick Laslett said: Just for people’s general reference the Hep20 FAQs warns against using expanding foam to seal around the actual Hep20 plastic pipe. I think it invalidates the 50 year guarantee. Not sure what the expanding foam actually does to Hep pipe, but Wavin don’t like it. I foam in sleeves made from 25mm flexible conduit, and then pull the pipes through them. If that needs to be sealed up, squirt some CT1 around the pipe where it exits the sleeve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Do NOT allow the hep to drag along the cut board, as these linear scratches are #1 cause of leaking joints. Can you install sleeves of 21.5mm overflow pipe in, and then slide the hep through them? Good advice thanks @Nickfromwales as I’m counter battening the ceiling I might just fit all the pipes then batten up to the pipes and plasterboard, the gap will only be small and probably not really noticeable, seems like an easier option 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 14 hours ago, Chanmenie said: Good advice thanks @Nickfromwales as I’m counter battening the ceiling I might just fit all the pipes then batten up to the pipes and plasterboard, the gap will only be small and probably not really noticeable, seems like an easier option If the bends are tight, you may still want to install a conduit for the duration of the bend only, to alleviate any sounds from 'creep' where the pipe expands when suddenly heated. If very tight, just install a 90o bend and play safe. Avoiding joints is great, but having to install some and knowing where they are is plenty good enough. Hep joints are bombproof, fear ye' not.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: If the bends are tight, you may still want to install a conduit for the duration of the bend only, to alleviate any sounds from 'creep' where the pipe expands when suddenly heated. If very tight, just install a 90o bend and play safe. Avoiding joints is great, but having to install some and knowing where they are is plenty good enough. Hep joints are bombproof, fear ye' not.... I’ve got lots of room my joists are 9” plus the counter battens so should not need any tight bends. Where they will go up the plantroom wall they will be between 2 joists so I can gently arc them then clip to noggins 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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